paul.h

Welcome to the forum, a bit more info is needed. Is the noise from the outside or inside of the car and is it from the front or the back and which side of the car ? What are you pushing that makes the noise ? Does it make the noise when going over bumps or when turning ? Possibilites can include a suspension joint, an anti roll bar drop link, loose exhaust, seat belt stalk, steering column bearing, loose bits in the dash, door hinge or strap needing oiling, etc.

Welcome to the forum. I am guessing you have a 2002 to 2009 C3 with the 1.4 petrol engine. If so there are 2 temperature sensors at the gearbox end of the cylinder head, one on the top and one on the side. The top one does the gauge and fan and the side one does a high temperature alarm at 118°C and the fan. The fan should start at 96°C on low speed and cut out when it drops to 94°C. If the temp continues to rise the fan will go to its high speed. The fan also runs if the air con is switched on. The thermostat should start to open at 89°C. Is the gauge showing a high temp - on our 2003 C3 3 bars would be a range of about 80 to at least 96°C. The Haynes manual wiring diagrams show with air conditioning the fan has a control unit as part of it and not a relay (as for fans without air con) with 2 supplies from the engine control unit. It also has a 12 volt battery supply from maxi fuse MF1 in the engine fusebox, an earth and a combined fused and relay supply from the engine fusebox fuse F8. I would check the wiring and connections on the fan for any damage/bad connections (Haynes shows 2 connectors at the top of the fan shroud) but if nothing is found you may possibly need a new fan control unit.

If one of the turbo impeller vanes is damaged then maybe it could make the noise. You could remove the turbo inlet and have a look for any damage. Lack of oil flow is probably not the problem since if this happened for a short time (never mind several months) the bearings would rapidly wear and the turbo could destroy itself. The initial symptoms of worn bearings could be a smokey exhaust on starting and when accelerating but when it got bad the car would be surrounded by smoke from the exhaust - based on my experience on a petrol car when the turbo failed. The posts in this link discuss turbo noises http://audisrs.com/archive/what-causes-turbo-whine__o_t__t_4888.html

That is the idea to remove the motors and turning the star shape by hand. By motor shaft I meant the star shape on the motor. In one of the links from above http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21119-c5-2002-aircon/ , citrophile explains what needs to be done.

Welcome to the forum. I can not help much but possibly you could try with the phone on a mains charger (if this is possible when connected to the car) with the car parked at home and try all the functions to see if its battery still goes down - if so it is a phone problem rather than a car problem.

The other how tos would be good. There are already some on fixes for the heater flaps and yours will help add to them - there are links to these on the Common Problems topic on heater problems which may help you.

From old posts it must be about 4 years since you first posted about the remote not working - so your persistance has finally paid off and there was no need to give Citroen a large pile of cash. I will edit the title a bit to reflect repairing your remote since it gives hope to others and I have included it in the Common Problems topic.

Did you need to do anything to get the compression back ? If you remove the dpf to fit the joint you may want to clean it, some people water jet them to remove the ash and there may be other ways to clean them.

Welcome to the forum. There is also the Picasso forum which may interest you. I would check with a dealer if your guarantee is valid in France. http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/

Welcome to the forum. It is supposed to be in the boot, possibly the right side with the aerial wires going to it but I am not certain.

Possibly the motors are ok but if a flap has broken from the motor shaft then maybe the flap has moved to a position that blocks the air flow. If you remove the motors you could try moving a flap by hand to see if the air flow increases. With the pollen filter out you could use a mirror/torch and see if the evaporator matrix is blocked with leaves or possibly mould (does the air con smell just after stopping the air con but keeping the blower on ?). Every year or so I disinfect the evaporator matrix to remove the mould by using a garden spray and lance kept just for this purpose and spraying it with Dettol non bleach anti bacterial surface cleanser https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dettol+surface+cleanser&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=ZjAUA8tiGYyh3M%253A%253BaO_n7OTipV7PvM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.poundland.co.uk%25252Fdettol-surface-cleaner-440ml&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ZjAUA8tiGYyh3M%253A%252CaO_n7OTipV7PvM%252C_&biw=1138&bih=835&usg=__SnZwml5YDd3h1M_ZN1UXd1tYNKY%3D&ved=0CGQQyjc&ei=fg-MVYayC4qdsgHe1aHACQ#imgrc=ZjAUA8tiGYyh3M%253A%3BaO_n7OTipV7PvM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.poundland.co.uk%252Fmedia%252Fcatalog%252Fproduct%252Fcache%252F1%252Fimage%252F370x%252F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%252F7%252F4%252F74139_2.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.poundland.co.uk%252Fdettol-surface-cleaner-440ml%3B370%3B370&usg=__SnZwml5YDd3h1M_ZN1UXd1tYNKY%3D

Thankyou for getting back to us and well done for your persistence and fixing your car. I have edited the title slightly to include 'pinking' noise to help avoid confusion.

You could be right, on our 2003 C3 when I replaced the key case the pcb and the immobilser transponder chip were separate parts to move in to the new ebay sourced case. If you do separate them, beware of overheating and damaging the bits, also in case you want to refit the old bits back together if it turns out the remote was not the faulty bit. You may have already done this but if not, have a look at the pcb in case there is some damage/faulty soldering/maybe a switch has come unsoldered (something read in a search). If you do end up at Citroen, it may be worth getting them to confirm the remote is the fault before you order one. There may also be car locksmiths who would do this as well as provide a new remote.

Front ones always seem a bit warmer than the rears so may be normal. Next time you are in a car park have a look at some other cars for a comparison.

