paul.h

Looks as if the MAF may need replacing then but you could unplug it to see if there is any difference.

Welcome to the forum. I can not help much, did you have the same problem with the old ecu/keys ? If you intend to keep the replacement ecu you will also need the radio to match the ecu or the means to unlock your existing one so it will work properly. To check the injectors you will probably need to look at live data when trying to start the car once you overcome the immobiliser problem, maybe the fuel pressure is too low which could be something like a blocked fuel filter. Other possibilites could include an engine sensor fault such as the crank shaft sensor.

Welcome to the forum. The symptoms you give all appear to be related to the battery being flat. You need to use a volt meter to check the battery voltage - before starting it should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts and then once running it should be about 14.4 volts. If less than about 12.5 volts the battery needs charging or replacing and if about 14.4 volts is not achieved then the alternator may be faulty or the wiring, or battery connections, or earth connections from the battery to the bodywork and to the engine/gearbox or the drive belt may be slipping.

Maybe you could check if all the indicator bulbs are working. Our first C3 (2003) would give a beeping noise if there was a fault such as a low battery on starting. It did not give any messages to say what the fault was but there was a list in the handbook to work through.

Welcome to the forum. I do not know where abouts in the north east you are but I have seen Town Centre Citroen in Sunderland mentioned on here as doing a good job.

Welcome to the forum. The battery in the Xsara Picasso is under the front passenger seat. To access it you do not need to remove the seat, just tilt the seat forward. According to the Haynes manual this is by moving the seat fully rearward then depress the locking catches located at the rear of the seat on each side at the bottom inside the frame fastened to the floor. Tip the seat forward, release the locking clip on the battery cover and lift it off. Not removing the seat also avoids possible problems with the electrical connectors underneath and resulting air bag problems and before undoing these you should disconnect the battery and wait around 15 minutes. As Rookie2 has mentioned, there should be a positive terminal just behind the air filter and possibly a negative boss on the bonnet slam panel that can be used for jump starting. If you are going to disconnect the battery do not do it too quickly or you can get odd electrical problems if the bsi has not had time to shut down. The following copied from the C5 Common Problems topic I have used many times without any problems: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). Be careful if jump starting another car so you do not damage the bsi in your Picasso. The following is also from the common problems topic: 17. Odd electrical problems after jump starting another car. This occurred on a Peugeot 406 but could apply to a Citroen. When jump starting another car a power spike caused the BSI software to become corrupt and the headlights would come on after the car was switched off and locked, causing the battery to go flat. It was possible to reprogramme another BSI to use but this may not always be the case, requiring a new BSI to be needed. The problem is when you are jump starting, the regulator on the running (good) car senses a drain on itself and allows the regulator to put out more power to maintain 14.4v and if you just pull the jump lead off you are causing a power surge until the regulator adjusts itself. 9 out of 10 times it is fine but the 406 customer was just unlucky. To help avoid this possibility when jump starting it is recommended to - connect jump leads making sure you put the negative lead onto the engine of the flat car - once the flat car is started do not take the leads off - go into the good car and switch on the rear demister, headlights and foglights. - then remove the jump leads - now switch the headlight and demisters off one at a time. This allows the regulator to catch up and regulate the power output. We are not talking about seconds here, its actually miliseconds for it to alter itself but its long enough to fry things.

The 2 racks might be different since your car is listed as having variable power steering whereas the lower cost rack cars are not. On the parts diagrams they also look different at the top of the rack where the column shaft connects - on yours the collar is larger and looks to have an electrical connection. There is this comment against your engine under steering rack data in the Citroen service box procedures: ES9J4 engine : A proportional electrovalve, incorporated in the valve, modulates the steering assistance as a function of the vehicle speed. An alternative to buying another rack is to have yours overhauled - have a look at this topic from the Common Problems post for some info including at the end a place in Wakefield that will repair your rack while you wait: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 8 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594 There are 2 more cases here and one being caused by corrosion of the rack where the alloy oil pipes connect http://www.citroen-o...-leaking-fluid/ Have a look at this topic from C5greener for another leak point in the piping near the rack http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ This topic from taximan61 for his 2011 C5 (X7) had the leaking rack and pipes repaired in Wakefield. This is the youngest C5 with a leaking rack so it is not just the early ones that leak. http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/

