Randombloke

Which sort of C5 is it? On my 2.2 HDi estate the cable ends at the throttle pot behind the battery, under the box where the various ECUs for the engine live. The slack can be adjusted there. I would first get someone to sit in the car, engine off, and floor the throttle. Then you need to see if the there is any further travel in the pot with the cable fully tight. If not, tightening the cable further will result in the pot reaching the end of its travel while the pedal is still proud of the floor, and then the cable or pot is more likely to get damaged/break. I thought the throttle on my C5 was way too slack, but the throttle is short travel, sits way below either of the two other pedals, and on examination was found to be as tight as it needed to be. The cable is easy to adjust, but access to the area is the problem.

Hi Jimmy, Is your car a Mk1 (->04) or Mk2 (04->)? According to the Mk 2 manual I have, deadlocking is only engaged when you press the lock button on the fob twice quickly or one long press. If so, try not using the deadlock function. On the Mk 1 it is not possible to lock the car without deadlocking using the remote. You can lock the car without deadlocking using the key, but the initial turn deadlocks, the car, a second, and immediate turn of the key removes the deadlock but leaves the car still locked. Does the fuse blow when you use the lock button on the dashboard? I suspect yes. However, if no, then the deadlock maybe the source of your problem.

Extra note on fuel consumption - a roof rack plus hang glider is causing between 3 and 5 mpg damage to the car fuel economy. Probably similar to a roof box, as the blockage ratios are about the same.

It sounds like an actuator is sticking or stuck. Have you had any previous experience of one door not opening or locking ever? This is where I would start looking. I've not looked at the wiring in detail but I think you will have to find a way to drop each door lock actuator off in turn, and when the fuse stops blowing that's the faulty one. Is it a saloon or estate? Any leakage into the rear hatch/door may have caused the actuator there to seize, and it's not that hard in the estate to get to it and disconnect it. Also check that the fuel flap locking pin has not been bent or damaged in any way, as that also locks when the car is locked. You may be able to check this by locking the car with the fuel flap open. All an educated guess, one of the Citroen techs may soon tell you the exact truth.

Given that you have both this and the central locking fault referred to elsewhere, is it not time for a system reset? After the necessary wait after the engine switch off (>15 minutes) to allow the system to store all settings, the battery needs to be disconnected and left off for a short while. On reconnection you will know if the faults are more permanent. Please make sure you read up on the battery disconnection before doing it. Doing it wrong will cause you a lot of hassle. Make sure you also have the radio code if it is needed BEFORE disconnection.

Any chance of some further info like an auction number or title? This is what I need.

No. It had to have the lambda sensor replaced. This cured the stuttering fault. She had a number of receipts for the defective fuel sold in the UK by the two chains mentioned earlier, and was able to claim from them as they confirmed the time and date of purchase of the fuel meant it was from the defective batch.

Have you checked that you did not fill up with the affected Tesco/Morrisons problem fuel? This has caused a lambda sensor failure on a friend's 206.

Another solution: Take the car through its full range of height settings several times. I suspect the height correctors may get sticky as they no longer get put through their whole range of movement since anti sink vales were fitted to Xantias etc in the mid 1990s. Worth a go? Also are you sure of LDS fluid level in the reservoir? Also worth a check?

Improvement is better than I thought. Getting 41.5 to 43 on trip computer checked by tank to tank manual calculations at 70-80 mph, mostly French motorway driving. This over about 1,300 miles. Sh*te old C5 seems to be going well. Had up to 47 on a half tank that involved a lot of dual carriageway driving between 50 and 65 mph. Town and hilly, slow countryside is still rubbish, but not done much of that. I'm now going to say that seems that for reliability and economy, plus avoiding DPF costs the 6 speed Mk 2 C5 2.2 (post 2004) is the one to go for if you want a 2.2. As has been said elsewhere if economy is your no 1 priority, then choose a smaller engine. But the combination of power and the Hydractive 3+ has me convinced.....

iannez is more or less right. I buy Citroens as the depreciation in the UK is appalling and at the 4-5 year mark when I buy them they are probably about 2/3rds to half the price of the equivalent VW. However, I would get a C5 with Hydractive 3+ as this is the boy. (Exclusive or Exclusive SE) I would advise against buying a VW, just find the equivalent Skoda and buy that. If you are going to keep the car for 10 years then you may as well have VW bits at Skoda prices, and the lower residual will not bother you. My experience of VW/Audi is that the Quality Control is not as good as it was, but it is still ok. There are an enormous number of Skodas in the UK being used as taxis. They have gone from being 0% of the market in taxis ten years ago to probably some 25-35%. Octavias seem to go well but can destroy gearboxes at about the 125-150,000 mile mark. On the other hand, a Citroen is like a dog. It's not just for Xmas but for life. If you doubt this ask any C5, XM, CX, BX, SM or DS owner.

I've now done some 1,300 miles since the change of filter. After the first tank of diesel, things improved very markedly on the economy front, with a 3 to 4 mpg improvement at a slightly higher speed. Prior to DPF change, long term fuel economy according to computer was 38-ish mpg mixed driving over 1,500 miles. Checks via tank to tank gave 37-39. Since DPF change, fuel consumption is now 41-42 mpg over 1,300 miles since service. Tank to tank manual gives 41-43 mpg. This is an improvement as the last 1,000 miles have been done at 75-85 mph target speed on the French motorways not 70 mph on British ones. Things are still improving with much better mpg on runs with 50-60 cruising in traffic. I'm seen up to 47 mpg. This was a number I was never near prior to the DPF change.

Did you lock the car? I now always lock the car as soon as I'm done as it will start the self revelling action as soon as it is unlocked and does not stop until it is locked. Locking the car from the outside via key or wireless turns off the self levelling AFAICT. Lock the car and see if this cures the problem.

