paul.h

Welcome to the forum. There is a problem with the site which needs fixing for you to become a member able to add posts and topics rather than validating. This needs admin to sort it out but unfortunately he does not visit the site often so I do not know when it will be fixed.

Does it make the noise with the engine running but the car not moving and does the noise change with engine speed rather than road speed when the car is moving ? High pitched whining noises could be from things such as an air leak on any of the hoses or a bearing/pulley that is failing such as on the timing belt or alternator belt or possibly a wheel bearing. It might pay you to see your mechanic before Friday to give time to sort the problem before the MOT.

I do not know what the oil costs but £160 seems a bit steep. I would be tempted to do what you first suggested and drain it and measure what you got out and then put the same volume in. Maybe wait and see if coastline taxis has something to add when he is back on the forum.

Which gear box is it - AL4 or AM6 or AT6 ? The following is from the service box procedures. Previously coastline taxis has recommended to use a dealer for auto box oil changes so something to consider, it should take about 1 hour. If doing it diy, if you are not sure about getting the right oil use a dealer and you may also find if they do the oil change they will buy the oil in bulk so it might part offset the labour charge. It looks as if you need to be able to read the oil temperature using a diagnostic tool. This is the procedure for the AM6: 2. Drain and refillCAUTION : The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.N.B. : The oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained. Put the vehicle on a hoist.Remove :The protective panel under the engineThe top-up plug (2) ; Using a TORX socket wrench (this plug looks to be under the gear box and is the plug in the centre of plug 1 next removed)The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) ; Using a 6 -sided wrenchN.B. : Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out.3. RefillingRefit :The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) (equipped with a new seal)The top-up plug (2) ; Using a TORX socket wrench Remove :The air filter housingThe filler cap (3) - (looks to be on top of the gearbox)Use tool [0340 - topping up cylinder].CAUTION : Ignore the information mentioned on the tool [0340].CAUTION : The oil type "AW-1" in AT6 and AM6 gearboxes with engine version Euro 5 is specific and cannot be replaced with oil type ""JWS 3309"".Dry gearbox oil capacity : 7 litres (approx.).Type of oil (Red) :EURO 5 engine : AW-1 oilEURO 4 engine : JWS 3309 ESSO oilVolume of oil remaining after draining : 4 litres (approx.).Quantity of oil to be replaced : 3 litres (approx.).Refit the filler plug (3) (equipped with a new seal).Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).4. Check the oil levelPrior conditions :Vehicle levelCheck that the gearbox is not in downgrade modeRemove the filler plug (3)Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearboxApply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positionsGear lever in position "P"Engine running at idleOil temperature 60°C (+ 8 ; - 2 °C) (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool)Remove the oil level plug (2).4.1. Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of dripsRefit the oil level plug (2).4.2. Sequence of drips or nothingRefit the oil level plug (2).Stop the engine.Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.Repeat the top-up procedure.N.B. : The level of oil is correct when the stream of oil becomes drop by drop.Refit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).4.3. Check the oil level (continued)Refit :The filler cap (3) (equipped with a new seal)The air filter boxThe protective panel under the engineToo high a fluid level can cause :Overheating of the fluidFluid leaksToo low a level will lead to destruction of the gearbox.