iannez

p-1138 is a down stream oxygen sensor heating fault mate. this might come in handy so here is some info on dtc's. FIRST LETTER B = Body C = Chassis P = Powertrain U = Network FIRST NUMBER. if the first number starts with 0 its a standard obd dtc code for any car. if it starts with 1 its a dealer only dtc. SECOND NUMBER. 1 = Fuel & Air Metering 2 = Fuel & Air Metering - Injectors only 3 = Ignition System or Misfire Monitor 4 = Auxillary Emission Control System (Meaning EGR, Catalyst & EVAP systems) 5 = Vehicle Speed Control and Engine Idle Control 6 = Computer Output Circuits 7 = Transmission 9 = Transmission LAST 2 NUMBERS. the last 2 are a reference to the exact fault on the system at fault and need to be looked up. so your code p-1138 p=power train, 1=dealer dtc and 1=fuel and air metering. as you can see if you know how to read the first 3 digits of the dtc you have a rough idea where the problem is.

Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage. air flow meter fault.

best way to check egr valve is with a mighty vac. remove the vacume pipe and connect it to the vac and pump away. now release the pressure and listen for the valve snapping shut. if you hear this its ok. the main thing to check on these is the cam pullys. one of them is rubber bushed. the rubber splits and retards the timing. thats why some of the hpi's sound like diesels.

the abs ecu and block are different. more pipes and sensors on models with esp.

has it had the comms recall. if your car has front fogs it should have 2 arrows pointing up next to the switch. the models without fogs only have one.

you can set it so an alarm sounds when you go over the set speed.

most running problems on hpi c5's are down to the vvt pully starting to fail.

does not go to anything.its the drain pipe. it hangs down the front of the gearbox. just stops diesel going all over the engine when when you drain the filter.

mac tools are doing this one for around £30 http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/data/articlestandard/motorage/122007/412995/032207NL_MAC4.jpg

plus the £6000 pound diag tool the garage needs to be able do this job. a diag check is £50+ and theres less work involved so i think half an hours labour is very reasonable. if the can lead does work it will only access the injection ecu. a £30 hand held code reader would do the same job so dont waste your money.

first place to start is the transponder ariel. its a ring that sits around the end of the ignition barrel and reads the chip in the key. around £20 from dealer.

it would be a nightmare to do mate. the heater box flaps are moved by motors, yours are cables so you would need a heater box and that means dash out. the display unit alone will be over £100, then you would need an ecu and internal temp sensor. tbh i think you would be looking around £1000 just for parts. not worth the risk or work.

i would have gone for cam or crank sensor. the fault would have been cam and crank synchronization. sounds like they have fitted the wrong one.

done a few hdi's where the rockers have broken and the valves have been ok so you might be lucky but most of the time there is valve damage as kev says.

9 times out of 10 its the alternator. is there a burning smell coming from it.

i dont think it will be an earth fixing fault. could be a broken wire in a door gator. start with the drivers door.

its from citroen service. you have to be a citroen tech to access it. we all get user names and passwords to login.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/iannez_photo/Image006.jpg

they fit anything as long as you can find a manifold to pair them to the engine.

paula. the code you have found is to programme the key to the car after it has been cut. its also for coding the radio so dont loose it. c3 keys have to be orderd from vin number as they are laser cut and cant be done at a dealer or locksmiths etc.

when the handbrake is on and the shoes make contact with the drum getting in and out makes both shoes and drum turn slightley. the noise comes from the shoe rubbing against the back plate when it moves. a dab of copper slip sorts it.

behind the holder in the glovebox. pull it and it will come out.

you are one of the few motability costomers who look after there cars. i mot them and do the damage reports just before they go back to motability and around 80% of them have not been looked after at all. tbh if i was looking to buy a car and found out it was ex motability i would be put off unless it was realy cheap. we get the odd few that come through who's owners like yourself keep there cars spotless but most of them smell of smoke and dogs and are coverd in carpark dings and scrapes. most of these cars have had a very hard first 3 years of life and everything gets repaired just before the car is sold on. the cars look great at first but after a few months the paint on the repaired panels starts to fade and the smells return.

need a bit more info than that mate. last 8 numbers of your vin is always the best way to check part numbers.

the wiring diagramme should be made up of 3 sheets. 2nd sheet will tell you what other components share the earth and the third is a picture of the car showing where they are located. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/iannez_photo/xantia.jpg