techbod

sounds like ive been down this street once before ( cold start issue ) but without any fault codes its only going to be guessing so im not going to list the many causes like coolant temp sensor cough plus many other possibles, things to consider you cranked the car and it failed to start so you left it for a while and it started? you have altered the cold start issue because something was energised or fuel pressure pumped up? so look for cold start system ( they all have them ) different for many makes of car from a cold start injector to a wax stat

its been covered before but cant find it, your not setting the code up correctly there are 2 buttons to press together to allow you to enter the code

problem with the newer cars is they have a MEMS system or CAM keep alive memory ( the K is debatable ) it should be "C" to clear all the memory you have to disconnect the earth wire to the battery then switch all ancillary devices on to deplete any stored memory ( do not disconnect the live lead from the battery ) insert the ignition key then switch on but don't crank the engine now connect the negative to the battery and take it for a drive to set the ECU up ( called a drive cycle ), disconnecting the live from the battery first will turn the air bag light on

halford/maplin sell them and very cheap, the problem with these fuses are you cant see any defects apart from the obvious and the bleep test takes that away so if its ok then it bleeps

I doubt it will work I tried that with my cough :rolleyes: omega, its all linked to sensors and the ECU " the newer cars have them and you don't " £££

the immobiliser is the key to anyone stealing the car no point with that alarm your thinking of fitting because when you hear it the damage is done, its good to fit one for warning the thief but wont stop silly drunks turning your car over, full comprehensive insurance is your best bet

6 weeks for a new alternator :rolleyes: , the alternator was the problem so charging the battery would be a waste of time and would drain very quickly ( the battery is only there to start the car and keep memory to vital things like parking lights/clock/ECU ) the engine drives off the alternator

^^ good advice and use a multimeter with a bleep test that way you get an audible sound if the fuse is ok

I would still use a multimeter with a bleep test and check all the fuses, the bleep test is the best because its audible so no guessing if the fuse is ok

with a tube to the mouth lol

halfords do a good range which clip on the window ledge just watch out for the blue lights if holding/drinking even water while driving they are looking for cash ( gov cut backs and all that ) well somebody has to pay for the booze at number 10 and the chiefs new BMW :rolleyes:

pretty standard pistons just push in nothing to expect out of the norm also clean any rust off and grease the bolts that hold the caliper on as they are bearings/pistons and should move freely to allow the caliper to retract and of course use Axel stands, my appols the xsara has the hand break on the rear ( none hydro ) :rolleyes: so the pistons have to be turned in <_<

the computer/ECU 53 pin is used in a variety of cars ZX - XANTIA - PUG 306/406 and a few more as for the stepper motor even the 1.4 zx is the same so you have a wider choice to look at

definitely not shared with radio? check the fuse that does the rear wiper/washer system, windscreen wash/wipe, windscreen wiper motor and rain sensor that's the fuse your looking for or do what I do and check all the fuses with a multimeter

this is one of those diesel things and not much to choose from unfortunately unless it a 2004+ car so Ill have a good look for you, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-CAR-DIAGNO...A1%7C240%3A1308 price is the tough one :rolleyes:

personally I don't know how they can justify that and not get a proven fault with those fault codes I mean really what code does a failing pump give if any? it reports a fuel pressure loss and could have been tested rather than guessing, not good for a garage to fail like that :rolleyes:

fuse number F24 in the dash facia

did you know you can remove them and it doesn't effect the MOT? but if you have only one on it does effect the MOT, I always clean the rust off and treat it then spray with black stone guard then to make it look good I spray it red ( my fav colour ) just a quickie on the edge of the disc I take it off with a grinder and tap the excess rust of with a small hammer ( you cant stop them rusting ) its normal due to heat/cold conditions

sound like it went well then ( always go for the stretch boot even the cv boot it saves a lot of time ) all the garages that I know use them " I always though every one knew about the stretch boots " not the others lol :rolleyes:

that's why I didn't mention a way round it chances are it would backfire on you when something really goes wrong :rolleyes:

unfortunately there is no way to eliminate it without removing the bulb or to buy a cheap reset tool of ebay :rolleyes:

disabling it isn't going to solve anything because there is obviously a cold start issue which is setting the ECU into limp mode but since its not effecting the performance when its warmed up you need to look at the bigger issue so whats the fault code? if there is none then its a mechanical issue like the EGR valve / spark plug leads / spark plug / coil pack / coolant-fuel temp sensor, im thinking EGR valve needing cleaning out or fuel injector sticking and some fuel injector cleaner would help there because the car runs ok when warm I would say its a minor/intermittent problem ( try starting the car then switch it of and start it again ) if the problem isnt there then we can narrow the problem to cold start

hmmm you could heat it up with a hair drier to make it loose then push it off failing that it will need to be cut off and don't put another one on just put plenty of grease on it ( don't know why they put it on in the first place as they must know it has to come off to replace the track rod ) hot water might loosen it http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/103312.jpg the locking nut in the middle is where its joined so no need to remove the far end

ahhh I know what you mean and it doesn't need to come off there just cut the old boot off and slide the new one over it then use tie raps to lock it in place a cheat way is to turn the boot inside out then force it over the ball joint which will turn it outside in, sounds daft but I do that with cv boots

never seen a rubber cover on my old cars so it might need pulling it over the ball joint so you can undo it