iannez

tensioner would be another £20. our service price is the same across board but the timing belt price would depend on what engine was fitted to the car. 14hdi for example would be another £50 labour for timing belt. we make money off parts as well as labour so anything that needs replacing during a service and can be done so with little work would not have a labour charge.

thats about what we would charge (dealer). £200 - major service including brake fluid change. £130 - timing belt fitted changed at time of service. £20 - antifreeze changed at time of service. its down to personal preference where you have the service done but if you use a dealer they should carry out a full diagnostic check and update your ecu software as part of the service.

the car is an 04 tech so coming up to 7 years old. i would change the belt at this age just to be on the safe side. the brake fluid is part of a major service so price should be included and if you get your anti-freeze changed while the car is in having the service a decent garage would only charge you for the fluid and not labour. around £350 should cover all depending on what part of the country your from.

was the work done by a dealer.

think they mean reset the auto adaptives.

look inside the door at the back of the handle and you will see a white plastic part that moves when you pull the outer handle. hook a right angle pick behind it and apply a bit pressure pulling it towards the front of the door then while doing this slowly pull the outer handle until you feel it click. this is the removal position. now pull the outer handle out and slide it back and it will come out. remove the rubber seals and drill out the 3 rivets. to refit the handle hook the front in and push the handle all the way in and slide it forward. keep it pushed in and push the white plastic thing towards the back of the door and it will lock back into place. here to help mate. let me know how you get on.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/iannez_photo/actuator.jpg

the top pully runs the power steering pump. it has a black plastic reservoir on top of it with a red steering wheel on the filler cap. bottom left of engine as you look at it. pumps on older models are in the same place but have the reservoir fitted to the inside of the drivers wing. just follow the feed pipe to the pump.

yes. pop it off and it will release the cam so you can fit the end of the cable. naughty to get back together tho. take note of where the spring sits before removing it.

you can pop the metal bar out that the spring is wrapped around but you realy need to have had one out prior to see how it works because most of the work is done by feel. best way is to drill the rivets out and build it all up on the floor and then re-fit it as a whole.

if there tight i use a lever bar to pop out the ball joint so you can get hold of the back with some grips while you wind the nut off.

its a cheap and easy fix mate. best way to check would be to fit the spare and give the car a run and see what happens. bmw have the best idea. they use the abs sensor to measure the rolling circumference of the tyre and when it falls below a set figure it puts the light on. dont know why they all dont use this method.

if the sensor is damaged or removed it would show a fault. could they have been deactivated before you owned the car, have you ever seen them working.

take it back to where the clutch was fitted and tell them it was not there before they worked on it. if they still cant find anything wrong tell them you are taking the car to another garage and if they find it has something to do with what they have done they will be getting the bill. might make them look a bit harder.

its an internal fault in the mech itself and not a design fault. fit a new mech and you will have no more probs.

there is a modified button available for these radios. there not as deep so dont bottom out when you press them. or you could remove the one thats on and grind about 4mm off the skirt.

the radio does not lose the code when you disconnect the battery. did you let everything shut down correctley before you removed the battery and does the car still start, remote locking still work etc.

you need to remove the bumper but i have never had to to change a bulb on a c5 or the battery for that matter. just ignore the pain and wedge your hand in.

just change the arm. remove the gator and it screws off. http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/General/Universal%20parts/steering_rod.jpg

think it was 307 hdi's on watchdog.

they did a 2.2 twin turbo 170bhp hdi in the old shape c5. they are fantastic to drive and much more economical than the v6.

exactly what i thought steve but didnt want to say.

it would have a button on the dash to disable it.

pump is run off the timing belt so if the pump was removed he would have had to remove the belt so fitting a new belt would have made no extra work but as long as the jobs done and your happy thats all that matters.

should be a straight swap. worst bit is removing the air bag. remove the cowls then you need to prise the clips back through the holes in the back of the steering wheel to release it. 50 torx to remove the steering wheel, remove the plugs from the back of the comms and then loosen the 10mm bolt on the collar of the comms that sits round the top of the steering column then lift the lugs on each side and it slides off. be careful when you remove the plugs. i use a right angle pick to push the clip back and the plug pulls out easy, no need to force. if your car has esp the car the comms was removed from will also have to have it. if so you will need the steering wheel angle sensor reset at a dealer.