paul.h

Most likely the gear change needs adjusting/setting up. This would have been disconnected from the gearbox when the engine/gearbox was lifted out. Difficulty engaging the gears would also apply with the engine switched off. If it is a hydraulic clutch then also this may need bleeding or if cable then the cable adjusting.

If you have not had to sign any contracts/etc and you have now got the money back in your account, any chance of putting the registration on here ?

If you register on the service.citroen.com site (as a member of a car club is allowed) you can see the same parts diagrams and parts nos. as at a Citroen dealer. Then you can get your pump part no. and then input it to see which other cars it will fit. It may also show if repair kits are available. On the C5 problems and fixes subforum there were a number of posts started 18/12/2010 (last post 7/1/2011) by SJE32 who DIY replaced a leaking seal on a 2.2 hdi high pressure diesel pump. It includes the supplier details who can provide all the seals for the pump and also notes it is the same pump on the C8.

If you have the car service book it tells you on the stamped service sheets.

Easiest way I have found to bleed a clutch is sucking the fluid through using a hand vacuum pump, Mityvac, since pushing the pedal down/up is not as easy as brakes since the clutch diaphragm springs back. Used to have a lot of problems doing Saab clutches without this but maybe the Citroens are different. The fluid should be changed anyway when the brakes are bled every 2 years and if not done it is likely to be black with seal bits in it. A large syringe would also work to suck the fluid through.

Have you tried eurocarparts.com for a pump ? Fuel pump replacement is covered in the Haynes manual for the C3 as follows (if required you could borrow from a library). On replacement of the low pressure fuel pump in the fuel tank there is no mention of programming other than to pressurise the system by depressing the accelerator fully, switch on the ignition, hold the pedal down for approx 1 second and release it. The ECU should operate the pump for 20 to 30 seconds to refill the fuel system. When the pump stops switch off the ignition. For the high pressure fuel pump (if this has also failed due to metal contam if it has gone through the filter) there is no mention of programming other than on a road test to engage third gear, stabilise at 1000 rpm and then accelerate fully up to 3500 rpm.

If your dealer can not get one then try a breakers. They are on other Citroens as well as the C3 such as the C5. You could also try coastline taxis who is frequently on the C5 subforum and he has been breaking a C5 so may have one.

What make of tyres have you got ? If the wheels are causing pulling to one side, swap them over and see if it pulls the other way, but also see if any of the brakes are binding by spinning each wheel when jacked up. Check to see if the track rod ends are equal distance along the rod threads - if badly adjusted by being done on on side only, then I have had this cause pulling to one side.

I can sympathise with you, having done similar repairs - a Fiat 127 which needed front panel, wings, bonnet and bumper and a Maxi which needed rear quarter, rear bumper and hatch door and other body repairs. Before you start take lots of photos and measurements to help with positioning of new parts. Bonnet to wing, etc gaps are important so it looks ok and closes so final fastening/welding may need to be done with all panels in place. If you are no goood at welding then maybe use somebody to do this bit. The hardest part is getting a reasonable paint job (unless you have parts in the same colour) plus you will not be able to use 2 pack stuff since it is toxic - but getting this done by a paint shop will be expensive. Also this time of year it is too cold for painting outside and if done inside without good ventilation beware of using flammable materials - the vapours can easily be ignited causing a fire/explosion.

Pad removal is easy enough, remove the lower guide pin bolt (30 Nm torque) on the caliper and pivot it up and off the pads, then lever out each pad from the mounting braket. Give them and the bracket a good clean before refitting with a smear of copper grease on the pad metal edges where they contact the mounting bracket. With the pads out check the pistons are free by pushing in by hand slightly. However, before this I would jack up each wheel and spin them to see if the brakes are free, then apply the brakes hard and release and see if they are free again - will show if any brake is binding. Do the rears as well, I have found the drums tend to collect a lot of brake dust which needs removing each year or so.

