paul.h

Our exhaust has not improved yet and it resonates (rather than rattles) at idle as well as at higher rpm. It has still not done many miles but is unlikely to fill up with soot and improve since the engine burns cleanly, the old exhaust was clean inside. The back box is round rather than squarish as the original. I intend to have a look under the car to see which part is making the noise. I fit it myself and it is not catching on anything and the heat shield is not loose which could be causes of a rattle. A rattle could also be a bit of assembly paste inside the exhaust, I was carefull not to use too much at the middle/back section joint - if this is a cause of a rattle then the sections are likely to need removal so it could be tipped out. Rattling/resonating should not be normal.

Have a look on the C5 forum, this problem (stuck injectors) has been recently (few months ago) posted by Coastline taxis. A search shows the post to be on the Problems and Fixes pages, last post April 25th 2011.

If you look on the Questions pages, Athers has some free seats available under a Freebie post.

I do not know if this was part of the cause, but before jacking the car up, the suspension has to be set to maximum height (this is in the handbook).

If it is a mark 1 C5 (136 hp), there are diagrams in the French Review Technique Automobile manual for the C5 by ETAI. This is similar to a Haynes manual but in French with lots of diagrams and photos. It can be obtained through Amazon's French site or direct from ETAI, cost with postage will be about 35 euros and takes a few days. You may also be able to purchase them if you register with service.citroen.com although I have only used the free services from this site (parts diagrams as at dealers and the car handbooks).

There is a pinned post about it on the Problems and Fixes pages. Sounds as if your indie is not familiar with the C5, he would have known about this problem since it affects them all if the corrosion is left long enough. It may not be as bad on the mark 2 ones since some only seem to need to clean up the rear pads when the initial brake squeal starts which indicates the problem before it gets bad enough to affect the wheel.

I may be wrong, but I vaguely remember a few years ago posts about a seat frame breaking and needing welding up/replacing. There is a post dated July 3rd 2009 on this subforum, about page 27, found by a search on 'driver seat' but it would not open in the search results (error 404). It was located by going back on the forum pages looking for the date shown in the search results.

I do not know why there are stepped, but they are the same on the mark 1 hatchback when you buy new ones, must have been a design change since the originals ones were different. I also found they would make a clunk noise, possibly the pad back plates are narrower so they do not seize but have more play. Citroen have added a new shim to the rear pads on the mark 1 and 2 models which clips under the spring so it rests across the top of the pads and this has stopped the clunk. This shim can be seen on the service.citroen parts diagrams, part no. 4407 21 and costs £14 for the 2 brakes (also £1.60 for new springs).

If the middle bit is still ok, Haynes explains where to cut off the back bit (there are a couple of dents in the pipe) and then Citroen supply a connecting piece (about £15) to join the 2 sections or an after market one will have an overlapping section that nips up with a U-bolt and a bit of exhaust assembly paste. The after market back box supporting bracket is welded on to the box on the Euro carparts one so you could not just buy a box and only use the bracket. From memory, a Citroen back box was about £150 so is a bit dear if you just want to use the bracket.

You can not buy the bracket. A fix is to weld what is left to the box. On our 2003 C3 the original exhaust was one piece but after market ones such as from Euro carparts (and Citroen) are in 2 sections and cost about £100 vs about £350 from Citroen. However, the one I used resonates at about 2500 rpm and spoils the car, but I am hoping after some use it will improve. I think it may be a Klarius one from Euro carparts.

Does it also not start with the spare key ? Does removing and putting the key back in the ignition without all the other things help ? The key is detected at the ignition switch for the immobiliser and the detector (Citroen call it a transponder) could be at fault.

On most Citroens pushing the button on the end of the wiper stalk will change the display. However, we have a C3 1.4 petrol SX, 2003 and that does not have a trip computer and the buttons on the end alter the radio settings. The one on the light switch does nothing.

The cabin fan needs to be running as well as switching the air con on. You should be able to hear the compressor clutch clicking when you switch the air con on, if not then it may be the system needs to be regassed - our local dealer charges about £49 for this.

Thanks for posting, sometimes you do posts like this where you think you are on your own but many people do read them and learn from them so it is not a waste of your time. As well as fixing the surging, has the anti pollution message also gone mentioned in your earlier post ?

Some obvious checks which you may have already done include the radiator, cabin heater matrix which may be noticed by smell when hot (similar to burnt curry), all coolant hoses and the air bleed points on the hoses, water pump, expansion bottle cap. These would all be noticed by coolant at the leak point but once the coolant is hot it may evaporate so best to look when still cold. Next is a possible head gasket leak into a cylinder so you may see more water vapour from the exhaust than previously, or a leak to the outside down the engine block.

