paul.h

I would possibly discuss with your dealer since on many cars the speed is derived from the abs system so could be a fault here and not the ecu.

If you do not have an obvious leak then it could be being burned due to engine wear (piston rings/valve guides seals), a failed cylinder head gasket putting it into the coolant (but would be seen there) or being lost at the turbo due to wear or possibly a blocked oil return pipe. You should be seeing other symptoms such as a smokey exhaust and possibly the engine not stopping running. How many miles has the car done ?

For the air con to work you need to have the cabin fan running also.

The aerial should be screwed on to the outside of the roof at the back.

The MOT testers manual is available on-line to read on the direct gov website (from memory) so should tell you about tyre sizes and position on the car. As for putting new tyres on the rear, this has been around for some time and is based on something like it helps prevent a rear wheel skid which would be harder to control than a front one. The correct tyre size will be on a door pillar sticker. If you went for the slightly larger diameter ones, you may find your speedo is a bit out and your abs may come up with a problem. Would it also have an effect on your insurance not having the recommended tyre size ?

I would compare the cost of a new or welded manifold and the guarantee you get and base it on that. Also consider how long you will keep the car. Also ask why the manifold has failed, it could be something like an engine mounting or exhaust mounting that needs replacing. Please ignore the spam, this site is getting alot and the moderators are struggling to remove it.

Noel, pleased you have found the cause of the problems, would never have guessed it. I have seen posts on this site about connecting up radios and it may be you just need the right cables. Have a good search, possibly on the C3 subforum or the ICE one. Please ignore all the spam, this site is being hit a lot recently and we are short of moderators to remove it all.

Possibilities now could include a problem with the brake light switch at the pedal, a bad earth point at the back of the car for the rear lights, corrosion in the bulb holders, loose wiring connectors at the rear lights, a wrong type of bulb fitted.

The sport button is supposed to make the suspension firmer. I use it when towing the caravan to stop the car rocking as much on uneven roads, if there are strong side winds so it does not roll as much and sometimes on bendy roads.

Could be your reverse light switch mounted on top of the gearbox is stuck in the reverse (on) position. Removal and cleaning may fix it or replacement with a new one. If you remove its wiring connector and the lights then go out you will know the switch is at fault.

I suspect you are going to have to visit your local Citroen dealer and let them do some diagnostic checks or they may already have come across this before.

The handbook does say to raise the car to max height before jacking it up. Some people have reported a lot of problems with the suspension when not doing this (or a garage has not done it) so you seem to have been lucky.

If your car is a C5, I would copy this post to the C5 section, you may get a few replies there. Also add a bit more info on the car such as engine size, model year, mileage, any recent work done such as servicing.

For a normal ethylene glycol coolant, these days about 50% strength is frequently recommended although 30 years ago 25 to 33% may have been normal. First check that the coolant you have is not prediluted. Tap water is usually used, distilled water would only be used in a battery. Have a look round for a leak since the level should not be going down.

Could be a fault with the comms unit which is the combined indicator/light stalk, wipers stalk and the unit below the steering wheel. They come as one part, cost over £100. Probably best to get your dealer to confirm.

When I have had to replace a clutch symptoms have been juddering when letting the pedal up on one and the clutch slipping on others so that the engine speed increased but not the car. A whining noise could be the clutch release bearing has failed. The pedal has only stayed at the floor though when the master cylinder at the pedal which pushes the clutch fluid out to the clutch (as for brakes) has needed replacing. On the 2.2 hdi I believe you have a dual mass flywheel which should also be replaced at the same time as the clutch (if your clutch does need replacing). To get an idea of parts costs you could look on the eurocarparts website and labour costs will be a few hours.

The FAP on a C5 2.2 hdi is a cylinder in the exhaust just after the catalyst. There are small pipes either end to measure the pressure to check if it is blocking up. Also on start up, there is no smoke and the exhaust is clean at the exit, not covered in soot. You could use eurocarparts website to see if it lists one for your car. You could also register on service.citroen.com to look at the parts diagrams against your vin.

What car have you got ? Even if you only wired up the stop and indicator lights for day light use, I suspect it would be illegal and what if poor lighting such as rain when you need the rear lights and no. plate lights. I have seen on this site that people have wired up the 12N socket without a 7 way relay but when we did ours (C5 2.2 hdi 2004 mark 1) we also needed a 12S for the caravan so wires had to be run from the battery so no more effort to run one for the 12N also.

Check the car battery voltage, should be about 12.5 volts and 14 ish with the engine running. If the voltage is low, on starting our car, the clock/date needs resetting but the radio has still kept its stations. Our car could do with a new battery and of a larger capacity to cope with colder weather. Also maybe the battery in the key fob may be due replacement, have you tried the spare key fob ? Does the car unlock in different locations since sometimes ours seems to be affected by interference and the fob does not lock or unlock the car.

A few times I have had the unlock or lock button not work at home and elsewhere on either of the keys but the door lock has worked with the key in it. It may work by the button if you leave it for a while. I have put it down to interference, maybe mobile phone or mast or internet and there was a case on the news some time ago where a restaurant had installed a wireless handheld card reader which was working at the same frequency and was causing car locking problems.

I had a turbo fail on a petrol Saab, smoked on start up but only for a few seconds for about 6 months and then one day when leaving a motorway the car was surrounded by a cloud of smoke. Fortunately it did not break up and put lumps of metal into the engine but still expensive - new turbo, lambda sensor and catalyst. If I had done it sooner, as in your case, the costs and risks to the engine would have been lower. Make sure any oil is drained out of the intercooler otherwise it will still smoke for some time.

In the handbook there is a procedure to follow when reconnecting the battery, something like connect it, wait a few minutes, switch on the ignition but not turn the engine, wait a few minutes then start the engine, wind the windows down and then up. The radio may need retuning but the central display clock/date will need to be reset - hold down the left button until it flashes then use the right button to make changes then push the left button to advance to the next bit to change and continue until the language, date and time are set.

If it is the same 1.4 petrol as in the C3, the temperature sensor is at the right hand (as you look at it) of the cylinder head. Have a look and see if the connector or its wiring are loose or the contacts are dirty. If not, the sensor may be faulty, about £25 for a new one. Could also be a faulty thermostat, a coolant leak (check the level is ok), an air lock in the coolant, faulty water pump, at worst a failing head gasket.

There is a good post that may be relevant 'C5 taxi woes' by Miked started 6th Jan 2011 on these pages (probs and fixes) and is worth a read. At 150k miles the car is probably due for its second exhaust filter change and eolys fluid refill.

Could be the pipe to the rear jets is blocked. There is only one pump for the front and back and it turns in opposite directions to feed the front or back.