Some slight improvement in fuel economy after the DPF change. That improvement is despite doing the distance at a higher average speed. Will report back after a long trip this weekend.

I've now done some 500 miles since the DPF change. Economy does not seem to be much better, but performance is. I have a run to the Auvergne (France) to do starting Sat, will see how it goes. Car is superb for long distance blasts, and handling is improved after the replacement of anti roll bar links.

I'm not Eddie but: Particulate filter £143.75 Eolys fluid £77.59 Labour for this and the rest of the 75k service - £235.20 now add VAT to that. For the rest of the 75k service, the usual filters and oils.

VIN sent by PM. Thank you.

Hi guys, Another question. The car has now had its 72k service and a check of the aerials and cabling says the "Traffic Master ECU" is faulty. I'm assured that the Traffic Master unit itself is fine, but that is the ECU through which the feeds go (including the aerial?) is at fault. It's about £350+. I'm also told that the ECU in question is a Telemark one. Can anyone shed any light on this? Can anyone provide a part number for this ECU on a 2002 2.2 HDi equipped with Traffic Master? Can anyone also verify the Traffic Master unit and this ECU are actually separate? Has anyone ever swapped one of these out? The risk I'm told is that when the nit is removed, the licence will be forgotten, and a new or s/h box will need to be re-licensed. Is the unit the same as the one used in other Citroens which use an external aerial for TM?

Please note these figures are for a 2.2 HDi with 5 speed box. French manual says SAE 75-80W, 1.8 litres in total, no change interval advised but checks every 60,000km or 4 years. There is a drain bolt on the bottom of the box, rearmost flange where the LHS drive shaft exits, and the level check bolt is above this, possibly the rearmost bolt on the 'box. Worth checking to see if it's the same for the 6 speed.

You do not necessarily need to get a complete key with the remote fob. You can get a garage key much cheaper. I have simply got a garage key as the spare. It is worth getting the confidential code form Citroen as you will need it if ever you lose the key, then is not the time to try and order it.

You can buy voltmeters that plug into the cigarette lighter. They give a digital readout. That might give a clue. You can then see what the battery voltage is all the time. Have you checked the pos and neg straps are in good condition? I replaced these on my BX after verifying that there was nearly a volt more across the battery than was appearing on the cig lighter socket. This solved the problem. However, if you get good cranking on starting, disregard this suggestion.

It was definitely an option on the hatchback, but not many were bought. They were child size seats and faced backwards, as well as folding away. I have never seen an Estate with this option, and I think if it was a factory option then like the 7 seater 406s there would be a few about. My gut feeling is that it is a retrofit.

Yes. On my car you simply grasp the back part of the plastic cover behind the button (the rearmost part of the whole assembly), and carefully wiggle. The large plastic upside down U that covers the back of the switch and the bolt for the wiper arm simply slides off, and the switch is ready to be carefully unclipped. I can take some pics Friday if you are stuck. PM me to remind me if you are.

C5 annoyances specific to second hand cars The previous owner does not have the card with the confidential code. You'll need this for new keys and Citroen now charge for re-issuing it. The previous owner has only one key. Maybe consider just getting a garage key without the expensive “plip” bit on the back. The previous owner does not have the manual. You'll have to get a new one from Citroen or eBay. More annoying is the people who have bought a manual for the Mk 2 version but own a Mk 1, like the guy who sold me mine. There is no evidence of cam belt changes (c. 100k) or DPF changes/Eolys replenishment (50k, 72k). This affects mostly 2.2 HDi cars. If buying a car with about 90+K on it factor in the belt change. If buying a car with 50k, 72k or 100k on it check via RPN when the Eolys/DPF is due, and if it has been done. The rear screen is incredibly unlikely to still work. Have you got the gaffa tape, soldering iron and wire? The corrosion inspection at four and six years will probably not have been done. The sun roof sticks (intermittently) or does not work. Without the manual you will not know that pushing and holding the control upwards into the roof over rides the pinch protection and will let you shut the sun roof in an emergency if it has stuck or got out of sync with the control. The reporting valves tell you the tyres are under inflated or flat/damaged when they are fine. The car has 4 random brands and treads of tyre. The central locking will not work on one or more doors. The pinch prevention on the windows might need recalibrating, and without the manual you will not know that there is a procedure you can try yourself. The aerial has rusted on and will not unscrew with getting broken. New aerial and base needed. The headlights are wickedly expensive and worth buying acrylic covers for. Most of these are problems caused by people, and are not problems with the C5 itself. I've simply mentioned them to help others avoid or haggle over these issues, and hopefully thrown some solutions into the pot. For those looking to DIY, the French manual mentioned elsewhere is an enormous help, and can replace the Drivers manual if your French is good enough.

My RPN is 10511 and in fact the change is due at 72,000 miles. Seeing as I intend to go off into Europe for a big tour this summer I'll do it and take the hit. I've already been quoted and booked in for 72k service. I had to tour France last year in a Merc with a limitation due to the brake pads being changed and the OBD not having been reset - the damn car was rev limited. So, I'll simply burn the cash and forget it for another 72k miles. Usually I get rid of cars between 160 and 180k. This one may go at 130. I'd hate to have to limp home or do without the car for a few days if away on hols. @ kfk Thanks very much for taking time to post advice, it's much appreciated. @ other posters: All other checks have been done. The car was checked immediately after purchase for dragging brakes, handbrake adjustment and the tyres are always checked and if not would nag me via the valve sensors if low pressure. I'm thinking that air filter and DPF change should have a + ve effect. Just out of interest, have their been any air mass flow sensor problems on C5s? I know there has been an issue on Audis, and IIRC they also use Bosch sensors.