If you have a code reader that does live data have a look at the temperatures - inlet air and coolant (engine) to see if they are correct - if not they may be causing the wrong fuel/air mixture. You could also look at the fuel pressure. Also maybe the glow plugs need looking at although most people say they are not needed until below freezing to help starting. When was the fuel filter last changed ?

Welcome to the forum. Do you have a C4 and if so what year and engine does it have ?

I am pleased you have managed to fix this since internet searches suggest it can be difficult to do.

Welcome to the forum. Post 2 has some notes from the Haynes manual for removing the blower on the 2001 to 2008 C5. Let us know how you get on or if you need any help.

The egr valve is at the back of the engine below the fuel filter and air inlet ducting and these may need removing to get to the egr valve. At 150k miles the timing belt is due for renewal if not already done.

You could also check for a loose fuel injector http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20409-sombody-please-tell-me-i-havent-just-bought-a-pup/

How many miles has the van done ? P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High P1351 IDM Input Circuit Malfunction/ Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage Could be the turbo solenoid valve and the glow plugs, have a look at this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24099-turbo-solenoid-valve-for-citroen-c4-16hdi-p0238/ and http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24014-car-drives-rough-and-engine-light-on-for-citroen-c4-55reg-hatchback/ but you may find it difficult to sort. It could also be the MAP sensor is faulty or needs a clean so is giving too high a pressure. Could also be the egr valve needs a clean - http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/22082-fault-codes-p0238-and-p1351-16-hdi/ This is copied from my reply to your introduction post: Do you have the fault code and freeze frame data from when you did the diagnostic check to say it was over boost and do you have any live data of the pressure ? Possibilities can include the MAP sensor could be faulty or bunged up with oil/carbon. On a recent post the over boost for a 1.6 hdi Berlingo should be about 0.6 bar.

Copy of reply by Rookie2 to Johno's duplicate post which has now been deleted: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sorry Johno, never noticed this post, I have just replied to your duplicate post. Check how much vacuum you have in the system, these engines depend on a tip top vac system to operate efficiently, poor brakes and poor engine performance would tend to indicate a vac problem. It could be that both symptoms are unrelated but best to go for the easiest and most obvious option first If you can get to the vacuum hose as it runs into the servo, start the engine for a minute or so then switch off. Leave it for a couple of minutes then pull the vac hose out from where it enters the servo and you should hear the servo suck air in as the hose comes out. The servo will not hold the vacuum for ever but if it is depleted after a couple of minutes then either their is little vacuum being produced or there is a serious vacuum leak. That vacuum is used to operate the turbo, no vacuum means no turbo power, especially on hills. Check the small rubber hose that runs to the actuator on the side of the turbo, make sure the hose is not split or blocked and check carefully where it slides over the spigot on the actuator as that is a favourite place for it to split If vacuum is ok then come back and we will try to find out what else it could be.

The original poster sorted the lack of boost by replacing the MAF but confirmed the fault before doing this by disconnecting its electrical plug which let the van run better. This would have been in limp mode so the performance would still have been limited. Apart from checking the vacuum pump, some thoughts on the brakes. There could still be some air in the brake hydraulics and it might need the abs pump bleeding which requires diagnostic equipment. Where the brake master cylinder bolts to the servo have a look for any leaking brake fluid which can indicate the outer seal leaking but not the internal ones, also look in the footwell to see if any fluid is running out of the back of the servo. Does the servo retain vacuum overnight, shown by pumping the brake pedal before starting the engine - if not it could be a sign of a vacuum leak on the servo side of the non return valve on the hose to it or a faulty non return valve. If you push the brake pedal quickly does it still sink as far since I have found on some Citroen brakes the pedal response depends on how quickly you are braking. Another thing, is the handbrake adjusted correctly - if not it could lead to excess brake pedal travel since it can prevent auto adjustment of the brakes shoes/pads.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have the fault code and freeze frame data from when you did the diagnostic check to say it was over boost and do you have any live data of the pressure ? Possibilities can include the MAP sensor could be faulty or bunged up with oil/carbon. On a recent post the over boost for a 1.6 hdi Berlingo should be about 0.6 bar.

