paul.h

Welcome to the forum.

glenns44 has not been on the forum since 8th September so we do not know the outcome of the insurance assessor visit.

Welcome to the forum. How many years did it take to do the 300k miles ?

If possible I would fit the injectors in the same cylinders as they were removed from in case each one has a different code number - however, a check in the C3 Haynes manual makes no mention of coding so possibly it does not apply. Only says to use a bit of oil on the seals to help fitting. On our 2003 C3 1.4 petrol, for some reason Citroen numbered the cylinders from the gearbox end, so if you do any diagnostic checks and cylinder numbers come up, it is possible the number 1 cylinder could be at the gearbox end.

First thing you could do is swap the passenger and driver seat switches over to see if it needs a new switch. They seem to have the same part no. so should be the same. The switches may contain a thermostat but it looks as if the timer is a separate part listed with the seat cushion so it may be amongst the wiring under the seat (the procedures do not mention where it is). If you can find the timers you could also try swapping these. There is also a seat controller listed for each seat so maybe this could be swapped. Whilst the switch is disconnected you could check for a 12 volt supply to them both as a comparison. Also look under the seat to see if any connectors are loose. There may also be a thermostat in the heating element in the seat - I had one fail on a Saab once but simply joined its connectors together and when the seat was hot enough, just switched it off. To see the parts diagrams as a free service, register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Use your VIN (VIS) to find your car. The seats can be found under Equipment then front seat cover and front seat frame. If you look under the left column Characteristics it will give details of your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

Welcome to the forum. In the Petrol Diesel and LPG Injection section there is a list of fault codes and for P1352 it gives : P1352 Ignition Coil A Primary Circuit Malfunction. This can also be a glow plug problem from another post - P1352 Ignition coil A Primary circuit Malfunction / SID 801- Pre/Post heating relay circuit - Relay & Pre-Heat plugs not controlled Since your car is not a petrol this will indicate the glow plug problem. I would delete the code and see if it comes back Also you have not mentioned any running problems so unless it is becoming difficult to start you can leave it for now.

It is good these problems are not costing anything to fix other than a bit of time. If the previous owner had known they may not have sold the car. The mark 1 C5 was from 2001 to 2004, the mark 2 from 2004 to 2008 and is a face lift on the previous version with different headlights and grill being obvious external differences and the hatchback having lights partly in the boot lid. The mark 3 is the completely new version from 2008.

If you used the injectors from the replacement engine or new ones, then I think you would need to program the ecu with the codes off the injectors. But using the original ones this would not be needed. Do not throw the ones away though from the replacement engine since there may be nothing wrong with them.

The fuse box to check for F20 (10 amp) is the one inside the glove box behind the small pull out panel at the left side. A picture in the RTA C5 manual shows fuses F13 to F25 are the front bottom row, number increasing from left to right. If the radio lights up though I would think the fuse is ok. Next thing would be to pull the radio out to see if the connectors at the back are in place. To remove the radio, remove the covers at each end and undo the screws holding it in place. If the radio has been a replacement from a diferent car it would need coding to your car before it would work.

Welcome to the forum. If it is the 6 speed AM6 gearbox then Citroen's procedures give this: Type of oil : EURO 5 engine : AW-1 oil EURO 4 engine : JWS 3309 ESSO oil Oil capacity :Dry gearbox oil capacity : Approximately 7 litres Volume of oil remaining after draining (converter, receivers, etc.) : Approximately 4 litres Quantity of oil to fill after draining : Approximately 3 litres If it is the AT6 gearbox the oil type is not given but capacities are the same. If it is the AL4 gearbox they give this but not the type of oil: CAUTION : Special semi-synthetic based oil that does not mix with another oil. The gearbox is lubricated for life.Total oil capacity : 5,85 litres.Capacity after draining : 3 litres. If it is a piloted gearbox they give this: Oil capacity : 1,8 litre.Oil quality : 75 W 80.Check the oil level : No check of oil level(*).Lubrication interval : Lubricated for life.

Welcome to the forum. This post may help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21920-entered-incorrect-radio-code/

I would look at them all, decide if you prefer an estate or hatchback and then buy on condition/service history and likely immediate costs such as new tyres/any existing problems. Look at the Common Problems pinned post for some things to check but ideally make sure everything works and there are no suspension fluid leaks, creaks from the rear suspension and the rear wheels do not lean in at the top (possible rear arm bearings need replacing) They will all have a dpf but you need to make sure it has not been removed since it would then fail the MOT. At about 70k miles the dpf will need replacing/cleaning and the eolys fluid topping up, so if not done then you need to allow a few hundred pounds for this. The exhaust tail pipe on our cars that have a dpf has been clean metal internally - if you see one that is black with soot then suspect the dpf has been removed. The VTX will have a sat nav which I find useful but it may not have up to date maps unless paid for at a dealer. Mine is still on the 2007 maps and these are still ok since not many new roads are built and then I can always use a nearby one that is on the maps. The auto will give poor fuel economy (39 mpg combined) and has the potential for high bills if it has problems and it will cost more in tax (£265 vs £180). The 2.0 hdi will have the best fuel economy (47 mpg combined) but the 2.2 hdi will not be too far behind (45 mpg combined). I went from a mark 1 hatchback to a mark 2 estate (2.2 hdi VTX) and prefer it to a hatchback although it is a bit longer. If you are going to be towing a caravan the 2.2 hdi has the highest kerb weight.

Page 128 of a C5 handbook for 2010 gives this for the Dark button so maybe you can achieve what you want by using this: DARK Short successive presses: One press: Display of radio, time and temperature only. Two presses: Display off (blank display). Three presses: Return to the standard display.

