paul.h

An internet search on P1113 gives Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor circuit open/short. So may be nothing to do with the fuel supply. Only info I have seen on the hpi gives a fuel pressure of 5 bar = 72.5 psi, so are your pressures in psi and not bar ? Rather than replacing lots of bits, presumably at great expense, it may be better/cheaper to have a dealer look at it although a look at the temp sensors and their wiring and connectors would be worth doing first.

Disconnect the battery from the car before attaching the charger. I vaguely remember somebody here having electrical problems afterwards when not disconnecting it, but may have been a coincidence. Before disconnecting it, check the battery voltage, if fully charged it should be 12.7 volts without the engine running and below about 12.3 volts is fully discharged. If it does not go to 12.7 volts then maybe it is on its way out and due for replacement - Eurocarparts are lowish cost for new ones. Before disconnecting the battery, remove the ignition key and wait a few minutes first for everything to shutdown. Reconnecting is covered in the handbook but should be done slowly - connect battery, wait a bit, put key in ignition, wait a bit, turn key to first position, wait a bit, turn key so dash lights up, wait a bit (a minute or more), start engine, put elec windows down to bottom and then to top to reset anti pinch, reset clock.

'I'll have to make something up to do that' Possibilties include getting the part from Citroen (there has always been one with the jack in our cars) or a long bolt of correct thread and cutting the head off. Cost probably similar for both.

Sometimes I think the site is not available and returns errors but is ok for most of the time. Just have to keep trying each day until it comes back. I do not usually have problems with searches as long as suitable words are used. Aussifrogs and Frenchcarforum are 2 other sites sometimes mentioned on here. The FAP is part of the exhaust just after the catalyst and bolts in place.

Something else to consider is the exhaust particulate filter (FAP) may be blocked up and need cleaning out or replacing or, as some have done, removing its internals. There are a number of posts on this, some have water jetted the filter and got a lot of ash out and then put it back. Dealer costs for changing the filter and refilling the eolys fluid are many £100s so on an old car are not really economic. Service interval for this work depends on the model year but may be 50k or 75k miles and seems to give an anti pollution error message if not done.

'I spotted the bigger power connector under the small plug and gave it a tug = It fell off the pump! oh' I assume simply reconnecting this plug fixed the problem since you have not said.

Just remembered, the button on the left of the speedo alters the brightness of it but may need the lights on for this.

Welcome to the forum, we all started by just asking a question so no problems there. You can access/print pages from the car handbooks on the service.citroen website, also if you register (allowed as a member of a car club such as this, see the terms and conditions)you can also see the parts diagrams as used at the dealers and also purchase extra info. The handbooks only go back a few years but the oldest will not be too far out. The car does not have a trip computer but the trip indication/total mileage button is at the right of the speedo. If this is held in the trip will reset to zero. The fuel guage is about 1½ gallons for each bar so for ours is about 65 to 70 miles (2003 1.4 SX petrol). Should be 6 bars when full. The temperature gauge is similar and ours runs on 3 bars but in cold weather others report only 2 bars.

May be worth looking under the bonnet for any hose leaks and also the exhaust pipe at the joint at the end of the down pipe since the mesh gasket could be leaking (assuming it to be the same design as the petrol engine one).

Welcome to the forum. I vaguely remember on this site a post about the fan not stopping but can not remember what it was but it will be somewhere on this site, so a search may show something. May not have been a C5 or on the C5 subsection so check all the site. Failure of the outside temp sensor in the door mirror (small lump on the bottom needing mirror removal to get at it) seems common and is sorted by replacing it. However, since other things are also not working then maybe there is a problem with the wiring where it enters the door or a common earth point - might be one near the right driver's foot but not sure. Auto lights - is the windscreen at the top where the light sensor is located clean ?

The wheel centering device is a rod with a thread on the end to use in place of a wheel bolt so it helps position the wheel - never bothered using it though, just adds to the time.

The timing belt is every 100000 miles so it probably has been done. However, for your own benefit maybe you should change it anyway since I think I have read here that they are prone to failure on the 2.2 hdi. It is possible to remove a bit of the top timing belt cover to see part of the belt without much effort, as a stop gap to have an idea of its condition. The normal service interval is 12500 miles and counts down so the car has done 4000 miles since it was last reset. Resetting can be done by anyone and is covered in the car handbook so is not proof of a service. If the car has been dealer serviced then its history should be on their computer systems so you could check at your local Citroen dealer. We have a 2.2 hdi and that accelerates well from low revs (peak torque is about 1800 rpm) in all gears so you may have a problem. 0 to 60 mph is supposed to be about 10 to 11 seconds so should not be slow. Usual one to check is at the top left hand end (gearbox end) of the engine is an actuator linked by a plastic socket on a metal ball (Citroen call it a diaphragm) that breaks off. Replacement has been covered on this site so a search should find it. Often a pollution warning message will appear but not in my case. Not sure about the window switch, maybe it needs an internal clean of the contacts, maybe broken wire at the door to pillar section.

Mark 1 2.0 hdi from the maintenance book with our car, mark 1 2.2 hdi vtr 2004. Servicing should be every 12500 miles or 2 years but for severe use (short trips in town) is every 10000 miles or each year. Most of this though is just an engine oil/filter change each time and then others depending on mileage for air/fuel filters at 37500/40000 miles, pollen filter and brake/clutch fluid change every 2 years. Rest of the servicing are level checks and checks which the MOT does but you also need to give the brakes a clean every 1 or 2 years so they do not bind with brake dust. The service spanner, when you first start up it gives the mileage to the next service for a few seconds and the engine oil level but when near in miles or date, then it may count down in 50 miles each day it is started. Once past the date the spanner will stay on and give the miles after the due date in minus 50 mile lots each daily start. At least this is how our C3 went around the due date. So it looks as though your car is at least due an oil change based on 12 months since the last time the service indicator was reset (which can be done by anyone following the instructions in the handbook, so without any receipts is not a guarantee of a service being carried out).

