paul.h

Coastline, there was something similar earlier this year on the C8 probs/fixes pages. glynnpt had a stuck injector (as well as head gasket failure which was the start of the work) and this is a copy of one of the posts and who sorted it. It started December 2010, last post Feb 2011. Found by a search on all forums using 'injector' but the full posting is still on the first page of the C8 Problems and Fixes. The link gives a phone no. so they may help with advice. ------------------------------- update.went to this place:- http://www.ptsdevelopments.com/ in Woking. They are Citroen specialists. The owner is, I suppose, a Citroen fanatic. He just completed a similar job, as a result of the broken cam belt problem, which included having to mill out an injector and replace it. I think it also included some stuff with valves and other sundries. Cost was between £2000 and £3000. The Owner Pete Sparrow talks you through every thing that has to be done, giving rough ideas of prices and you get to be able to make an informed assessment about whether it is the route you want to take. You can visit the workshop whenever you like and you can see the state of your engine. He often stays late into the evening, so you can go after work. He will take photos and email them to you. I was lucky, all the injectors came out. He has a contact with hydraulics, exerting some amazing force on them. I can see why they are a problem. I can send pics if anyone is interested. The saga will continue.

I have not done either if these (washer tank or fuel tank) on the C5 but as a minimum you will check the condition of the o rings, only depends on whether you want to visit a dealer to buy the bits before you start the work.

Have you started the cabin fan first and can you hear the air con compressor clutch clicking in and out ? If yes to the first and no to the second it could be the refrigerant gas has leaked out.

I have had a quick look and only been able to see ones from 2008. Appears only current models are available on-line unless they are hidden somewhere.

Citroen have tried to copy German cars (pointed out in their ads) and these are not known for their reliability, so maybe this aspect has been copied. Maybe being a completely new model, customers are finding the faults and as the car is further developed it will improve. This is one reason for not buying a new model when it first comes out but waiting until it has been around for a few years. Pity the prices of used ones are so high.

Sounds more like a fuel problem than ecu from your description. Could be the fuel lines are draining back or maybe there is a pressure switch in the fuel rail which is faulty and it takes some time for the fuel system to be up to pressure before the engine is allowed to start. Your best option may be to visit your Citroen dealer who will have the diagnostic equipment to check the fuel presure.

Had a look and on our 1.4 petrol engine (code KFV) there are also 2 lines and it appears the numbers used on the V5C are a mix of both. Our V5C no. is FSG342xxxx2 - where x is a number. On the engine, top row is - KFV 10FSG3 bottom row is - PSA shield shape 42xxxx2 shield shape Hence from the top row KFV 10 are ignored and on the bottom row PSA and the shield shapes are ignored to give the 11 digit no.

Just had a look at the one on our C4 above the radio. We do not use it so it opened without any problem but it does not seem to be easily removable to allow it to be cleaned up. I could only guess that something like WD40 sprayed in to the moving bits at the sides may help lubricate and clean it. Have a look on the C4owners.org forum to see if there are any posts there.

With abs brakes, they are meant to still work when the abs part is faulty but the abs will not function if needed. To find out what is wrong, the abs fault code will need to be read, a normal low cost engine code reader will not do this so if you are going to use a non Citroen garage, first ask if they can read the abs codes. Ideally a Nexia/Proxia (?) reader would be used although Sealey do a Citroen one which can read abs codes. I have seen posts that people on the frenchcar forum help each other in reading codes so something to have a look at (not tried it myself).

Could be the temp sensor is faulty and needs replacing (about £20). How quickly does the temp gauge go up and does it show more than 3 bars lit up, although on our car (1.4 petrol) the fan starts whilst still on 3 bars but if connected to a code reader with live data it starts at 96°C which is correct. If you bridge the sensor connector this is like a very high temperature (and may give an error code for an earth fault) since as the sensor gets warmer, its resistance reduces - it would be better to bridge it with a resistor of a few thousand ohms. Ideally, you need to plug in a code reader with live data and see what the gauge is showing, if 96°C or above the fan will come on until it shows less. Haynes wiring diagram shows fuse 8 (20 amp) in the engine fusebox is for the fan and also shows a relay there but not which one. However, on the section on fan removal it mentions a relay may be located on the fan shroud, so could be there.

Easiest way to turn the engine is to put it in gear (first or reverse but if turns too fast then second) and then push the car a touch whilst watching the points/rockers/etc. Other option if access is ok and probably more accurate, is with the gears in neutral, to use a socket/ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turning it clockwise so it does not undo. It may help to undo the spark plugs so it is easier to turn but probably not necessary. If you do not have them, a timing light and dwell meter will come in handy.