Welcome to the forum. Does it look as if part of the back of the seal is broken off - if so a new one is only about £5, Citroen part no. 6439J6 (check using your VIN), called a wiring sheath. If not, often rubber grommets are easier to push into place if a bit of washing up liquid is put on them

Welcome to the forum. I suspect you did not use a Citroen dealer to fix your car and that if you had you may not have the current problems. Citroen use different part numbers to those that may be on the parts by the manufacturer so looking at the fusebox may not help. You can see the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site and use your VIN (VIS) in the top left to find your car. Register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres The fuse boxes come under Electric Unit / General Points / Units, connector boards, kits. The remote may just need resynchronising to the car and this is detailed in the handbook for when its battery has been replaced and is noted below but if this does not work the keys may need initialising to the car using diagnostic equipment. To get the car to stay in miles and English if it does not do this when set via the radio menu, it may need a diagnostic to set this. I doubt that you need to replace any fuse boxes and would be tempted to not use that mechanic again. If you look in the engine fuse box you will see that the fuses can be replaced and your handbook lists them. If you do not have the handbook these can also be seen/printed/copied from the service.citroen site under Handbooks (or documentation de bord if you do not chenge the language to English). 4. Synchronise the high frequency remote controlsPerform the following operations :1 - Switch off the ignition and take out the key2 - Wait 1 minute without pressing the buttons of any remote control3 - Place the key of the high frequency remote control to be synchronised in position "ignition+"4 - Within 10 seconds, press the locking button for 5 seconds5 - Switch off the ignition and take out the key6 - Repeat the procedure with the other keys from point N°3, otherwise move on to point N°77 - Wait 30 seconds, the remote controls are synchronisedCarry out a locking / unlocking test of the vehicle’s doors and tailgate.N.B. : If the test for locking/unlocking of doors and tailgate is not correct, recommence the synchronisation operations for all the ignition keys that have a high frequency remote control.

Must have just been a coincidence that the warning started after replacing the rear pads plus it must make you think how well the fronts were checked at the service to suggest you could do another 2 years/20k miles to the next service (or less depending on the year/engine). I have altered the topic title slightly to help when searching.

Does this mean it is the service indicator and the car is overdue a service ?

Have a look in the boot and see how much oil is in there. In Citroen's procedures for just replacing the boot, you are supposed to put a bit of grease inside it but not any oil, so if it is just a tiny amount you could put off replacing the rack and just do the boot (maybe rotate the boot 180° and put sealant on the hole). The Common Problems topic on the leaking racks includes links to other posts where recon racks have been fitted.

You could always ask them to not cut the key and put the pcb in your old case, but I think they are ordered to match your car complete with the cut key and transponder. This way you will also end up with a spare key which I suspect you do not have.

If a brake is binding you may notice the wheel hub area is warmer than normal after a run.

If the gaiter is filling up with oil then the seals inside the rack are probably leaking. I had this on a Saab where the seals at both ends of the rack failed and the oil came out of the gaiters. This I suspect was caused by the previous owner using the wrong steering fluid since it was the wrong colour. It needed a replacement rack which was covered by the warranty. Check that the oil dripping off is the same as the steering oil by colour/smell - since you have hydractive suspension it will be lds fluid which is slightly orange in colour (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lds+fluid&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=BxUkrGfQbksrIM%253A%253BsttVYMHG513AIM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.gsfcarparts.com%25252F980aa0720&source=iu&pf=m&fir=BxUkrGfQbksrIM%253A%252CsttVYMHG513AIM%252C_&biw=1138&bih=842&usg=__m0DP6Iq8eec4Iv02HafMlLdbWD4%3D&ved=0CDYQyjc&ei=SbqKVd6uBKPR7QaBrKu4Ag#imgrc=BxUkrGfQbksrIM%253A%3BsttVYMHG513AIM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.gsfcarparts.com%252Fmedia%252Fcatalog%252Fproduct%252Fcache%252F1%252Fimage%252F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%252F9%252F8%252F980aa0720.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.gsfcarparts.com%252F980aa0720%3B400%3B400&usg=__m0DP6Iq8eec4Iv02HafMlLdbWD4%3D ). You could always replace the gaiter with a new one but first disconnect it from the rack and see if it is full of oil. To replace it the track rod end needs disconnecting at the steering arm and then removing from the track rod, count the number of turns to undo it so it can be put back in the same place and not need the tracking doing.

Maybe you could have a look at the wiring in the boot and see if the sensor system takes a feed from a reversing light - if so you could try linking in a 12 volt feed with a switch on the dash so you could switch it on when not in reverse (it may also put on the reversing light). Another possibility is to provide a switched earth at the reversing switch on the gearbox (if the auto has one).

If the brakes are binding then the engine will need to do more work so would get hot quicker. It is also a bit warmer outside now so this will also reduce the time to warm up. Is the oil level low or the coolant level low so less available to remove the heat and are there any leaks ? Also look at the fuel injectors to see if the injector to cylinder head seals are leaking (oil/carbon around them and possibly a chuffing noise with the engine running). You can also see if the engine fan runs and if the radiator is blocked with anything. If you had a code reader that does live data you could see what the engine temperature sensor was giving to the gauge and seeing if it is reading high compared to the outside temp on starting from cold and when the thermostat opens (approx 90°C). The fan should cut in about 96°C.

Is this the trip computer the multi function screen one or the one on the speedo ? If the one on the speedo it will be the distance to the next service or if a spanner symbol stays on will be the distance covered since the service should have been done. If the latter then that would explain the beeps and possibly the stop message but if not have a look in the handbook for other possibilities such as the front brake pads being worn or low battery voltage. If it has been serviced recently the service interval can be reset by holding in the speedo trip mileage button and then turning on the ignition so the dash lights up, the counter will count down and when it shows =0 the button can be released and the engine started if desired. Resetting the service interval is covered in the handbook.