Could be worth checking if the heater matrix is leaking a bit of anti freeze, smells a bit like burnt curry.

You can read and print pages from the owners handbook on the service.citroen.com website. A click on your mouse right button right is easiest way to start printing.

We have what appears to be an amateur radio aerial not that far from us (about 200 m away) and occasionally our C3 locks do not lock on the remote or have been found unlocked - I put it down to some interference such as a mobile phone/mast but now possibly not. It would also affect our Xsara Picasso. The C5 and now C4 (Picasso replacement) do not seem to be affected though.

Thanks for the photos and the tip re checking the brake lights. Your last photo also clearly shows the passenger foot brake which was in the news recently. Apparently if you push the lever at the end of the steel tube through the carpet it will apply the brakes and Citroen are meant to be investigating and maybe there will be a recall. It also applies to some of their other models.

If the car is a 2.2 hdi, check if the ball/socket connection of the diaphragm unit is not broken at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. This is a common failure and can give anti pollution messages

If the car is a 2.2 hdi, check if the ball/socket connection of the diaphragm unit is not broken at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. This is a common failure and can give anti pollution messages.

The oil filter on the mark 1 C5 is the metal can type so any type of strap or claw type of wrench should remove it. You could even try knocking a screwdriver through it but this does not always work and could simply peel the can apart. We have one of the plastic housing types on our C3 and I find it messy and takes longer compared to the can type and you can not prefill it with oil before fastening on the car. I agree with Johndouglas on preferring not to use the dipstick tube method for an oil change, since it unlikely to remove the sludge from the bottom of the sump. My last car was a Saab 9-5 and these engines where well known for failures due to sludge build up blocking the oil pump inlet filter and required best quality synthetic oils, 6000 mile oil changes and regular sump removal to clear any sludge.

Just a comment on the speedo cluster - if you change the complete unit, the car will take mileage (km) of the greatest of the 2 units. eg your car is on 50000 km, replacement unit on 75000 km. Fit replacement and then car will go to 75000 km, even if you then refit the original one. There are places that can return the car to the original distance at a cost but do not take the risk and only fit the stepper motor.

The pressures I have seen (in the Citroen mechanics manual for the C5 available from the service.citroen website) must be from the fuel tank pump and not the high pressure one. Hopefully somebody else may add to the post with some help and also there are other forums which may be worth a look - frenchcar forum and aussifrogs.

There is another post with the same fault code on page 20 of this subforum (last reply 19/6/2010) and seemed to need a new HP fuel pump and then a pressure regulator but then the car was being sold. Copy/paste below. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After getting a P1113 fault code I took the car to the dealer and he said that the LP fuel pump was only delivering 3.5 bar when it should be doing 5 bar. First job therefore was to change the LP fuel pump. Bought one from GSF and had my local mechanic fit it. This did not cure the problem. However, the dealer had said that he couldn't check the HP pump because this relies on getting sufficient pressure from the LP pump to work properly. What happens is that I get the "Anti Pollution Fault" message followed by the "ESP/ASR not functioning" after I go above 2000rpm. The car then drives OK but won't go above 2000rpm. If I start the car and leave it idling, it cuts out after about 2 minutes (less if I restart). Once I've driven it and got the two warning messages, I can then leave it idling and it doesn't cut out. Can anyone confirm that this is the HP pump or do I need to take it back to the dealer for confirmation? I also had a broken breather pipe at the same time the problem occurred (which I fixed back together), but assume that this is just co-oincidence? 0 Report Back to top of the page up there ^ MultiQuote Reply -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Page 1 of 1 Start a new topic Add ReplyOther Replies To This Topic#2 longdead Member Group: Members Posts: 27 Joined: 12-October 09 Posted 14 June 2010 - 08:36 PM I had this problem last November same code and I had to have a new hp fuel pump it is now in the garage with the same fault but got code p1294 needs fuel sensor/regulator I would get it diagnose again Longdead 0 Report Back to top of the page up there ^ MultiQuote Reply -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #3 Guest_Crankshaft_* Group: Guests Posted 14 June 2010 - 10:47 PM Longdead Thanks for your post. Was your car running OK when you first had the HP pump replaced? Pete 0 Report Back to top of the page up there ^ MultiQuote Reply -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #4 longdead Member Group: Members Posts: 27 Joined: 12-October 09 Posted 19 June 2010 - 09:09 AM Crankshaft, on 14 June 2010 - 10:47 PM, said: Longdead Thanks for your post. Was your car running OK when you first had the HP pump replaced? Pete yep ran nice and smooth until the hydractive suspension pump went in jan got that done and again it was fine until now going to sell I am getting a new c5 vtr+nav tourer Longdead 0 Report Back to top of the page up there ^ MultiQuote Reply --------------------------------------------------------------------------------