----------------------------------------------This is for the AL4 gearbox:2. Drain and refillCAUTION : The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.N.B. : The oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained.Raise and support the vehicle on a 2 -post lift.Remove the under engine protection . Remove (from under the gearbox):The spacer bar (3)The oil level plug (2)The oil overflow and drainage plug (1)N.B. : Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out.3. RefillingCAUTION : Adhere to the tightening torques. Auto gearbox AL4 Fit :The oil overflow and drainage plug (1)The top-up plug (2)Remove : The air filter unit and its air inlet ducts. (from on top of the gearbox)Uncouple : The gear selection control cable (4) Using a pair of thin-nosed pliers.Release : The gear selection control cable (4).Remove the filler plug (5).Fill the gearbox ; Using tool [0341].Dry gearbox oil capacity : 5,85 litres.Oil remaining after draining : Approximately 3 litres.Quantity of oil to be replaced : Approximately 3 litres.Refit the filler plug (5) (equipped with a new seal).Fit the cap (5).Refit : The air filter unit and its air inlet ducts.Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).4. Check the oil levelPrior conditions :Vehicle levelCheck that the gearbox is not in downgrade modeRemove the filler plug (5)Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearboxApply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positionsSet the ger selector to parking position "P"Engine running at idle speedOil temperature 60°C ; (+8°C/-2°C) Remove the oil level plug (2).Distance "A" : 48 mm (straight length of plug).4.1. Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of dripsRefit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).Fit the cap (2).4.2. Sequence of drips or nothingRefit the oil level plug (2).Stop the engine.Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.Repeat the top-up procedure.N.B. : The level of oil is correct when the stream of oil becomes drop by drop.Refit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).Fit the cap (2).4.3. Complementary operationsRefit the filler plug (5) (equipped with a new seal).Fit the cap (5).Refit :The air filter unit and its air inlet ductsThe spacer bar (3)The protective panel under the engineToo high a fluid level can cause :Overheating of the fluidFluid leaksCAUTION : Too low a level causes destruction of the gearbox.------------------------------------------------------ Procedure for AT6 gearbox: 2. Drain and refillCAUTION : The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.N.B. : The oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained.Put the vehicle on a hoist. Remove :The protective panel under the engine (according to equipment)The top-up plug (2) ( looks to be on the bottom of the gearbox which looks to be in the cemtre of the drain plug 1); Using a TORX socket wrenchThe oil overflow and drainage plug (1) ; Using a 6 -sided wrenchN.B. : Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out.3. RefillingRefit :The oil overflow and drainage plug (1) (equipped with a new seal)The top-up plug (2)Remove :The air intake resonator (depending on engine)The air filter housing (depending on engine) Remove the filler plug (3) on top of the gearbox.CAUTION : Ignore the information mentioned on the tool [0340].Use tool [0340 topping up cylinder].CAUTION : The oil type "AW-1" in AT6 and AM6 gearboxes with engine version Euro 5 is specific and cannot be replaced with oil type "JWS 3309".Dry gearbox oil capacity : 7 litres (approx.).Type of oil : AW-1 (Red).Volume of oil remaining after draining : 4 litres (approx.).Quantity of oil to be replaced : 3 litres (approx.).Refit the filler plug (3) (equipped with a new seal).Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure).4. Check the oil levelCAUTION : Too low a level causes destruction of the gearbox.Prior conditions :Vehicle levelCheck that the gearbox is not in downgrade modeRemove the filler plug (3)Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearboxApply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positionsGear lever in position "P"Engine running at idleOil temperature 58°C (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool)Remove the oil level plug (2).4.1. Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of dripsRefit the oil level plug (2) (equipped with a new seal).4.2. Sequence of drips or nothingRefit the oil level plug (2).Stop the engine.Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.Repeat the top-up procedure.N.B. : The level of oil is correct when the stream of oil becomes drop by drop.4.3. Check the oil level (continued)Refit :The protective panel under the engine (according to equipment)The filler cap (3) (equipped with a new seal)The air intake resonator (depending on engine)The air filter housing (depending on engine)Too high a fluid level can cause :Overheating of the fluidFluid leaks

