paul.h

From the Haynes manual the adjuster screws are at the back of each headlight and a picture shows one in the middle between the main and dip beam bulb covers. Haynes does not give any more info but usually there will be 2 adjusters on each light, 1 to adjust sideways and 1 to adjust the height. An allen key may be needed and often there will be an access hole above the light so adjustment can easily be made from above but the bonnet still needs to be open. When I have adjusted lights I find it useful to have the car on a level road and pointing at a brick wall so the brick pointing can be seen lit up by the dip beam and then it is easy to see if the light pattern is about the right height by measuring the height of the level part of the beam at the car (shining on a leg for example) and then comparing this at the wall say about 3 to 5 m away where it should be a bit lower - if not then alter the relevant screw by a small amount. The point at which the beam goes from level and up to the left should be in line with the middle of each light, or slightly to the left. Before doing any adjustments it is worthwhile checking the bulbs are located correctly in the lights and that the lights are not loose or have not moved on the car.

What year and model is your C5 ?

Thinking about the insurance aspects and the door pillar sticker saying the original tyres were probably Michelin or Bridgestone, so there is the make as well as possibly a different rating and often the tyres supplied to the manufacturer are different to the ones you can buy. On our last C4 we had no choice when a new tyre was needed following a crash since Michelin stopped making the Exalto in the size needed and then the insurer would only pay for one tyre so it was different to the other 3 - it then pulled to one side but I do not know if it was the tyre or the repairs. If the rears are worn, it is now usual to put the new ones on the rear with the aim of having the best grip at the rear to help avoid a rear wheel skid which is harder to control than a front one. Years ago the new ones would go on the front to give better steering.

In the French RTA manual for the C5 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-Depuis-2008/dp/2726873758/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413901266&sr=8-1&keywords=9782726873755 ), there is a photo that shows a screwdriver or something similar being used to unclip the controller plastic surround. Starting at the lower edge inserting the screwdriver from above near the corner of the screen. It suggests there are 2 clips on the lower edge near the screen corners and 3 clips on the top edge with 1 in the middle and the other 2 just outside of the small screens.

On one of the front door pillars there will be a label with the tyre pressures and tyre size for your car so you can check if the 101 load rating is needed.

If you do not mind spending so much it seems ok and is similar to one I bought about 5 years ago covering Citroen/Peugeot/Renault as well as all cars with EOBD - a Sealey VS863. Having the abs and airbag coverage is useful. On the Sealey one though the live data has to be seen as EOBD (although I have not checked it on a pre EOBD car) so you would need to check that this would cover live data for your car. The Sealey one had a promise of updates but since it is no longer available from Sealey, updates are not available so Citroens from 2009 are only covered as EOBD and the Citroen specific codes on these cars are not covered. However, for £155 you could pay a dealer to find your current fault and have change for any parts (or a low cost reader for your next car). Whilst a code reader may give you a good indication on what repairs are needed, if more than the basic live data is needed to find the fault then a dealer type of diagnostic may still be needed. Copies of the dealer Lexia can be bought for around £100 to put on a lap top and this could be a better buy and some members on this forum have done this.

In the Citroen parts diagrams the hand pump comes with the fuel lines and is not listed separately but you could check with a dealer. With the fuel lines the price ranges from about £60 to about £100 depending on the car VIN. The pump size is not given in the parts diagrams. I have moved your post in to a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

Welcome to the forum. Some info in this post may help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20752-how-do-i-remove-locking-wheel-nuts-without-the-key/

Failures of the tyre pressure sensors are included in the Common Problems pinned post in the Technical Section. 26. Tyre pressure sensor failure. This seems to be a particular problem on the mark 3 C5 (2008 on) where the valve stems can crumble. It is possible to just replace the stems with a repair kit for £9.99, ref Robhall77. See http://www.citroen-o...sor/#entry75957 Plastic caps instead of metal will also help. I have moved your topic in to a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

On one of the front door pillars there is a sticker that gives the tyre pressures and tyre size for your car. It also has the RPO number and paint code. You may find the previous owner put 97 tyres on because they were lower cost than the correct ones or maybe they got a set of wheels with them already on.

