paul.h

If the wheels are the alloy solid centre type (no central hub hole), then others have reported that not all tyre fitters have the necessary adaptors to be able to balance them. If the vibration occurs when applying the brakes then the front or rears may need checking for disc runout.

Simple things to check include a stone in the tyre tread, something in a wheel trim, corrosion between a rear brake caliper and the suspension arm which pushes the caliper out and catches the wheel (common problem usually noticed by brake squeal and lots of postings on here about it). Early cars were known for noisy rear suspension so it may even be this.

On the towbar are there 2 sockets, grey and black ? Black does the trailer lighting and probably fed from the common fuse with the pump but will have relays which take signals from the rear lights - possibly by connecting to the rear wiring or plugs in the rear. The grey socket is for a caravan battery charging and fridge and reverse lights - this should take a fused supply direct from the battery. The problem may be from the lighting socket relays being faulty - try and find these in the boot and disconnect.

Welcome to the forum. On the 1.4 petrol there are 2 temperature sensors at the left hand (gearbox end) side of the cylinder head. The one on the top does the dash gauge and the one on the side is a high temperature switch. On high temperature they both have the same effect (if I have read the wiring diagram correctly) of starting the radiator fan and setting the gauge to full and giving the high temperature indication. So if the fan is also coming on, chances are the other sensor is at fault - could be tested by disconnecting the sensor wiring plug which should then drop the indicated temp back to cold when the engine is started - bridge the plug terminals and should go back to high temp.

Before having injectors replaced, it is still probably worth the effort of replacing the glow plugs, these do not cost much and they do not last forever. Should be similar effort as replacing spark plugs on a petrol car.

Maybe there was a mobile phone mast or something blocking the key fob signal. Happened to me once in a car park I had often used but I could not see any masts. The other doors can be locked manually - if you open a door, there is a small sticker covering a hole in which the key can be used to lock that door when it is then shut. It was mentioned on this forum and may be in the car handbook.

hi i wonder if you can help me? my wifes Xsara 1.4 lx has just failed it's mot due to the fact that the fog lights will only switch on but not off again. the only way you can switch them off is to switch the lights off. i've tried spraying contact cleaner into the indicator arm but to no avail.HELP!!! Seanb, This sounds like a sticking relay on the supply to the fog lights - try tapping it but it is likely to need replacing. The switch must be working since it lets the fog lights go on when used but does not appear to put them on when the normal headlights are switched on (assumed this from your note). Switching off the headlights also turns off the fog lights since they are not meant to work unless the headlights are also on.

I think I have read on here that the steering can be reset by switching the ignition on and off 3 times but without starting the engine. Water leaking down past the washer jets is also a known problem for the petrol engines, dripping on to the injectors and causing failure - happened to our 1.4sx. Prevention is by putting sealant under the jets to seal against the bonnet and also to ensure the hose connecting to the jets does not leak at the join. I replaced the hard plastic hose with rubber and moved the T-join to the 2 jets to the side of the bonnet so this also could not drip onto the injectors.

With the car documents there should also be a grey plastic card (size of credit card) with the key code on it which a dealer needs to be able to code a new key.

The 1.4 petrol has 2 temperature sensors at the left hand (gearbox) end of the engine cylinder head. The one on the top gives the temp indication and the one on the side is a high temp switch. If I have read the wiring diagram correctly, on high temp both have the effect of putting the gauge to maximum and starting the engine fan.

To check if you have an alarm, lock the doors with the 'plipper' then unlock the driver's door using the key in the keyhole. Then open the door and the alarm will go off. Put the key in the ignition to stop the alarm or use plipper buttons. (Not sure if plipper is a correct term but sounds ok).

Welcome to the forum. Does the locking problem occur with the spare key fob ? It sounds as if the key fob is trying to lock the doors all the time - when done this way I think it dead locks the doors so the internal switch will not unlock them. With a door open, they will not lock if trying to be locked, this is normal. There is also a feature on the car so the doors auto lock when setting off - this is activated and deactivated by holding in the internal lock button (maybe with the engine running). It may pay to try a key in the door locks to make sure they work so the spare could be used to get in the car (may set off alarm but will stop when ignition turned on). The suspension going up and down has been reported in the forum so a search may help (can't remember cause).

Last thing I can think of that may not be a wiring problem, do you have a tow bar fitted ? In the socket there may be a pin to disconnect the car fog lights if a trailer is connected and it may be stuck open or dirty on the contacts. To check you would need to split the 12N (black) socket and look in the back of it.