Use the parts diagrams to get the right part number for your car against your VIN, then search on ebay using the part number. If you have not already done it, register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the site use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. Glow plugs come under electrical and not mechanical as you may first think. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Ths is the topic where arak81 mentions using the wrong glow plugs http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24014-car-drives-rough-and-engine-light-on-for-citroen-c4-55reg-hatchback/

I would not expect it to. I replaced the pedal on our previous C3 since that could not gradually increase the revs up to about 2000 rpm and was making it difficult to set off and it did not give any fault codes since it was probably not something that could affect the exhaust emissions. Maybe you could check your car by very gradually increasing the revs with the car stationary and see if the revs go up smoothly.

Maybe there is some wear in the accelerator pedal electrics.

I could not find anything in Citroen's service box procedure for dpf replacement saying to do a forced regen and did not spot anything in the Haynes manual either, so I do not know if it is needed. I would think diy replacement of the dpf would not include a forced regen. The service box procedure for a forced regen is: 1. Recommended toolsDiagnostic station.2. Forced regeneration of the particle emission filterESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations that are specific to high pressure diesel injection (HDi) engines.ESSENTIAL : Connect the vehicle to an approved gas extractor for this type of operation. Where the recommended installation is not available, carry out the forced regeneration of the particle filter outside the workshop, on an area of hard standing and remote from any inflammable materials.N.B. : Vehicle with hydropneumatic suspension : Put the vehicle in the "high" position.CAUTION : Check that the fuel level is sufficient (minimum 20 litres).Start the engine and allow it to run at a temperature (60°C minimum).Connect the diagnostic tool on the vehicle’s central socket.Start the regeneration cycle Using the diagnostic equipment.The regeneration of the particle emission filter proceeds automatically :Automatic control by the engine ECUStabilisation of the engine speed at 4000 rpm : Operation with post-injectionChange to idle speed (for 30 seconds)Stabilisation of the engine speed at 3000 rpm : Check of the effectiveness of the regeneration of the particle emission filterChange to idle speedN.B. : Let the engine idle to cool down.Stop the engine.CAUTION : Wait at least one hour before carrying out any work on the exhaust line.

The part numbers vary with engine size and rpo number across mark 1 and mark 2 C5s. You may be best to get the parts from a Citroen dealer using your car VIN. I also vaguely remember arak81 getting glow plugs for his C4 which turned out to be the wrong ones and did not work properly.

I had not looked in Haynes until now so as you say the thermostat should start to open at 83°C and the engine fan should not cut in until 97°C so the engine should be between these values. When warming up you can see if the thermostat opens early by feeling the radiator top hose - it should not start to get warm until 83°C. The RTA manual for the C5 says normal regeneration will occur if the exhaust gases are hot enough, whether a faulty thermostat can prevent them getting hot enough I do not know. When you topped up the eolys fluid did you use the correct one. I think your car (2008 C5 model 2004 to 2008) originally would have used eolys 176 (filler click fit green) so can be mixed with others apart from DPX42 but the others can not be mixed together since they may block up. This is from the Citroen service box procedure which mentions compatibility of the various fluids 3. Compatibility between additivesAdditive DPX42 cannot be mixed with any other additive.Additive EOLYS 176 can be mixed with additives EOLYS POWERFLEX and INFINEUM F7995.Additives EOLYS POWERFLEX and INFINEUM F7995 cannot be mixed with each other.N.B. : As the additive concentrations between EOLYS 176 and the two new additives are identical, there is no impact on the operating calibrations of the engine ECU.CAUTION : It is not permissible to mix additives INFINEUM F7995 and Rhodia EOLYS POWERFLEX with each other.

From your previous topic on fuel consumption I would not think your driving is causing the dpf to block up, about 30 miles a day on motorways should keep it clean. Are you getting any messages to say the fuel tank filler is open - this takes a signal from the filler cap which has 2 magnets in it and are used by a switch to tell the car when it has been filled up so the eolys fluid is injected in to the fuel tank. How is the 77°C being measured, if this is a code reader value from the engine temp sensor then it ought to be about 90 to 96°C since the thermostat is set at about 90°C. So it could be the thermostat needs replacing.

I gave mine a quick wipe and expected it to fail but no, it passed but failed on a front one.

Have a look at this topic for some ideas to try http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20752-how-do-i-remove-locking-wheel-nuts-without-the-key/ Most people would leave the key in the car boot in the cut out in the jack tray. I also note the key number on the handbook in case it was lost so I could order a new one from a dealer.

If the caliper lever is against its stop and there is a slight bit of slack in the cable when the handbrake is off then it should be ok. I have found that on the first click the handbrake will be just starting to slow the wheel if spun but then needs pulling on more to prevent the wheel turning. Problems often occur on handbrakes when adjusters are not working so the cable is tightened to compensate but this in itself can prevent an adjuster working.

Slight leaks on the rear struts seem to pass the MOT, I had one pass and so has aspire_helen. have a read of this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24268-c5-22hdi-2001-rear-suspension-cylinder-leak/ If you want to try replacing the piston seals they would be a dealer part but some dealers do sell through ebay such as Rigbys of Chorley, however, the postage may be more than the discount on offer.

