techbod

it sounds like the temp sensor/fan switch has failed, just cutting the wire will cause more harm because it will over heat

any work been done on the cooling system? have the wires been joined to make it run all the time because the temp sensor wasn't working? or simply a wiring fault and the fan is live all the time

I cant help there because the C5 is newer than my software but as a guide to bleeding you always look for the highest point in the cooling system and that's not the expansion tank even though it is higher so we are looking at a pressure thing and normally found where the thermostat housing is

the image is an invite to joint the RAF ;)

a small thing and not realised by many as a cause of the problem, Im glad it was a cheap fix

hello and welcome from the UK, Citroen is a world thing i sure so we are all together a single unit loving Citroen's the good thing about the Internet is we can help no matter where you are ;)

the Volvo has ankering points because it was an option to have rear seats in but the insurance would be effected ( if you told them ) the xantia never had 7 seats so the police would notice ;) one thing to remember is the rear seat in the Volvo were for children only up to a certain weight so it wasn't really a 7 seater

don't remove it just spray it with wd 40 and clean with wire brush till its loose then put lots of grease on it, you could lightly tap it with a hammer to free it up but not too hard

its normal with today's cars even the best so how to prevent it, open the door and hold the metal then put your foot on the ground this will discharge the static to the ground and not you, where it get you is you put your foot on the ground first the put your hand on the car so your still charged up and when you touch the metal on the door you discharge the static on the car, my Lexus did it lol and shocking it was too and not good if you have a pace maker ;)

it would also need to be reclassified for insurance reasons from seating capacity so not worth it, buy a C8 ;)

does it start ok? if it starts but take a few crank then the glow plugs might need replacing and not expensive £20 for 4 from eurocarpart, the other ignition lights coming on are normal as long as the don't stay on then the engine is running

stop light is LHM fluid level, coolant light flickering could be a faulty/loose wire on the temp sensor, things to check are do the engine cooling fans cut in? if yes then I cant see it being a problem and down to the above, does it blow hot air into the cabin? if not then it could be there is air in the system, if it blows hot then its a loose wire

you cant turn the alarm off on this year/model and its activated with the fob so chances are the fob has lost synchronization with the system and needs to be reset ( pressing the fob button out of range does this and taking too long to change the battery in the fob ), to reset the alarm/fob switch ignition on. wait for LED to extinguish - if fitted. within 30 seconds: press lock/unlock button. within 10 seconds: press lock/unlock button on remaining keys. ensure LED illuminates for approx 0,5 seconds. synchronization procedure is now complete. confirm synchronization has been successful by locking, double locking and unlocking vehicle

well nikk your showing signs of fear and you have both ways to release the pressure so the diagnostic tool isn't required but much easier if you have it, first thing to consider is are the connections to the alloy block tight as the systems being hydraulic expand and retract so they might just need nipping up, calipers hitting the wheels? or do you mean the discs have an edge on them and its touching the calipers in which case you could grind the edge off while discs are still on but you have to consider if the discs are too thing and need replacing and if so its the caliper carrier bolts you need to be worried about because you can live without the screws holding the discs because they are only there to keep the discs in place when replacing wheels and keep the holes lined up, fear is the downfall and when that's set in let someone else do it ;)

does it have a passenger airbag? if the passenger side is disabled with the key ( for when you Carry a baby in the front )it flashes the light, sometimes the switch plays up

I believe this engine has a map sensor it has a vacuum pipe going to it and an electrical plug and if that's shot it wont start, to be found on the bulk head approx middle, crank sensor is a good one if no signal because its loose/damaged the result will be the same and a no start, not sure if it has an inertia fuel shut off switch normally located on the driver side suspension ( a little black button ) press it in, does it have the key pad immobiliser and does it work? hope this helps

2.2. Without diagnostic equipment URGENT : Any LDS fluid recovered must not be re-used . N.B. : Collect the LDS fluid so as to keep the working area clean . respect the environment . Start the engine . Set the height control to the "LOW" position . Stop the engine . 2.2.1. Vehicles with hydractive suspension 3 Front suspension : undo the detensioning screw (1) by one turn . Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully . Rear suspension : undo the detensioning screw (2) by one turn . Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully . 2.2.2. Vehicles with hydractive suspension 3+ Front suspension : undo the detensioning screw (3) by one turn . Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully . Rear suspension : undo the detensioning screw (4) by one turn . Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully .

ill have to get me a C5 ;)

data doesn't say if it has a relay and the thing near the gear stick is the central locking control module ensure all the plugs are tight and clean ( has any water got in there ) spilled coke/tea, the fact the central locking is working says the fuses are ok

you bleed it as you would for changing a sphere and the whole system has to be depressurized , put the rear end on axle stands at a height you can work then drop the suspension all the way down and open the bleed nut on the regulator, you only need to turn the bolt a 1/4 turn and don't remove all together otherwise you will drain all the fluid instead of the pressure

always worth checking ebay out they kill the traders prices and are new original parts http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/?_nkw=citroen...mp;_trksid=m270 going by the prices on there you can get a full system including cat for £200

I have the 1.8 16v 2000 xantia and get 30+mpg urban and 45+mpg on a run but it depends on how hard the foot is and the diesel fare slightly better but the cost of diesel blows that away and the repairs cost much more on the diesel ( you can guess from that I don't like diesels ) personal choice of course ;) because there are many who like them

explain why not if its 2002+ it should do engine management but that's all but it would be interesting to hear from those who have used it

totally not acceptable new or trading standards they will sort it

yep there is the problem the height corrector is stuck due to obvious reasons, nice pictures by the way and others should consider this ;) other Wise how can I diagnose the problem ;)