This is from the Technical Section Common Problems pinned post: 10. The air conditioning only gives cold air at one side or does not cool much. The evaporator matrix cooling the air on the C5 is long and if the amount of refrigerant is low then there will not be enough to cool all the matrix for both sides of the cabin. First step should be a regass then if that does not work and there are no leaks then look at replacing the air flap control motors. A regass may be about £50, a flap new motor about £60. It could also be damage to the air flap shaft motor fitting - see this post http://www.citroen-o...c5-2002-aircon/ . I had to have both C5s regassed when about 7 years old, on the second one there was a printout that showed there was only 93 g of refrigerant left and that 525 g were put back in yet the air con was working and gas could be heard going through the pressure control valve but the air was not cooling much. The heater parts can be seen under Electric Unit/Comfort and Convenience/Heating Air Conditioning/Heater Detail. The temperature control flap motors are 6447RJ but check using your VIN.

On the parts diagrams the egr valve can be found under Mechanical/Engine/Emission Control/Gas Recycling Circuit. Whilst it may seem like a good idea to remove the dpf, this is no longer allowed and your car would fail the MOT and the insurance would not be vailid. There is a pinned topic on this which you have probably read. Have a look at the Technical section pinned Common Problems post for heating problems - not cooling with the air con and one side not having temperature control are covered.

Welcome to the forum. From memory, on the battery cover there is a flap which lifts up to reveal the battery positive terminal and on the battery end of the bonnet slam panel is a boss to use as the earth point/negative terminal. This is the same on the 2010 on C4. You need to be careful if using your car to jump start another one to avoid possible damage to your electrics. If in any doubt, then deny having the jump leads and refuse to do it, that is what the RAC/AA/etc are for and they are cheaper than repairing your car and I am sure the other car owner would not help with any costs. The following is copied from the C4 Technical section pinned Common Problems post: 12. Odd electrical problems after jump starting another car. This occurred on a Peugeot 406 but could apply to a Citroen. When jump starting another car a power spike caused the BSI software to become corrupt and the headlights would come on after the car was switched off and locked, causing the battery to go flat. It was possible to reprogramme another BSI to use but this may not always be the case, requiring a new BSI to be needed. The problem is when you are jump starting, the regulator on the running (good) car senses a drain on itself and allows the regulator to put out more power to maintain 14.4v and if you just pull the jump lead off you are causing a power surge until the regulator adjusts itself. 9 out of 10 times it is fine but the 406 customer was just unlucky. To help avoid this possibility when jump starting it is recommended to - connect jump leads making sure you put the negative lead onto the engine of the flat car - once the flat car is started do not take the leads off - go into the good car and switch on the rear demister, headlights and foglights. - then remove the jump leads - now switch the headlight and demisters off one at a time. This allows the regulator to catch up and regulate the power output. We are not talking about seconds here, its actually miliseconds for it to alter itself but its long enough to fry things.

This code reader from Gendan looks good value at £38.95 and it does some live data which is useful. However, you will need to check with them if it will do your car since diesel EOBD was only required from 2004 http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html Go by your handbook for the fuse since Haynes tries to cover all cars and will not always be correct. Where are you located ? Some members have said they may be able to help with diagnostic checks - see this pinned post http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20345-diagnostic-help/

Looking at the Citroen parts diagrams without using your VIN, if your screen is part no. 6593Q4 then a new one is about £670 from citroencarparts.net. Fitting is only about 20 minutes so labour would not be much and can not be difficult. There are a few notes in this post on removing the display http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20718-multifunction-display/ It may be worthwhile seeing if there any any loose connections on the screen before buying another one. This link shows somebody repairing a Toyota screen where it was probably a bad solder joint that gave a fault http://artsautomotive.com/publications/7-hybrid/117-prius-2nd-gen-repairing-the-multi-function-display/

Which engine is your car, 2 litre hdi from your other post but is it 90 or 110 bhp ? If the car is in eco mode, things like the radio will not work until the engine is run again (even after you charge the battery) so there is no need to worry about these. This is a Citroen/Peugeot thing to prevent the battery going flat and cuts in after the engine is stopped after a few minutes or more if something is being used but the time taken depends on the battery voltage. If the battery does not have a good charge it will not turn the engine over fast enough for it to start, I may have read somewhere it needs something like 300 rpm to start. Before deciding if you need a new fuel pump/tank level sender unit, you should check for voltage at the pump. The wiring diagram in the RTA C5 manual gives the pump fuse as F2 (30 amp according to Haynes manual) in the engine fuse box which takes its feed through a relay direct from the battery so no maxi fuses involved apart from ones to the ignition switch and bsi. At the pump the positive feed is shown as wire no. 1235 and its earth as M1235 but this can vary. You still need to get the fault code read though since this should save guessing what is wrong.

I am pleased this has worked and you did not buy another switch. I have now included a link to this topic in the Common Problems pinned post where Bobster's fix for the window anti pinch is mentioned.

