Your Xsara isn't the only car where the front light bulbs are inaccessible. I have difficulty with both the Xsara and my C5. The Pug 306 and So are both of an earlier design and therefore dead easy. But as far as the Xsara goes, I find it's possible to change the headlight bulbs from under the bonnet, but the sidelight bulbs are impossible to reach, therefore I remove the bumper and unscrew the unit from the car. A few weeks ago when my daughter was away in the Xsara, she phoned me to say a headlight bulb had gone. I told her to go to Halfords. They changed it immediately and charged her £15 including the bulb.