Should be the same as a C3 and following is from the French RTA manual so should still apply. Make sure the headlight is secure and not loose. Put the dash mounted level switch to position 0. Adjust with the car level (and not laden down with passengers or a full boot) and pointed a few metres from a wall to see where the dipped light beams aim. The light adjusters are on the back of the headlight, a white one should adjust the horizontal position (I think it may be turned by an allen key) and in the central dip above the bulb cover is the vertical adjuster which might need a spanner or socket to turn it. Make any adjustments a part turn at a time whilst looking at the light pattern on the wall, so that the beams are aimed slightly down and where the beam level part starts to turn up to the left is just slightly to the left of an imaginary line going through each car light to the wall. Both light patterns should be set the same so if one was already ok then setting the other to be similar should be ok. Sometimes an MOT tester will adjust the lights at very little cost (if any) whilst the car is on the MOT testing machine since it only takes a few minutes. Somewhere on the internet (dft.gov site) can be found the MOT testers manual which has a diagram giving the expected light pattern (section 1.8) - find by searching MOT testers manual.

LX (SX on earlier models) is the base model, VTR the next one up and then the exclusive. VTR will have VTR near the back side windows, alloy wheels, a sport button on the suspension switch next to the handbrake although this may only be the 2.2 hdi VTR, electric rear windows, auto wipers, auto headlights, leather steering wheel, front passenger seat height adjustment as well as driver, arm rests on the front seats, rear central arm rest, alarm, extra functions on trip computer.

If the squeal is from the rear brakes, have a look at the pinned post on rear brakes on the Problems and Fixes first page on how to fix it (cleaning and greasing needed). Essentially corrosion occurs between the steel suspension arm and the alloy brake caliper which pushes the caliper out and in the process causes the squeal but if bad enough can result in the caliper catching the wheel. It is something that needs doing every couple of years.

Thanks for giving the feedback, gives the rest of us C3 owners something to watch out for and I hope it was not expensive.

Possibilities for the front could include a sticking height sensor fastened to the anti roll bar. Others have reported problems with these and is cured by spraying with something like WD40 to free it off. Have a search for this. The rear could include problems with the suspension arm bearings - again this is on the site.

I have now had the air con regassed and the driver and passenger sides now both feel the same cold temperature. I have not checked the temperatures yet but they are a lot lower than before. It was not that expensive either, my dealer does a regas inc oil and dye for just under £50 or the same with a new pollen filter and deodorising for £89.99, which is not that bad considering the charcoal pollen filter is over £30 (even at places such as Eurocarparts). Interestingly, the deodoriser used smells just like the anti bacterial surface cleanser (non bleach type) by Dettol that I have used previously. No MOT failures either, though when cleaning the rear brakes/greasing the caliper suspension arm joint a few days ago I noticed a rear bump stop was hanging off since it had perished. I temporarily stuck it back with sealant whilst a new one is on order (about £11) but it managed the MOT.

On many cars there is a resistor pack that sets the different speeds and these frequently fail. If there is one on the AX (I do not know), then a dealer should supply a new one.

Haynes do not do a manual for the new C5 tourer/saloon yet (and if like the earlier C5 it will be many years away). However, there is a French one by ETAI (Review Technique Automobile) which can be obtained direct from the ETAI website and Amazon's French site. Cost is about 36 euros inc delivery. ETAI are quick and only take a few days to deliver. These are good with lots of line drawings and photos and with a bit of help of a dictionary (or internet translations) are fairly easy to use. There may also be a mechanics handbook on the service.citroen website that can be downloaded once registered. Ones for the earlier C5 are useful although in some ways not as good as a Haynes since some knowledge of techniques working on cars is implied. So far I have not had any bother with anti theft nuts but I always use a torque wrench when tightening them or after somebody else has done. If you have alloys, then make sure you remove them and put a smear of copper grease on the contact points on the hub asap since they tend to corrode and stick to the hub. A long length of 3x2" wood is useful to hit against the inside bottom of the tyres to help the first removal.

The air con should cool the outside air by about 10°C (any less and it is probably short of refrigerant gas). If you have a thermometer, hold it in front of the central air vents, turn auto off, put the blower on full with flow to these vents and the air con on lowest temp setting and see what you get. You should also hear the air con compressor clutch clicking in/out so you know it is working. As a 58 reg it should still be under the Citroen 3 year warranty so only take it back to Citroen or risk losing the warranty if somebody else touches it first.

Just had a look on the service.citroen site at the parts diagrams and the different engine sizes have different part numbers for the MAF sensors - all start 1920 but then have 2 letters which are different depending on the engines. The 1.4 hdi 90 engine is 1920LC. Have you tried refitting the old one to see if the fault code goes ?

http://www.compressortech.co.uk/images/cutaways/SD7V16.jpg Found this site which shows a cutaway of the compressor. If the link does not work, just paste above into a google search and it will be found.

Something to check - on the rear calipers there is a metal cover over the pads held on by a long bolt that also holds the pads in place - maybe this is loose although its bolt holes are slots so if loose it most likely would fall off. There are also cases of corrosion on the caliper where this bolt goes through so there is nothing holding the bolt in place. Could also be the back plate has not been tightened up if it has been removed to allow the disc to be changed (I vaguely remember this when changing the rear discs).