I tend not to buy parts from eurocarparts having found some do not fit, possibly their cheap copies are not precise enough, plus the costs are not that much lower than Citroen parts. I do not remember much of a problem with their Saab parts about 15 years ago though and many of them were in Saab boxes so could have been originals. Rear lights for a C3 did not fit correctly and holes for the fastening bolts were too narrow to allow a thin wall socket to do them up, an exhaust for the C3 would resonate at about 2000 rpm which was around usual engine speed round town and spoilt the car. No problem though with recognised makes such as Exide batteries.

Thank you for this, I have linked to it in the Lexia topic in the Petrol, Diesel, LPG section.

You may want to have a look at the car handbook before seeing a car. These can be read/saved/printed in sections http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ You may need to select your language first. There are iso fixings in the back for child seats and on page 105 it gives for the tourer Tourer - two lower rings C , located between the vehicle seat back and cushion, indicated by a label, - an upper ring E , fi xed to the roof on the boot side, concealed under a fl ap with the logo TOP TETHER.

I would go for the citroen service box which has Citroen's own procedures/parts diagrams/wiring diagrams but go for the most up to date version. If you went for a download the time taken can be many hours depending on your internet speed, for me this would be a no go since our speed is only just good enough to use this forum, never mind things like u tube. As an example on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Service-Box-1-2014-TIS-EPC-WDS-/381321373493 You could also have a look at this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23950-c8-workshop-manual/

At least you do not need to worry about the brakes now. You probably did this but as a reminder to others, the brake pedal should be used to adjust the caliper/pads before the handbrake cable is connected to the caliper lever. The lever should be against the stop with the handbrake off.

Only cars I have come across with a heated front screen are Ford Mondeos. You might have a light sensor on the windscreen behind the mirror which is used to auto switch on the intermittant wipers and head lights. One problem with a diesel is they are slow to warm up compared to a petrol since the engines are more efficient. Some de-icer will help you get away quicker than waiting for the car to warm up.

I have not done an engine decoke for years but petrol engines suffer from a carbon build up on the air inlet side so I would expect a diesel to be the same. This is probably from the engine breathing system that recycles gases to the air inlet and also the egr valve recycling exhaust gases as well as any oil that gets through the turbo. It may be your egr valve is not opening or it has blocked with carbon. A turbo check could be the engine rpm and the boost pressure measurement. You have probably already done this but look to see if the swirl flap diaphragm is working and the plastic cup connection has not broken.

Not tried it. I use the Citroen service box on dvds and installed on my pc for the workshop manuals and wiring diagrams. It is not the latest version though which you would get on-line and does not have the eurorepardoc tab.

In the C5 Technical section there is a pinned post of Common Problems to look at. Expensive ones on the 2008 on C5 (X7) are the steering racks can leak oil needing a replacement and the front wipers can seize. You may be best to avoid a 1.6 hdi, whether they have improved on the models 1 or 2 years old I do not know but the turbos do not all fail - but frequent oil/filter changes using the correct oil will help as well as not revving until the oil has circulated when starting and letting the engine tick over for half a minute before turning it off. Unless you do a lot of town driving, you may find a larger engine is more economic on fuel and will need less frequent servicing. If internal size is important, the 2004 to 2008 C5 estate is larger than the later model C5 (X7) and will have the hydractive suspension, whereas for the later model you will need an exclusive or 2.2 hdi for this. On the later model the 2.0 hdi 160 bhp engine is more fuel efficient than the earlier 138/140 bhp engine. For all diesels you need to watch out for the exhaust dpf since it will need servicing around 80k miles (depending on engine size) but if it has been removed or drilled through it should not pass the MOT and would need to be notified to the insurer as a modification who may then not wish to insure the car. A check of the tail pipe may help to show if it has been removed - with the dpf all our diesel cars were clean metal internally, whereas ones without were covered in soot.

I just tried it and it still works but I do not use it as a member of the Citroen Owners club, other professional non emergency services. It is not citroen.service.com but is http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp