Johndouglas

Have a look on ebay. But you might stand a better chance of finding them if you use http://www.ebay.fr/

If you have a multimeter take a reading across the battery terminals before you attempt to start the engine. You should get a reading of around 12.7. Anything less than 12.7 shows a battery that's on it way out OR you've been doing a lot of short runs where the battery hasn't been sufficiently charged. Once the engine is running the voltage reading should be 14.3 or maybe slightly more.

It's a useful income for the parts department. Like the side repeaters on the Mk3. If the bulb goes, you can't replace it. You need a new light - obtainable only from Citroen.

That was an alarming experience! Has the garage been able to check the output of the alternator? Have they discovered whether or not the engine still runs? I've not heard of it happening before. A few months ago I had almost the same thing happening in my caravan which has a 12 volt on-board battery which is charged by a mains fed charger. The battery didn't reach explosion point but very close to because when I investigated, the battery was too hot to touch. The reason for the failure was the sudden death of one cell but with the charging system continuously trying to bring it up to level.

Have you checked the tyre pressures? Do the wheels spin freely when jacked up without the brake pads dragging?

P0113 is related to the air intake temperature.

Might it be you've replaced a dud bulb with another dud one. Check the power supply with a multimeter also check the negative supply by using the engine block. Intermittent power steering could be because of a low battery supply on start up. Check your battery voltage before starting. It should be around 12.7

My present C5 is a 2010 model and it is fitted with DRL lights, but they aren't LED. They use a filament bulb which carries a price tag of 30ish quid a pop and Citroen quote one hour labour charge to replace one. Several members have experimented with using LED bulbs as replacements.

The suspension system on the C5 is pretty reliable and doesn't often present faults. The suspension pump which was once belt driven becomes an electric pump on the C5. There was a time if you got an exclusive, you also got xenon lights, but Citroen dropped that idea after the facelift models. With a choice between the 1.6 and the 2ltr engines, take the 2 ltr every time. Not only is it a much more reliable engine, as you say, the C5 is rather too heavy for the smaller one. Providing oil changes are carried out correctly, the 2ltr engine seems to soldier on for several hundred thousand miles. Auto boxes don't appear to give too many problems however they do give better service life if they have periodic oil changes - which are quite complicated since the auto box can't be completely drained. Several owners of early C5-X7s have reported leaking power steering racks, a fault on 2008 & 2009 models which apparently Citroen UK don't admit exists. On the forum there is a useful topic dealing with common problems.

You should be using a 027 size 63Ah 630CCA battery. The battery suggested/fitted by Halford is probably suitable for the petrol engine model.

All the Citroen models seem to be very susceptible to all manner of malfunctions when the battery voltage is anything other than good. My previous C5 always lost its power steering after starting on a weak battery. Power steering came back after charging the battery for a while then switching off and restarting. Have you checked the output of the alternator at the battery terminals with the engine running? You should have a reading of around 14.2 volts.

Neither do they recognise GPS Coords which is why I much prefer to use my old Tomtom Classic.

Can we take it that it travels this way up.. :rolleyes:

It comes out of economy mode automatically after the engine has started. Then the engine needs to run long enough to raise the voltage level - otherwise if switched off too quickly will revert to economy mode quite quickly.

You didn't spend very long looking. There was one advertised only yesterday here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23756-vehicle-citroen-ax-10-debut-1992-for-sale/

Check fuse number 10 in the box close to the battery. It should be a 15amp fuse.

Citroen recommend you use Total Quartz Ineo First 0-30W

I started my C5 this morning which was the first time since Saturday and it hadn't gone into economy mode, although it no doubt would have done within three or four minutes had I not started. But other things need to be considered. My C5 doesn't have hydraulic suspension so no suspension pump to hit the battery before even switching on. Also my battery is 74amp/hr - others maybe 72 or even 70. Also it is comparatively new.

The time before economy mode kicks in is dependant on the level of charge in the battery. It might be worth you buying a decent voltmeter then you could also check the output of the alternator when the engine is running. It should give you a reading of around 14.2

You're right! There was a time when manufacturers specified an oil & filter change after 1000 miles but I can't help but wonder if it wasn't dropped to reduce maintenance costs for business users. However if you were to do an oil change yourself and use a good quality fully synthetic, low SAPS oil and a Purflex filter, a Citroen dealer wouldn't be aware of an interim oil change having taken place.

Take a reading of your battery voltage first thing before attempting to start. You should have 12.7 (or there abouts) before you turn the starter. If you have less then it's maybe new battery time.

The spring needs to be matched to the car. Every model of C4 will have a different rated spring. Have a look at www.mister-auto.co.uk It's advisable to change the springs on both sides

I've used this online company several times:- https://www.paints4u.com/

It's a well known problem with rear callipers on C5 - also on the previous Xantias and BXs. Due to the two different metals meeting together, you get a build up of corrosion within the joint. The corrosion is sufficient to push the calliper so that it begins to rub on the inside of the wheel rim. What is required is to remove the callipers and scrape away the hard deposits. Citroen DIY mechanics, having done the job, coat the two surfaces well with copper grease; others even make a gasket from plastic sheet. Both methods delay the build up of future corrosion. The only difficulty one may find in doing the job is the removal of the two calliper bolts on each calliper.

If it happened within the first couple of years - yes, maybe.