To get to the large nut you first have to knock off the thin metal cover in the middle of the drum with a hammer and screwdriver. It will get damaged and need replacing, as well as the large nut since this is peened to the hub axle.

Symptoms seem to be of a low/poor battery or something causing a voltage drain but I would have thought the AA and garage would have checked this - when was the battery last replaced ? There have been reports here on eco mode, try a search, but I seem to remember some had something to do with mobile phones connected to the car.

To try and pin point the source I would get somebody to sit in the car and raise and lower the suspension whilst I went round the car listening (do not go under the car though to avoid being squashed unless using ramps or a pit). This squeaking is not normal - at least for our C5. Possible causes could include a rubber bush that needs replacing (try something like WD40 spray to check) a pivot bearing in the rear suspension arm, rust on the outside of the suspension 'shock absorbers' rubbing against the gaiters, front suspension arm ball joint, rear suspension 'shock absorbers' where they push against the rear arms.

Another possibility, do the rear brake lights work ? The fog lights are part of the normal rear lights - ie the double filament bulbs and the rear brake lights are separate. This confused me when I fit the towbar. I also seem to think there may only be one rear fog light (need to check this though) so it could just be one rear double filament bulb that needs replacing.

You need to turn the light switch twice to get the rear fog lights and their separate dash light on - the first turn only puts on the front fogs and its dash light.

I had not used our mk 1 C5 for a month and the battery went low to just over 11 volts. This was not enough to turn the engine so it was jump lead started from another car. The clock had stopped and the radio also needed to be reprogrammed and the hatch door would not unlock until the engine was running and the voltage increased.

When doing on-line insurance quotes you can make adjustments to reduce the cost. Try and estimate the annual mileage, if only 5000 miles as opposed to 10000 will reduce the cost. Have a higher excess. With Direct Line you may find as a young driver there will be an additional £400 excess on top of the £150 in your quote. If you have house insurance then Direct Line reduce the car insurance cost. If a parent will be the main driver of the car then have the insurance in their name with you as a named driver - you will still build up a no claims discount with Direct Line. Do not have any named drivers who have had a recent claim. With a young car you are best to go for comprehensive insurance but due to the high excess you pay on an own fault claim, and subsequent loss of no claims discount on insurance renewals, it is probably not worth claiming on anything that costs less than around £1000 to repair (unless there is damage to other people or their property).

Welcome to the forum. 1. Mark 2 model started September 2004 and have the different rear lights and front. So you have a mark 1. 2/3. You do not have the particulate filter in the exhaust or eolys fluid - only applied to 2.2 hdi on the mark 1 car. 4. It should not need any suspension fluid unless there is a leak. 5. The service schedule should be in the car handbook but is similar to other cars - filter (oil/air/cabin pollen) changes, brake checks/clean, oil changes, fuel filter, maybe cambelt at this mileage, brake fluid change every 2 years, anti freeze may be the type that does not need regular changes - if so it is a yellowish colour. I think I have remembered most items.

A scan of the pages on the C5 section should help, plus this would be a better place for your post to obtain more replies. One thing to watch for is if it is due or needs the exhaust particle filter replacement/eolys fluid top up on a mark 1 2.2 hdi or mark 2 diesels - the cost will be around £400 - 500. Approx mileage for this depends on the model year but could be 70k.

With the rear brake drums off, it is worth the effort of filing off the wear ridges around the inside of the drum so the shoes can seat flat against the braking surface. This will also help future drum removal. We had a Vauxhall Viva which had an almost useless handbrake until this was sorted - the shoes were mainly contacting the ridge.

Have just read that Honda Civics are being recalled for a similar handbrake problem. You do not say how old your car is but if you look in the service schedule, there is nothing that covers inspecting the rear brakes with the drums off. Last year I cleaned the rear drums/shoes on our 2003 1.4sx, it had done 25k miles. Both drums were very badly glazed and took a lot of effort to clean. The car had a new MOT but the glazing would reduce the efficiency of the brakes. With the drums off a check also needs to be made that the cylinders are not leaking brake fluid which would soak into the shoes so again they would not work fully. When removing the rear drums, the drum bearing dust cover has to be prised off and replaced with a new one and also the retaining nut has to be replaced.

Our 2003 1.4 sx petrol gives warning bleeps on starting if the fuel tank level is low - no messages to tell you what it is though so took some time before I realised what it was.