Randombloke

O2 has some very good PAYG and contract SIM only deals ATM. As DaveK says, make sure you haven't got Bluetooth first.

Can you be more specific about which year and model? I can make a number of suggestions for a mk1 2.2 HDi Exclusive but those will be no good if you have a mk2 1.6 HDi. Maybe the display has been selected to the external input? On some models you can look from within the trip computer menu and pull up the last warning you missed, if it's still current.

This sounds like you will need to check all the fuses (are they seated properly) and ECU connections, battery, the lot. Especially if the battery has the quick remove without tools type terminals. Then it's the button that pops out when the boot is opened, or the contact within the lock. If the contact is within the lock then a small squirt of WD40 might fix it. You need to find out where the contact is for the boot bulb. This may be a good time to find an independent guy who can read all the fault codes and write them down for you. Lastly, check the battery voltage and if any doubt at all then get it tested. C5s have been known to misbehave with low battery volts even when the engine cranks ok.

Make sure that the Navidrive CD is loaded in the unit. It would be worth you telling us if the unit is an RT3 or RT4 one, and also looking to see if you can get a second hand manual either from eBay, or Citroën themselves. Be worth ejecting and reloading the CD to see if that makes any difference, and that the CD is for the right area and not scratched.

Do you unlock it with the key or the remote? Have you measured the battery voltage? When you unlock the car the hydraulic pump runs and this drops the battery voltage. If it is already down this could cause a problem with the immobiliser. Is it an estate or hatchback? Be worth going round and seeing if all the contactors are getting pressed in, and if they pop out when the doors are opened. Also a good look to see that the doors all shut properly, if not a slight adjustment to the mechanism to make them shut tightly may do it.

How close did you get to the obstacle? Does the car have a tow bar? On my car it's only in the last metre that the sensors start to make a noise. Also, some tow installations disable the reversing sensors, but only when a trailer is connected. Worth looking under the rear bumper to be sure nothing has been disconnected?

iannez, top bloke! Thank you :blink: I've just put some silicon spray on the unused end of the belt, let it all back in, and there is a big improvement. Later.

And you're not kidding on the 2.2!! My local indy garage suggested to me that I have the belt done early at 84k as they have had 3 failures between 90 and 100k. The boss took me into the workshop and showed me a C8 halfway through the fix. The worst thing is that a belt failure can cause the chain to fail. The collection of busted parts is not nice and wickedly expensive. Cars, eh? That's why Jap bikes have used chains since the early 1980s, and have produced cam chain tensioners that last the life of the engine since the 1990s. Can someone please drop off a 16 valve 4 cylinder Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki/Yamaha engine at the PSA headquarters on the outskirts of Paris. They could make some notes.

And no details on the necessary reset for the ECU?

I had a FAP and the fluid done here in the UK (2.2 HDi 136). Price for the FAP was £143.75, so about €200. Price for the fluid was £77.59, so about €110. You need to look at going somewhere else for this service, but having said that, mine is a 2.2 not a 1.6. kfk or iannez, any thoughts? Is the later 1.6 much more expensive than the earlier (Mk 1) 2.2?

I always turn the radio off manually. Could be a fault on the radio or the COM 2000 unit that controls it via column stalks. After the comments you made in your other post in the other section looks like you have a COM 2000 fault. About £350. Later.

Before you remove the door interior, Try repeated lock/unlock using the button on the dashboard. Also, try locking the car with the driver's door open. This sometimes will unlock the rear door when the locking fails and all doors unlock. AS for the rear suspension fault, look at the rear tyres from a way behind the car. Are one or both of them splayed outwards? Swing arm bearings worn if so, I think.

Why do people spend so much extra money on something that simply heats ATF? The last 60 years of autobox development has 40 of those years invested in trying to make the auto work with petrol engines. Only in the last 10 years has the direct engine with massive torque come along, and yet the auto boxes on these cars still slip the torque converter a lot of the time, heating ATF and wasting diesel. Save money, get a car with a manual box next time and drive in the highest possible gear most of the time. Job done. Here's a tip - if you have H3+ then driving at just under 110 km/h will save you money. Why? At 110 km/h the car drops at the front and rear by different amounts to increase down force and stability. More down force=more drag=more fuel used. Try it yourself!

It is a user set option. There is a control that you can use to fold the mirrors in the drivers door, manually. If you operate that the way you normally would to fold the mirrors away but hold it for 5+ seconds, the mirror folding on locking is enabled/disabled as a toggle. HTH. Disclaimer: Works on my 2002 2.2 HDi estate.

Is the the accelerator cable loose/slack? It may be worth checking that is correctly adjusted. It's also worth checking that there is nothing carpet or mat-like stuck under the pedal to prevent full travel. It may not be a good idea to keep stamping - this could make the stretch worse.

If the Eolys fluid gets low then you will get a message from the car. I think there is a small tank under the rear seat somewhere.

It's 3.0 bar at the rear for heavily laden on the 2.2 HDi estate. HTH.

Is there an alarm back up battery anywhere? When these get old they fail and start to flatten the battery. The ones I've found the problem with are aftermarket alarms, especially if they interface with central locking for a remote lock or plip type function on the car. If this is the case a new Ni-Cad will have to be soldered into the alarm unit. Get a meter and set it to measure current, connect the battery to the car via this then watch it whilst pulling the fuses on by one with the key NOT in the ignition lock. When the current drops to zero you've found the offending circuit.

I have also had an "Anti Pollution fault" warning recently. It was traced to the Swirl Chamber control valve. Replaced and all fine.

This could either be a VAN bus type problem or maybe even the dreaded COM2000. Trafficmaster mutes the radio, so if it muted the beeping, then it came from the radio. In the last year I had two brief faults (no cruise control, radio powered down on using column stalk to change volume) then a permanent Airbag warning. The brief faults lasted only until the car was stopped, and were not there at next start. At the 87.5k service the COM2000 unit was changed, and the problem of the airbag solved. I'm interested that the COM2000 unit was marked with what looked like a date of manufacture, 2 years newer than the car, so it's on its 3rd COM2000 unit.

IIRC the PSA test fleet has been running on various level of bio diesel mix for a while. You may find more if you Google for PSA Peugeot Citroen Bio diesel mix. Given the enormously high pressure that HDi runs at, you'll want to be very sure before you try it.

I have Trafficmaster in my car and it costs about £30/year. It's very useful and acquires the information as soon as it's within coverage. Coverage is motorways and main A roads. It tells you of traffic jams up to 3 junctions or ten miles ahead IIRC. The C5 TM installation never needs touching - I run mine in auto mode. It mutes the radio if the unit is set to auto and will allow you to avoid jams in the short to middle distance. I've found it reliable, but you must know how the system works to get the best from it.

The cam belt connects the crankshaft to the rearmost of the twin overhead cams. A short chain connects one of the cams to the other. When the belt fails there is usually damage to the chain as well. Saw a C8 with this problem, very costly. Belt was changed last week at 85k. Wheels were rebalanced and the 65-70 slight wobble is now gone.

I bought Dunlop SP2000s. Not noticed a problem. However, most of my mileage is motorway and I tend to drive sedately, as this is the only way to get over 40 mpg now that diesel is £1.05 a litre.

IIRC it says tell the dealer at the first service and they'll turn it off for you. That's what the unused tag in mine said, but then if yours is a Mk 2, it may be different.....