iannez

agree with kfk. is there a chuffing nose from under the bonnet.

using a diag tool. unlock, type in ecu code, internet config and code keys in. job done. take it to another dealer.

genuine front wipers are around £25 each and the bulbs less than a £1 each unless its a headlight bulb around £6. dealers vary in price depending which part of the country your from. we charge £99 for minor service and £30 for mot if done at time of service. half hours labour for brake service if needed around £30 but there is no way we would go ahead with any work unless it was authorised by the costomer. there having a laugh mark.

you can buy an adapter harness

yes mate 99% sure its alternator.

remove the door card and the membrane covers the hole on the inside of the door. the glue along the bottom comes away so when water runs down the inside of the door it comes out behind the door card, over the top of the seal and into the footwell.

ive tried using a belt of a c3 without aircon to try and rule it out but it was the wrong size. pullys, tensioner or rollers must be different. look through the lower bumper grill bottom left hand side of the condenser where the pipe bolts on and you will probably see where your aircon is leaking from. if the pressure sensor does not see above a set pressure it wont work.

you need to remove the auxilary belt and start the car to see if the noise goes off. if it does i think you will find the alternator bearings are on there way out. if the noise is still there you will need the timing covers removing and check rollers, tensioners etc. done quite a few alternators for this fault so i think you will find that is the problem.

have you checked around the bottom of the door membrane.

get some one to bang on the bottom of the fuel tank while you crank it over. if it starts the low pressure pump is on its way out.

dont think there will be many used ones about mate as they tend to leak.

open the tailgate and look behind the brake light. you will see 2 holes. inside are 2 clips holding the brake light in. press the clips in with a screwdriver and the light pops out and gives you access to the washer jet. the pipe has probably come off.

its called an air dozer and it comes complete.

if the ecu was damaged the diag tool would not have been able to communicate with it.

servo is all thats left.

the chances are you have damaged the ecu but c5's can be a nightmare to get started if the battery was removed without following the shut down procedure so this needs looking into first. if the ecu has gone down an ecu clinic will repair it for around £200 or you could buy a new non genuine ecu for a bit less. non genuine ecu's dont need coding in so just plug and play but you loose the immobiliser.

low pressure pump???. if it does not have a hand primer under the bonnet you will need to drop the tank and its part of the sender unit. if it has a hand primer it wont have one. the high pressure pump is the timing pully nearest the power steering pump.

if you manualy alter the boost the ecu will see the extra pressure as a fault. also the fueling will be all wrong a would damage your engine. if it was that easy there would be no need for a remap. a good remap will adjust boost and alter fueling to suit and also change the stored values in the ecu so the extra boost wont be seen as a fault.

paint code is on the bottom of the sticker with tyre pressures etc. 4 digits. nearly sure ezrc is silver for example.

in vin no - rhy=90bhp rhz=110bhp

you got the p-code mate.

you are pushing the gear lever to the right and down when coming out of 5th. all dv6 and dv4 diesel citroens do it. pull it straight back without any sideways preassure and it will work fine. Then again i'mm an untrained baboon as you put it so probably have no idea what i'mm talking about.

The thing is when cars did not have computers you would never get 110bhp from a family sized diesel car that would do 60mpg would you. said all i have to say about the cost of diag checks in previous posts. take your cars where you want and let the bulk of backstreet garages take them to a dealer for you.

wasting your time changing glow plugs mate. they only work when engine temp is below -5 deg so the plugs that are in now will probably be as good as new. think how often you see the glow plug light on if ever.

agree with techbod. no need if a good quality oil is used.