Johndouglas

The difference in pressures between front and back is because of the weight carried by the two axles. Usually the front is slightly heavier - unless the car is fully loaded with passengers and luggage. In which case the rear pressures would be increased. I've also recently changed from Michelin to Avon, but in my case the fitter asked me what pressure I would like! I followed the advice on the door sticker.

Here we are:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/belt.jpg

There are dozens of different spheres for different Xantias. You need to know your exact model and whether for front or rear.

Here's a description taking the belt run in a clockwise direction, starting with the Camshaft pulley. Go up under the idler pulley. Round the PAS sprocket. Down to the tensioner - which should be loose, then up to the Alternator. Down to the A/c pulley and back to the Camshaft. Give me a couple of hours and I'll try and put up a diagram.

I disagree! I frequently drive overnight to the south of France. Previously I used my Xantia 2.1 which, if the headlights weren't properly masked, blinded on-coming drivers. The flashing main beams told me so. For two years I've used the C5 with its Xenons. I don't mask the beams and also, I don't get flashed.

The connector that might be suspect is the temperature sender. You'll find it (if you look hard!) on the right hand end of the engine. To reach it you will need to disconnect the trunking from the air cleaner and lift the pipe work upwards. Below where the pipe is situated, you'll see the sender plugged into the engine with the wire terminals connected to it. To get the connector off, there's a small lug which needs to be pressed down.

Mine is also just very slightly off centre. During it's first year, the front tyres wore down very rapidly. By 8000 miles they were down to 2mm. I took it for an alignment check and it was way out. They realigned the steering but afterwards I noticed the steering wheel slightly off centre. The tyre wear is now greatly reduced and the car doesn't veer to the side, so I just live with it. When I've had alignment done previously, the fitter has first clamped the steering wheel in the straight position, but my guy didn't.

Check the thermostat. As for the warning light/stop light flashing, my daughter's Xsara does the same thing. At the same time the temperature gauge drops to zero. I think the fault is due to some corrosion in one of the connectors. Since it rights itself after a few minutes, we just live with it.

I haven't fitted flaps to a C3 however, I've fited them to my C5 and the Xsara. I didn't use Citroen flaps either. Just Cannon flaps bought off Ebay - and no problems fitting them.

Are you sure you need to remove the bumper. I fitted a Witter towbar to my estate and wired two sockets, although not Citroen plug-ins, and at no stage did I need to remove the bumper; only the clipped-on underside cover.

That's useful to know. I'm afraid I assumed it would be similar to XUD's.

Of course, If you use a Smartcom, you don't need an ignition-live wire because the Smartcom is self-switching and detects when the alternator is charging.

Can we take it you fitted new pads? If so, did you wind back the calipers first?

You really need the same additive as what's already in there. However, if you're only talking about needing a cupful to bring the level to correct, then water will do.

My C5 does around 46mpg on the motorway, with a town/motorway average of 40. Towing a caravan manages about 30mpg, but increase the towing speed and the economy suffers.

A word of advice! If you are going to wire a Smartcom for battery and fridge use, don’t be tempted by the easy option and pick up a supply from the boot socket. It will give you poor results in the fridge. You need a cable of at least 2.5mm, taken direct from the battery to the relay, with a fuse close to the battery. I found the easiest way was to run the wire down the back of the engine, through the conduit under the floor, up over the fuel tank and through a hole put into the plastic plug under the rear seat. From there, it’s easy to get to the boot.

That looks good - but from the piccy can't see whether or not it has a Smart 7 relay. If it hasn't, you'll still need one. Also if you're towing a caravan you'll need a Smartcom for battery charging and fridge relay. Look at these:- http://www.towsure.com/product/1828-Self-S...mbination_Relay

The Citroen SM was built for only a few years in the early 70' and it was based on the DS. At the time, Citroen had bought up the Maserati company and they used a Maserati engine in it.

Have the engine running, go from high to low suspension setting, switch off. Undo the air bleed valve only one turn and after a minute or two, undo the sphere. Remove the old seal and fit a new one into the groove – not on the sphere. Taking care not to dislodge the seal, screw on the new accumulator hand tight. Close the bleed valve and start the engine.

From reading the previous posts, clearly ‘exclusive’ features are not carried over from year to year. My exclusive for instance doesn’t have satnav. Neither does it have leather seats or any wood panelling on the doors. It does have Xenon lights and you can tell from the appearance of the front. Also, lift the bonnet and the headlamp cases are marked Xenon X3. As dobby123 says, there’s an ‘exclusive’ label on the rear door pillar. Mine also has a Citroen labelled steel door tread on the front doors. In 2005 Exclusives also had front and rear mats fitted. A reversible boot mat. Tyre pressure sensors. Front and rear parking bleepers. 6 CD autochanger. Directional headlights and Suzuka alloys.

Before you worry too much about the gearbox, I should have the linkage rods and joints looked at.

Coolant sensors are notorious for misinforming. At the moment my daughter's Xsara has a similar problem. Only once in some journeys does her stop light come on, the coolant warning beeps and the temperature gauge zeros. All just for a minute - and then it's back to normal. I suspect the connector has slight corrosion and is causing a resistance. If you want to change the sensor, you need to drain off the coolant so that the level is below the sensor hole. Disconnect the wiring by pressing down the small catch. Use a spanner to unscrew the sensor and remove the sealing ring. The new one screws in.

If one of your pads has a spring on it, take it with you. There's different shapes and sizes. Also make a sketch of how its fitted before removing.

Some models have them and some don't - but the Xantias have anti-rattle springs holding the pads. Look along the racks at Halfords. You should find them in packets.

I think you're right. On your fuel pump the stop solenoid is integral with an anti-theft module mounted on the side of the injection pump. Could be that's where the trouble is.