Just checked the ebay link to the scrapper and the car is located in Lithuania. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Citroen-C5-mk-3-III-breaking-for-spare-parts-2l-Diesel-Manual-LHD-/321521735667?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4adc3057f3 Citroen sell the handle part separate to the door card and is listed under Hinged front side door trim finisher, not under Front hinged side door trim which only shows complete door cards, if you go to a dealer for the part. There are various part nos, depending on the seat/door card colours but using your VIN will get the right one. As an example, part no. 9342KG for the right door with tungsten decor is about £60 using citroencarparts.net for a cost. Another is about £100 for soft hot alu. So a respray may be the low cost option but it could end up a different shade to the other handles unless all 4 are done.

I often have to charge the battery on our C5 since it is not used too often. So over many disconnections/reconnections without needing to do a bsi reset, I have found the following always works and have included it in the C5, C4 and C3 Technical Section pinned Common Problems posts and resetting the window anti pinch is simply taking the windows down and then back up to the top (as noted in the handbooks). Whether Halfords know to let the bsi shutdown and start up I do not know. 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

In the November 2014 Car Mechanics magazine they list the top 10 most common mechanical faults. Number 1 is turbo failure on the PSA DV6 1.6 diesel engine used on Peugeots, Citroens and Fords. It may also be on Volvos but they are not mentioned.

As well as the connections John has mentioned, also check the plug in device is making good contact and its contacts are clean. Maybe remove it and shake it a bit and get somebody to hold it in whilst driving to see if it makes a difference when braking, etc. Also check the earth strap between the engine and body in case it has a bad connection or is breaking. Similarly check the battery cables to the alternator, etc to see if the internal wires are breaking. It could be when braking/accelerating the engine moves and affects the cables. If a cable insulation has worn off through rubbing, if you look under the bonnet in the dark and rev the engine you may see some sparks.

Welcome to the forum. Is the car a 2004 to 2008 C5 or a 2008 on model ? I have moved the topic into a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

We had a C4 repaired a few years ago following a crash and when I got it back from the insurer's repairer I found many things were not right. I wrote a list of all the things not right, contacted the insurer to say we were not happy with the repairs since they are responsible for the repairs and phoned the repairer to let them know. A recovery truck was sent to collect the car since we could not close the bonnet after checking the repairs. We then went there to go over the list, I also took copies of the Citroen parts diagrams to show parts that were missing. I took photos before the repairs so could show where bits were now missing. After a discussion it was agreed to complete the work and this was done well enough. Body shops may be good at spray jobs and cosmetic repairs but what is underneath also needs checking. I then decided in future I would prefer to use a Citroen dealer with their own body shop. In your case, put in writing what is wrong and do everything in writing, record any discussions, let your insurer know you are not happy and you could also try a Citroen dealer for their opinion. Take a lot of photos as well for your records and maybe of a new car at a dealer (or car supermarket). If the insurer's repairer will not/can not do the work properly, I would insist with the insurer the car is sorted elsewhere. Bear in mind the aim of the insurer is to minimise how much they pay out and for the repairer it is to do as cheap a job as possible since the insurer will not want to pay them much and have to agree to any costs. Despite this, it is important to you to get the repairs done correctly since it will affect the value of your car. It may be some insurers will replace a damaged car with a new one if less than a year old, so you could look at your policy to see if this is an option.

It may help you when looking for parts if you use or know the Citroen part nos. You can get these from the Citroen parts diagrams which can be seen as a free service on the service.citroen site. Register as an other professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Use your VIN (VIS) at the top left to find your car. If you look at the characteristics in the left column it will give you details of your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Without registering you can also read/save/print the handbook for cars from about 2007. For new parts, places like eurocarparts do many of them but sometimes the prices are not much different to Citroen and you may find your local Citroen dealer will give a discount if you ask/if you need many parts/become a regular customer. You can get the price of Citroen parts from citroencarparts.net using the part nos. in the search box top left They are a Peugeot dealer in Barrow and the prices appear to be discounted. I have found that some copy parts (C3 exhaust and rear lights) do not fit or perform as well as the Citroen ones so need to be a lot cheaper to warrant using them.

Welcome to the forum. If you do decide to go for the mark 2 C5 it is an improvement on the mark 1 and handles better. But it will have a dpf and at 60k miles may be only about 10k miles short of needing it cleaning/replacing and the eolys fluid topping up. Estates tend to be dearer than hatchbacks but having gone from a mark 1 hatchback to a mark 2 estate, I prefer the estate, it is better for moving a lot of stuff about.