To the timimg belt I would also add the belt pulleys and tensioner and water pump since if petrol the mileage is 80k for belt replacement (from memory) and maybe a thermostat since these do not last forever. The white smoke would have been coolant leaking into a cylinder with probably unburnt fuel. Probably also worthwhile having an oil/filter change in case coolant got into the oil.

Sounds as though the temperature gauge thinks the engine coolant is too hot. So if the temperature sensor or wiring/connector is not faulty you need to check for overheating causes such as engine fan not working (should be on when the temperature is high as now), low coolant level, leaking coolant, thermostat not opening fully (radiator will not be getting hot), water pump fault, radiator blocked up internally or externally.

When I have had worn wheel bearings the noise has sounded similar to an aeroplane and got louder as the speed was increased and louder when turning. Deciding which wheel is not easy, it may seem to be from one wheel but has not always been that one and could also be from a rear. With the car jacked up, if you can detect play by waggling the wheel, repeat with the brakes applied and if a wheel bearing then the play should be gone but if play in the suspension then it will remain (got this from Car Mechanics). Rotating/spinning the wheel by hand may show some roughness but with brake pads installed/driven wheels this may mask anything. After a run the wheel may feel warmer than the others. I have also had noises from badly worn tyres where the tread blocks have feathered which could be felt by running a hand over the treads and seen. I can imagine C5buff's test is exciting, but in use there may be about ½ tonne load on each wheel which would be difficult to achieve when on axle stands. Brake test rollers at an MOT station may work.

Also look on the C4owners.org forum, you will find many more postings than on this site.

Is it on the left hand dial face, just to the left of the 12 o'clock position and seat belt light ? If it is like the mark 1 C5 though it will only flash on for a split second if at all.

Before you start doing anything I would wait and see what your insurance company say, a similar bump at a barrier to our Picasso cost about £3000 to repair at their approved repairer. Even a minor dent is about £300 to repair/paint. If yours is similar, you may have the car written off which could allow you to buy another but with a 2.0 hdi engine and no need for all the other repairs you are thinking of doing. When you reported it to your insurance company, you may have said you do not want to claim for your repairs, but the other person you hit will still claim against you so any no claims discounts will probably have been lost anyway. So there is nothing to gain by paying for your own repairs.

You have probably removed them by now but from Haynes, you push down the release tabs (coloured plastic inserts) on the connectors and they should just pull off.

Does this engine have a dual mass flywheel fitted ? A fault with this has been suggested on other posts as a cause of vibration but there has not been any follow up posts of the results.

At the back fastened to the driveshaft intermediate bearing housing and subframe so will be low down.

Unless you have been doing 10k miles a week, it is unlikely the filter will have already blocked up. The pressure either side of the filter is measured so maybe the inlet pressure sensor is reading high as would happen if the filter was blocked but the messages may refer to something else.

Car accessory shops usually sell copper washers of different sizes, sometimes in the carded clear packs and sometimes they will have a box of various sizes to rummage through.

I do not know if the rev counter and speedo are anything like the ones on the C5, but on the C5 forum there are posts where one of them has packed up and swapping the motors on the backs over has provided a temporary fix until another motor has been obtained. Here though you do not swap the panel for another one since the mileage will take on the highest of the 2 panels.

The ETAI Revue Technique Automobile books are similar to the Haynes ones covering all of the car but on good quality paper and with decent photos and line drawings. Delivered costs I think are about 36 euros and from ETAI arrive in a few days.

The fuel supplier should be able to tell you/provide assurances otherwise they will not be able to sell any if they are going to cause damage to fuel systems.

Coil packs do fail on many cars, I used to carry a spare (and a crank position sensor) when I had a Saab 9-5 it was that common on them. On these you could sometimes smell burning when they failed but this may not apply to other makes. Having done the diagnostic test you either believe the results or not and the only way to tell is probably fitting another coil pack. Do you know what caused the electrics to go off or was it just a stall due to coil pack ? Have you also replaced the accelerator pedal ? I did this on our C3 (1.4 sx petrol 2003) soon after purchase since it did not accelerate over the first part of the pedal and was easy to stall when setting off.