Johndouglas

In any of the Haynes photographs showing the Seem meter, it's the G2 105.5 that's shown. It's the units in the first column that I use.

I don't think so........................... EDIT>> Go to post No 8 and compare the specification for LDS and Fluide DA and see they are both the same spec.

Here's a copy of the Autodata conversion chart:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Autodata%20timing%20data_zps6nvjqvtk.jpg[/url]

You can get mechanical tension gauges which are as good. Look on ebay and they start around 20 quid. They may not be scaled in Seem units but Autodata publish a conversion chart. I use an old American Boroughs meter. Here it is on my XUD5 http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Belt007.jpg[/url]

Hello & welcome to the forum. The correct fluid makes for a confusing problem with the handbook giving no help at all. My car is also a steel sprung C5-X7 and I've just looked at my power steering reservoir. It looks virtually empty yet it recently had a service at Citroen so presumably it's at the correct level. I've removed a couple of drops with a plastic tube and it looks like LDS. It's certainly not red ATX. Maybe Steve can give a definite answer.

No usually the light comes on before the pads are down to the bare minimum. But also check that the insulation on the wires is not chafed. It sometimes happens then the bare wire earths and shows the light.

I wonder if air is getting into the fuel lines. Before starting you could give the hand primer some squeezes until it feels solid, then try the starter.

Yes - the clip that I cut off was a square 'U' shape, so it held two sides as well as the circumference. A jubilee clip round it all holds it securely. Regarding the starting, when was the fuel filter changed last?

If it's a similar clip to that on my daughters Pug 306 what I did was to put a junior hacksaw cut across the top of the clip. Then it could be opened slightly and removed. I used the same clip on reassembly but put a large jubilee clip around it. It has stayed in place for years like that. I take the glowplugs out when they are hot. Which engine? The XUD7 or DW8

No! Even the early estate car has a slightly different bar to the facelift models. If you're looking at Witter, the early estate needs a C29 and the facelifted saloon needs a C34.

In recent years I haven't found it necessary to drain water from the fuel. Simply because there was never any in there.

The bolts have heads that make them look 'J' shaped. If you turn the bolt you'll get it in a position where the bolt will come out. Yes drift from the gearbox side.

Have you removed the two bolts completely? They have lopsided heads on them and they need to be turned to remove. With the bolts out, the bearing should come out fairly easily with a hammer and drift on the inside face.

Before you do anything else I would get the level of the LDS correct.

Probably a previous owner has had them turned off - maybe because the bulbs have blown - they are rather pricey to replace. If you want them on, you'll need a dealer or someone with a Lexia to do it. I've removed your other post and moved this one to the technical section.

I did the same job on my daughter's Xsara a couple of years ago. I replaced the resistor pack and the motor performed as it should for a couple of weeks but then it stopped working altogether. I finally replaced the complete motor. ECP for about £85. Here's a piccy I took if it helps at all. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1010883.jpg[/url]

Are you sure the leak is from the gaiter itself and not from some where else, having dripped on to the gaiter. It's a known fault to have a leakage of fluid from steering racks on early X7 models. See Note 25 in the "Common Problems" section. 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 5 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/?do=findComment&comment=75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/?do=findComment&comment=81594

I've never used a 2.2 C5 so cannot comment however my present C5-X7 with its 160bhp engine is preferable to my previous 136 bhp MkII. I've mentioned before that my present car is on steel springs and previously I've found that the back end sagged and rebounded when my caravan was hitched on. So much so that when I took the van to Spain in the winter I ruined the jockeywheel on a speed hump - The jockeywheel is a 9" diameter pneumatic, so it tends to hang low. But since then I've fitted some MAD towing springs which has transformed the ride. Without the caravan the stiffer springing isn't noticeable although when you view the car from side on, the stance of the rear end is somewhat higher than normal. Might even be that the headlights will need adjusting on the steering column. For others using a steel sprung C5 for towing, I can recommend them. They are a bit pricey in the UK but buy them from Germany and they can be had for around 25% less.

Hello & welcome to the forum. Yes - you're right - there is slight pressure within the LDS tank which will be released when the cap is removed. Providing the fluid hasn't been drained, the tank will re-pressurize itself when the pump begins to work. To check the level put the suspension in the lowest level and stop the engine before removing the cap. Just a reminder - for many years Citroens used LHM in the suspension system however, the C5 uses LDS. The two don't mix!

C5 Xenons wouldn't be the same because I think on the C5 the levelling is done by the suspension whereas on the C-C the levelling must be in the lamp itself.

Have you got your description right? It can't be diesel and also be 1.8. Diesels are 2ltr or 1.6 - but I don't think the 1.6 was an option in 2002. Anyway from what you say - when did you last change the fuel filter?

The previous C5 I used to have also had Xenon headlights and Citroen UK gave me a letter explaining that they didn't need conversion masks. Certainly they didn't appear to dazzle oncoming drivers because I never got flashed at. However I did hear that an owner who imported his C5 exclusive to France found that his vehicle wouldn't pass the contrôle technique without being modified.

I think one of the main changes between the latest C5 and the older models is that the diesel additive has changed. The old models used Eolys fluid which needed to be replenished every 90 to 100 thou miles, whereas the new models use Adblue which needs to be replenished much more frequently.

If Haynes can be trusted, it would seem to be 30amps.

An increase of 40% sounds reasonable to me. My vehicle is also a 2010 2ltr C5 (estate) and both when towing and driving solo, a small reduction in speed can have a big effect on fuel consumption. If I drive solo on a motorway at our national speed limit of 70 mph (112KPH) my fuel consumption is around 55mpg. Drop the speed to 65mph and fuel consumption falls to 61 or so mpg. Likewise when towing with the van, at the speed limit of 60mph fuel consumption is 30mpg but drop the speed to 55mph and consumption rises to 32mpg. These averages are for reasonably flat terrain. Take the outfit into the mountains and the fuel consumption takes a hit.