Johndouglas

In my experience mileage is more detrimental to a cambelt that years in service. Two of my family cars are both 1998 models and because of their low mileage, I didn't change their belts until 2010. Neither belt showed any signs of distress. However, I would not be happy to leave a belt on my car to the mileages that are now recommended. With my previous C5 I started to get anxious when it passed 80000 miles/7 years, and at that point, the belt was changed. In my opinion you need not be too worried yet.

Yes - they look smart. It's worth mentioning that when choosing replacement wheels it's important that not only the diameter and width is correct, but the offset of the rim must match as well. That's the measurement from the centre of the width to the face that fits to the hub. Some wheels have a positive offset whilst others have a negative.

I think many of these insulating improvement figures are purely theoretical. A few years ago I was told how wall insulation would make some fantastic savings; how 1/3 of heat loss was through the walls and how it would save £100 per year. Having had it done, there's no noticeable difference and very little by way of reduced bills.

EWP is the paint code and I believe the name of it is Blanc Banquise.

Hello & welcome to the forum. Does your car have an electric handbrake? Also I believe the two rear brakes callipers screw back in different directions. One clockwise and the other anticlockwise. Don't turn either of them so far that the piston becomes detached.

Hello & welcome to the forum. It's better not to put the same topic on two sections of the forum since it splits the replies so if you don't mind, I've deleted one of them. Regarding the topping up of Adblue, I can't see any reason why you would need to go to the dealer for him to do it. You can buy it, and get free delivery from several companies on ebay for around 20 litres for under 20 quid. I was recently in Spain and when refilling my tank with diesel, I noticed the Adblue dispensers on the forecourts. Since the pumps were there it can't be a major job to top up.

On a 2001 Xsara the pollen filter is up behind the glove box on the passenger side. Undo the three screws holding the carpet in place. The cover of the filter housing MAY have screws in it but if not slide the cover to one side releasing the internal holding clips. The pollen filter may then be pulled straight downwards. Make a note of the way it comes out - it has a bevel at one end. Replace the same way.

Which belt are you referring to? There are two belts; one we usually refer to as the cambelt, and the other as the auxillary belt. The cambelt is inside the engine and keeps the pulleys in their correct position. The auxiliary belt drives the alternator and air conditioning Both belts have the means to take off the tension before replacing it. Tell us more

Did you get the head checked to see if it was warped? It may need skimming. Did you use the correct torque and sequence for the head bolt tightening? I'm not familiar with your engine but maybe the bolts should have been replaced.

Hello & welcome to the forum. Regarding your daughter's car. Has the brake fluid ever been changed? If not it might be as well to get it done. Even if it has been changed it might be that the system has air in it and needs to be bled.

It's not a good idea to put the same question on three different forum sections. It splits the replies so I've deleted two of your topics. The quoted figure for your remaining fuel/miles is only a guestimate based on the type of running you've been doing in the previous 10 or 15 minutes. If you've been stationary with the engine running, the system will be confused and throw up a false forecast. Once you've done a bit of running I expect the forecast will sort itself out.

I'm not familiar with the petrol engines but there will be a tensioner pulley which needs to be released before the old belt can be removed. It's very easy to remove the old belt and then not remember the route for the belt to go back again. Take pictures or draw the route before you begin. If the petrol is similar to the diesels then access is through the wheel arch, having first removed the wheel and the arch liner.

If your engine is the 110 unit then the code is RHZ - but I thought the early Xsaras had the BE3 gearbox and the later ones the BE4

Are the callipers moving easily?

I wouldn't think a Berlingo would be any more complicated than my last two C5s. I wired the 12N requirements through a Smart 7 relay using Scotchlocs, then the 12S fridge and battery charging via two hefty cables direct from the battery to another relay in the rear of the car. On both C5s the arrangements worked very well.

You don't know the half of it.. :o

You need a Haynes Manual and there happens to be a secondhand copy on ebay for 8 quid. See eBay item number: 252296048778 My daughter previously owned a Xsara from new and she was well pleased with it. A very easy car to maintain.

If your engine has a hand primer, you won't have a lift pump in the tank. Where there is a lift pump, it only works for a very short time after switching on the engine. When you squeeze the hand primer, how does it feel, soft or firm? When was the fuel filter last changed?

I think it's safe to say that this car doesn't have a turbo otherwise it would be described as a ZXTD. So don't expect it to be a flyer. But it sounds a nice car - other than the auto box - to me it's just something else to go wrong. Also fuel consumption will be a bit higher than a manual car. XUD engines had earlier belt changes than more modern ones so get it changed ASAP. They are an easy belt to change - apart from the lack of space, because it will have automatic tensioning. Because of it's low mileage, pulleys won't need renewing. Get the aux. belt changed at the same time.

As Paul said earlier, C5 struts are prone to misting a bit at the top and under the shroud and many MOT guys who are not too familiar with Citroen suspension see it and assume it's leaking. With my previous C5 when I did a pre-MOT look around, I always gave the struts a wipe and they always passed. Give them a clean and get it re-tested.

The ZX will have a XUD engine in it. Is it a turbo or an atmo engine? Providing oil changes have been done at the appointed times, there's very little to go wrong with the engine. You can put any half decent semi-synthetic oil in it and a filter can be got for around a £5, Brake pads and discs will all be obtainable at GSF/ECP. Prices won't vary much between petrol and diesel.

Mk 1 or 2 C5 load covers are a completely different shape. Also the fixings are different.

Two renewal quotes from LV will be awaiting me when I return home in the next week or so. We usually have to do a bit of horse trading.

To post a picture click "More reply Options". When the new screen comes up go to the bottom left. Click where it says Browse. You then need to find your picture file. When you do, click on it. When it comes into the box, click "Open". Then below "Browse", click "Attach this file." If your file is larger than 1.95Gb you'll have to shrink it first. Click Add Reply.

Hello & welcome to the forum. Not many Xantia owners here but I have fond memories of owning a 1998 Xantia but with the 2.1 XUD.