Welcome to the forum. Check the service receipts which will have the mileage on them but do not believe what is in the service book. Also check the old MOT certificates and this can also be checked on-line which will give details of all the MOTs and any failures from 2005. For the on-line check you will need either the MOT certificate number or the car V5C reference number https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle You can try the on-line check against your existing car to see what details to expect.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. Is the car from a dealer with a warranty ? If so and it is more than just the height sensor link, then I would be in touch with the dealer since any repairs could prove expensive if new parts are needed. The link may be part no. 527381 and there may be 1 or 2 at the back, and 1 or 2 at the front but possibly also a different part no. depending on which engine you have. The links are about £3 each. To check the suspension fluid level, Citroen's procedures say to connect the car to diagnostic equipment, remove the lds tank cap, use the equipment to depressurise the suspension (takes about 3 minutes) and then look at the fluid level in the filler neck filter - it should be between the top of the lowest vertical bars and the top of the next bars above. Once the car has lowered, if necessary top up with fresh lds fluid and refit the cap. On the earlier models of C5 (to 2008), the procedures say to lower the suspension to its lowest level, switch off the engine, use diagnostic equipment to depressurise the suspension, remove the lds tank cap and then check the level. However, it seems to be usually done by just lowering the car, removing the cap (which will release a bit of air pressure) and checking the level. If this is all that is needed for the 2008 on model I do not know.

The navi drive on our 2007 C5 does not have a Mode button, but if the Dark button is pushed twice the screen goes off completely.

Thankyou for getting back to us and I am pleased it has worked.

Good luck with this. How did you get on at the MOT ?

Rain could have something to do with it since it will get inside the door at the window lower seal and maybe it is getting to the wiring, electrical connector and lock. You could test this on a dry day when the lock is working and then use a watering can or other means to apply water over the door glass and see if the lock still works. May be you will need to remove the door inside panel to have a look for the cause of fault.

If you can believe what is on wikipedia, then adblue is dosed at 2 to 6% of the diesel use and it must go in to the exhaust. The idea is a lean burn diesel engine with excess oxygen is used that does not give soot but the adblue is to remove NOx. It is 32.5% urea and 67.5% water. In the exhaust catalyst, the urea decomposes to carbon dioxide and ammonia which converts the NOx to nitrogen and water. At 6% dosage, for every 50 litre diesel fill you would need to fill with 3 litres of adblue. You can imagine the diesel pumps with an adblue pump at filling stations will lead to more time/queues and if there are 2 filling pipes on the car in the same place, somebody will mix up the 2.

I hope that is not right, about 1 litre of adblue to 10 litres of diesel. From above adblue is £1.60 a litre, 10 litres of diesel now about £13 and if 10 miles a litre (45 mpg) gives a total cost of about £14.60 for 100 miles, or 14.6 p/mile including adblue 1.6 p per mile. So adblue is of the order of 10 to 20 times the cost of eolys which uses about 3 litres in 80k miles at a cost of around £100, or about 0.1 p per mile. Also every time the diesel tank is filled then the adblue tank would need filling.

As a moderator I have been able to edit the title. If you hold down the Mode button does the screen come back on again ?

Welcome to the forum. It is possible there is nothing wrong with your car. However, it needs checking. Our 2003 1.4 petrol C3 a couple of times went to max temp on the bars and the high temperature light came on and the fan was running. Checks did not show anything and on the second time I used the cabin heater on max temp and air flow to remove more heat from the engine with a window open and slowed down and this brought the indicated temp down. Checks needed: - anti freeze level in the header tank is not low and the tank cap is sealing and you can not hear bubbles going round the coolant piping when sat in the car with the engine running (a sign air needs bleeding out which could happen if the anti freeze has recently been drained/refilled). - the engine oil level is between min and max. - the thermostat is opening - the top radiator hose should be hot. - the engine fan starts at 96°C on low speed and then high speed if the temperature does not come down. - there are no anti freeze leaks. - check for oil in the anti freeze, anti freeze in the oil, more steam than normal in the exhaust - these are to look for signs of a cylinder head gasket failure. - use a code reader with live data to see what temperature the coolant sensor is showing - should be the outside temperature before starting the engine, then rise to about 90 to 96°C with the thermostat opening about 89°C. Other members have reported the high temp coming on soon after starting the engine and replacing the temp sensor cured the fault. If you have a 1.4 petrol engine then there are 2 temp sensors on the gearbox end of the cylinder head - one for the gauge and engine fan and another for the high temp alert - but both will give the high temp alert. - check the wiring to the temp sensor is in good condition. - the radiator is not blocked on the outside. - you can also check the brakes are not binding which would require the engine to work harder. - if it happens again, turn off the air con if it is on, put the cabin heater to max temp and the blower to max flow and see if it helps. In our case, the 2 events were 1 year apart, once after use on the M62 and the other whilst on the M62 going up a hill. Later I changed the thermostat, anti freeze and water pump whilst replacing the timing belt and the problem never happened again. A check on the old thermostat did not show a problem. The temp sensor seemed to be indicating correctly from live data and the engine fan cut in as it should.

Welcome to the forum. As you have said, from the parts diagrams the seat back is supplied as one piece with the cloth cover. citroencarparts.net lists it at about £510 but you may be better trying to get a seat from a breakers. You could consider injecting something like an expanding foam in to the seat if the cloth is separated from the foam, but it may need a small cut for the nozzle which could then be stitched up. However, I have never tried this and an internet search suggests it could make a mess, come through the cover and possibly react with the existing materials. One idea though was to push in the fluffy material used in things like soft toys. If the cloth can be stitched after cutting it, then you could put in pieces of foam and foam glue to pack it out.