icelolly has not been on here since May 2016 so we are unlikely to find out how the connection was made. If there is a 12 volt socket near the front of the car you could simply plug the sat nav in to that and save having to cut the plug off it but run the wire behind the dash/trim. If you do not wish to have the plug you could cut it off and then tie in its wires to the wiring to the 12 volt socket but make sure it is an ignition controlled supply to avoid the battery going flat.

You need to use a meter to check the battery voltage, should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts before starting the engine and then about 14.4 volts once running. Or if you went to a car accessory shop they could do a battery voltage drop test and then sell you a new battery if you need one. Less than about 12.3 and the battery needs charging or replacing. If you do not get about 14.4 volts once running the alternator or wiring or alternator drive belt may be faulty. At 8 years old though chances are the battery needs replacing but you can check the battery connections as well as the voltage in case they are not tight or clean. If you have a good voltage on the battery then it could be the starter motor that needs replacing or overhauling or there is a wiring problem. The indicator might be showing green if the battery has about 12.5 volts but if the cells in it are in poor condition it may not have much capacity so is unable to turn over the starter motor/engine - another sign of this is if it is charged up off the car and a good voltage is reached quickly instead of over many hours. It might take many minutes or hours for the lights to drain the last bit of the battery so is not a good test - the lights may be around 10 amps whereas the battery will be about 80 Ah so could run the lights for about 8 hours if fully charged.

There is a history of Citroen on their website but it has no mention of the origin of the chevron and only starts with the cars http://www.citroen.co.uk/about-citroen/our-brand/history

Welcome to the forum. Possibly the sensor itself is faulty and needs replacing. The ecu may possibly be getting the rpm signal from a camshaft sensor rather than the crankshaft one. What was the fault code and are you still getting it after deleting it ? If I remember I will move this topic to the C4 section later.

On a cold day the smoke you can see out of an exhaust is water vapour that is condensing (like a kettle boiling) and continues to show until the exhaust gets warm. It looks worse on a petrol car than a diesel. It tends to look white. The water comes from burning the diesel or petrol which gives mainly carbon dioxide and water. If you place a hand near the end of the exhaust whilst this is happening it will get wet and you might also see water dripping out of the end of the exhaust. You can also check the coolant level since a head gasket failure can result in a lot of water vapour in the exhaust.

It might also impact on used car sales up to one year old where I suspect a proportion of the initial tax charge will be paid. I suspect most family cars fall into the 151 to 165 CO2 area which now has an initial first year tax of £185 and will rise to £500. So the next 3 months will be good for new car sales and then maybe the following 6 months for nearly new car sales until the post April cars come on the market. Some of the fuss about diesel cars being bad for the environment may also be a move by the government to get people to go for petrol cars with the higher CO2 and higher tax rates and hence higher fuel consumption and extra fuel tax collected, but then is CO2 not bad for the ozone layer which seems to have gone quiet for now.

Was the speedo working before you changed the ecu ? I have read that the speedo and bsi both record the mileage on Citroens and if either is changed the car ecu/speedo will adopt the highest mileage of the ecu or speedo. So if the replacement ecu had more miles on it than your old one, then your speedo will then show the higher miles. Similarly if you replaced the speedo, it will show the mileage of the ecu or speedo whichever was the highest. This could be a problem with your insurance which usually has a mileage limit on it so you would need to be able to show them what had happened or you could use a company that can alter the recorded mileage.

Could be on a 2 year 20k mile service interval but that would only be using the correct oil and dealer filter - but most of us would not wait that long to change the oil/filter.