iannez

it would be a good idea to contact a company who carry out head work. just so you know for sure.

did one last week. lift the striker up and it will not make contact with the bumper.

was it not economy mode

theres a handle on the back of the seat back right in the middle. it works like a door hanle. just lift it up.

the link arms pop off if you put them on when its frosty. can you hear the motor running.

unclip the small trims on each side of the radio and you will see 2 torx 20 screws. remove these and the radio pulls out. wire runs along back of dash and up one of the a-posts (think its drivers side) into roof and across to ariel base.

DickieG. its the normal stalk (2 way roller.) does not have limiter on and you will have to config bsi and inj ecu. one is rvv and the other is cruise ctrl. turn them both on, let the bsi shut down and that should be it.

wont get much of a buz off 12v unless there licking the badge.

sound like a bug. most probs reset once bsi had shut down again.

yes. the warrenty is the same and your unit will be swapped for a new one. clarion and seimens vdo are exchanged old for new. the blapunkt multi changers and headunits will be swapped if under a year old but will be sent away for repair if over.

if it was only working on high speed it will have been the resistor. if its gone off altogether now it might be the resistor has gone down altogether or a diffrent fault. try a resistor first as you needed one anyway and go from there. when you go for part ask dealer for wiring diagram (the three sheet one) and one of the sheets will have a picture of the car showing where all the components are located.

yes m8. our ct fit one last week. diffrent stalk to the old ones as they have speed limiter. (three way roller switch.) the also have to be configured diffrent. find out tomorrow exactley how he did it. he just ran through it quickley with me and didnt realy take it in.

you havent got someone sitting in the drivers seat with the door shut have you. these have a anti jack lock. if you start the car and pull forward a bit the boot will lock and wont unlock untill the drivers door is opened.

if the hazards are not coming on under extreme braking they ar not configured. they come on at any speed. ask dealer to activate them next service. diagnostic check is part of service (ask for check list) so tool is already connected so should not charge you. the esp works along side your traction ctrl and abs. what it does is apply a brake individually keeping the car straight. your car has a gyroscope that detects what the car is doing and checks this against the steering wheel angle sensor and as soon as the car is not pointing the same way as the steering wheel it will apply a brake to pull it straight again. the abs and tcc work the same as any other car.

have you owned your c5 from new. just wondering if someone has already had them off and copperslipped them. your right about personel experience but i do at least 2 of these a week and have never had one that i've never had probs with.

you have to remove the whole light unit. get a long screwdriver and if you look in the square you will see a metal triangular clip. prise it up and the whole lamp will fall out.

if its not the right code you can't blame the dealers. we've had cars in without the code card and when you ask the owner for it they rut through there draws at home untill they find it. the problem is the card they find is from the citroen they owned previous to the one they have now and there is no way of telling which card is for which car. the dealer where the car is bought normally makes a note of the code on pdi and keep it on there computer with the cars details. this is not on a data base that can be checked by other dealers. unless you know where the car was purchased your dealer will have to apply to citroen uk for it. dosent take long for them to send it. usually same day.

Funny how these myths get started. C5 brakes are similar to those on previous Xantias and BX's, all three of which I've run over the past sixteen years. I've never found any trouble with calipers seizing, however what you will find is that over time, corrosion will build up between the caliper and the suspension arm. The corrosion will cause the brakes to sqeal and make the pads wedge shaped. It's a fairly easy job/not a too costly job to get the corrosion removed. your post is spot on m8 apart from the easy bit. every one i've done the bolts have been seized solid and some have even snapped resulting in a new caliper. where the 2 components meet the steel causes the aluminum to oxidize and push the calliper out this puts a slight bend in the long bolts that go through a hole that is already tight and full of locktite making it extremely difficult to draw the bolts back far enough to remove the caliper. it will take a good hour a side with a power bar and the only impact guns that will remove them are the titanium ingersol rand ones (thats how tight they are) and if your going to do it your self remember to replace the 8mm bolt after removing the pads or the calliper will split when you are removing it.

remove the plastic clip and look at the wiper its the same as any wiper anywhere. the way you fit the clip decides which way round the wiper goes. if its a citroen wiper the black dot faces up so the sun can activate it and if it has a spoiler fitted then that faces down. as i said remove the clip hold the wiper against the screen and you will see how it needs to be fitted.

2.0 hdi = 90 bhp. 1.8 16v = 130. sounds funny i know but drive them and make your own mind up. hdi will run rings round petrol below 100mph.

all the dealer part wipers are for l/h drive cars over here anyway as there made in france and shiped over here. you just remove the clip and turn it over and that makes it fit r/h drive cars.

check the springs. most of them had cups fitted to the suspension struts. it was a recall to stop the spring ripping open the tyre if it snapped. all that happens now is if the spring snapps (which one will at some point in its life) the cup catches it and will not be noticed untill mot.

i know the c5's with xenons flick up to the left but dont know about the c4's. none of them are old enough for mot yet.

if you look at the lens you will see it has a small hole ether side of it. use a small pointed pick and place the point in one of the holes and gentley lever it away from the light. the lens will fall off.

just ring a pugoet dealer and ask them to cross refrence part numbers to be sure but i think they will be the same.