Could be a faulty level gauge in the fuel tank or bad wiring connection at the tank. The washer piping to the front may be blocked at the tank end. The pump goes in opposite directions for front and rear but if one direction pipe is blocked it will go down the other.

If the noise is from the back it could be the fuel pump. Try also posting on the C4owners.org forum, this is more active for the C4 than this forum.

A quick look in the Haynes C3 manual shows the engine no. begins with the engine code which for the 1.1 is HFX, so you would think this should be the one to use, BUT, our C3 engine code is KFV for the 1.4 petrol yet its no. on the V5C form starts FSG3... with 11 digits in total. The 3 letter engine code though always appears in the middle of the VIN. Next time I have the bonnet up I will have a look.

You can also read and print the handbooks (but not service ones) from the service.citroen.com website.

Abs and speedo faults may be related since the abs system is used on many cars to give the cars speed. The fault could be something such as a wire problem or a faulty abs sensor or a driveshaft problem (which may also give juddering). If the front brake pads are ok the pad wear sensor wiring could be faulty to give the brake fault light (but you would also get the Service message lit up - I did) - you could unplug the wires at the front brake calipers to check if the warning goes. The juddering may also be a separate fault such as a clutch or flywheel problem. What model car and engine is it and how many miles ? Was the diagnostic check done by a Citroen dealer or elsewhere but still using the Citroen equipment ?

If your car has the auto lights (and wipers instead of an intermittant setting) option, at the top of the windscreen in the middle is located the sensor. If this area is in need of a clean then it may be giving a false signal. To switch the auto lights on/off (page 63 in handbook), you need the ignition switch at the accessory position, light switch set at position O and then hold in the button on the end of the lighting stalk until a sound is given.

Buzzer wires from some notes by Stimulator on the Picasso site. Not used on the C5 though since the buzzer is built into the relay I used. - orange - car left indicator - grey - car right indicator - yellow - 12N pin 1 yellow cable - green - 12N pin 4 green cable

Have you got the lights set to auto so when it is a bit dark they come on automatically ?

It was only installed on the 2.2 hdi mark 1 C5 (effectively up to 04 reg), so if you have a mark 1 you do not have the particulate filter/eolys fluid.

If you have a leak of this size, you will see large drips of oil from under the car on your drive. The mileage is probably too low for bad engine wear on a diesel so probably not this. Symptoms would be a smokey engine (from exhaust seen in rear view mirror) when accelerating (piston/cylinder wear), smokey engine when slowing down from high speed (worn valve guide seals). Symptoms of a turbo problem are a lot of smoke on start up, possibly a smokey exhaust when you accelerate, a lot of oil collecting in the piping between the turbo and engine, although I think it is normal for some oil to be there. I did have one fail on a petrol Saab and that smoked on starting for about 6 months before it failed leaving a motorway and surrounded the car in a cloud of smoke, but luckily did not break up and put metal in to the engine. If oil is getting in to the coolant you will see it collecting in the coolant expansion tank and the level will have gone up. A compression test would show if the cylinder head gasket had failed but you would probably have poor performance - but if it was like this when you got the car you may not notice it. Has the oil level gone down gradually whilst you have had the car or was the level low when you got it ?

I have seen reports that the new C5 has bad tyre noise and I drove a C5 exclusive with 18 inch wheels and that was bad. Not sure how this would be solved other than maybe different tyres.

A common thing to check on the 2.2 hdi is at the right hand end (when looking at it) of the cylinder head, the swirl control actuator rod breaks off at the plastic ball socket. The part is £20 and may give running problems and anti pollution messages. You may also need to replace the particulate filter if this was not done at about 75000 miles - this also gives poor fuel consumption when blocked and pollution messages. The 2.2 manual is about 10% higher fuel consumption than the 2.0 hdi and the auto even worse so if the 2.0 gave 42 mpg then you are going to get low 30s. What does the car handbook give for official mpg or you could compare CO2 figures for old/new cars. Coastline taxis is our expert on the suspension (and everything else on the C5) but as a guess, you could have a problem with the suspension spheres. The creaking suspension may be something that needs WD40 spraying on it or a worn suspension arm bearing.

Are the bumpers larger on the mark 2 in which case maybe the towbar sticks out further from its mounting points.

Just looked in the Haynes manual and it says some cars do not have abs in which case it could be a problem with the speedo drive fastened on the back of the gearbox. For the abs case, a dealer would likely plug in a diagnostic machine which should say what the problem is and then they could give you a repair cost, anything else could only be a wild guess. It could be something such as a problem with a wheel sensor but then I would expect the abs light to be on. I would not send the ecu away for a repair though until you know that it is at fault - in the Car Mechanics mag is says often these are sent for repairs and it turns out there is nothing wrong but you still have to pay for the checks.