techbod

I can only give advice on this topic and depends on the road conditions you drive which i'm sure you are aware off and the claims should be directed at the council ( farmers need not apply ) <_< the reluctor ring is on the newer cars where as its part of the cv joint on the older type

the audible multimeter rules this out as you test them all but in most cases it will be 10amp red or 15amp blue

interesting as this happens to many of the newer car and its down to the main auxiliary cog <_< on the serpentine belt system it has a suspension type rubber/bushing in it that's breaks down and vibrates and a new cog needs to be installed other faults are the serpentine tensioner

its controversial to the dealer I know but the owners have there limit of nonsense charges before work is carried out ( tools have to be provided and its a TAX right off or provided by the gov or most of it is ) the gov sets the immersions laws and has a duty to help the dealers comply with that as they cant just introduce a bill that would put you out of business because you cant afford the tools ( a franchise has these rights ) so please don't push the poor man storey here your making a killing ;) and we "joe public know very well" <_< we call it a grant ( not Cary grant ) if I spelled that right ;)

this is a doggy one ( can you claim against the warranty? NO ) its stone chips and all cars suffer from that but when you have warranty work done they should sort it without question while its under warranty as its there job and you will notice that when they add to the invoice ( pen stick ) to you and me that's a touch up paint <_<

most of the pin outs are well known like 16 is live and 4 is earth which are on the net but the ones That the makers control are secret and used for testing and that's where it gets difficult and only way round that is a BRB ( break out box ) that way you can probe the pins but it could be dangerous to the ECU if you probe the wrong pin, the only other way is to use a pro BRB direct from the ECU as long as you have the pin out data

yep I understand your reasoning because tools have to be paid for but when do they stop getting paid for?, the cost of the diagnostic should be written off if the customer has the work carried out by the dealer which would stop the crafty runners <_<

they come with a new cv boot but you could ask the dealers or motor trade shops or even use a nice strong tie wrap the electricians use and mostly supplied when buying aftermarket cv boot kits as standard

I don't tar all of them just most of them because they think of profit before the costumer ( take a lesson from Atuozone USA ) the do the diagnostic free because it could help gain work "you charge regardless" and that puts the car owners in fear of high costs before you even start, I know a lot about the dealers I was one but when cars didn't have all this techno involved and was very lenient on pricing where as now its on the book. my answer is to make people check around before committing to dealers pricing

I had a similar issue with a BMW the pump was used on the Mercedes Bosch, the in tank pump can be used from another car but it needs to have the right feed pressures for fuel delivery and its also possible to fit a high performance pump in its place ( outside the tank ) that way you leave the sender in the tank and rewire the new pump using the wires from the in tank pump if you get my drift :unsure:

its all about multiplexing and software compatibility so not that easy because of the wiring on the 16 pin DLC, Citroen use all 16 but finding out which connects to what is the hardest bit

simple fix for the software ( you need to set its properties to windows 2000 ) right click the icon go to properties and select compatibility then select win 2000 and run as administrator

the only reason I would recommend a multimeter that has the bleep/continuity test is you can hear it rather than looking at it and making the mistake of thinking its ok when it has a very minor crack in the element and you cant see it, if the fuse is ok then its probably a relay as that would operate the speeds of the wipers I don't have any data on this newer cars so probably someone will tell you which ones and where they are

ahh this is an easy one P1ss0ff the road isnt wide enough for two of us :unsure: j/k

if you have a fault logged and no code reader then you could clear it by disconnecting the battery negative wire only and switching on all thing like heated rear window/lights/fogs which will drain any left over power in the MEMS system or CAM ( keep alive memory ) then you can do a few drive cycles to allow the ECU to relearn but if the fault returns then you need to have the fault codes extracted with a diagnostic tool ( dont forget the radio code :unsure: ),

I did with the xantia and it turned out to be the automatic cable adjuster failing is not sure about the C1 but worth noting

im not knocking them its just personal preference im not a diesel man but they are getting better and quieter, LPG on the other hand can save cash if you do the miles and the car is under 3 yrs old because the gov help you out with the cost, my mate from auto-glass has a new hummer and declined LPG conversion because 3 of his vans which were converted buggered the engines up and thats was enough for him to change his mind :unsure:

worthless upgrade like lpg, are diesels any better? fact is no because they know you get better fpu/pg ( diesels are not cheaper to run than your eqv-fact :unsure:

my mate has a chip fat fryer also :roll eyes: only its a VW :D now hes got rid off and gone to petrol ( he says its much better and cheaper ) others are bound to disagree :unsure:

I doubt there is a link but engine light on and off could be coil pack arcing or arcing at the plugs but that would leave a fault code like p1312, the wipers hmmm its been snowing and very icy lately so check the rods on the wiper motor are still connected ( known to uncouple with frozen blades on the screen ) and check all the fuses as some are linked

sorry steve that's not a good idea :unsure: find the resistor pack and change it

duff brushes in the alternator mate :unsure: new or rebuild alternator required

it does but you must turn all auxiliary systems to deplete the mems (keep live mems CAM ) complicated buggers but easily opened by experience :unsure:

yep feed back is important to others and myself im glad you sorted it :unsure:

2000 xantia uses the EOBD 16 pin connector but check it first as some have the 30 pin and those your looking at don't work on the xantia and its doubtful you will get one to work on ( been there :unsure: ) only one worked for me was the dealer one and not cheap, others that work are snap on and that sort of range so best look on eBay for a cheap prices good one