iannez

putting my fog lights on and tilting mirrors works for me.

go here mate. http://www.armorall.co.uk/armorallproducts/extra2.html i use the matt finish ones so the dash does not reflect off the windscreen.

you will need some bond or a hot glue gun to replace blind as the steel cover that holds it in place is stuck to the door card. you can get modified hooks for the blind so it slips off if you open the door rather than damage it as this is usually how they are damaged.

checked mot handbook and there is no mention at all about hid xenon headlamps.. as long as theres a beam pattern and they are the right level it will pass. also yes the bulb does not burn as hot but the colour temp of the beam is a lot higher. if the lens is clean this passes straight through but if it is dirty (realy dirty) it will focus on the inside of the lens and eventually melt it. try holding your hand on the lens with the lights on for 5 mins.

best way is to remove middle seat and seat nearest door so you can get inside facing the door card on your knees.(door shut) pop the painted trim off from around the opening handle and you will see 2x 20 torx screws. then look along the bottom front corner to find another. remove the plastic trim that runs down the front of the window and you will find the last one in the top of the card. then just pull card towards you and it will come off. refit all the plastic clips making sure you leave none in the door. hook the top of the card over the top of the door into the scraper mould and tap it back on making sure the clips are lined up with the holes and replace screws. good luck

i will have a look in mot hand book tomorrow but i am sure that they only have to be self leveling and have washers if there factoy fit. there is no way you can miss xenons on mot because when you line up beam setter you need a wielding mask to check the hight lol. also if the lens gets to dirty the bulb beam can melt the lens.

you would have to have a can lead for it to work on your car and you would not be able to carry out updates yourself. sorry m8.

there a bit naughty to remove. look into the socket and you will see the bi-metalic clip that holds the cig lighter end when you push it in and make sure it not to close each side. all that can be happening is when you are pushing in the sat nav plug it is pushing the clip against the outside wall of the socket which will cause it to short out and blow the fuse. if it is just bend them so they are centre. remove fuse first tho.

it unscrews m8. if it realy tight wrap some tape around it so you dont mark it an use grips.

you most prob have not got both locators lined up. theres 2 of them.

i fit loads of heater boxes before this mod came out. proper nightmare.

we used to fit garman street pilots. we just pulled door seal away from front of door and ran the wire down the gap and pushed the seal back on and it coverd and held the wire in place. then cut off the plug and hard wired it into ignition. we now fit tom toms and these have a voltage dropper in plug so they can not be hard wired so we just hard wire lighter socket instead and cable tie it up behind dash and just plug in the socket.

to be honest i dont think there is many of the hot hatches these days will do a great lot with a c4 2.0 hdi. like them a lot better than the 180 2.0 petrols as you dont have to ring there necks to get them to go. torque is the way forward. with a decent map one should get somewhere near the same torque as a m3 as the golf 150tdi's do. go on do it lol.

if your pedal was heavy it sounds like pressure plate fault or poss slave cylinder.

for all citroens now you would need a can lead and a comunication card to read ecu's because of multiplexing and would cost more than the laptop you would need to run the software. the com card for a lexia (citroen diag tool) is around £500. snap on and mac diag tools cost between £1500 - £2500 and only read live data from inj and airbag ecu's and erase faults. we bought 2x lexia 3s about 3 year ago with break out boxes and stands for £7000 each. so if you want diy updates or diag it would be cheaper to buy a vw, seat, audi or skoda. if you do go for a leon cupra r. there the dogs golloks. (i have one) lol.

could be crank shaft oil seal. sounds a bit funny for such low miles and you would have had to of had it smoking to burn it out when you were stuck.

you dont need diag tool to fit these. also the climate ctrl panel is a lot easier to fit than normal panel as it has no cables just multi plugs.

we had a c5 with similar fault a few months ago. started with wheel balance then drive shafts. no diffrent. then gearbox. just the same. then went for fly wheel. it wasnt that. then fit a new engine and guess what. still the same. turned out to be the off side driveshaft carrier bearing. worth checking.

if the compression is down on a cylinder it will be piston rings and not worth messing with if it runs ok. dont use redx etc as this removes carbon and will make it worse. diag tool will be needed to read the ecu fault but as with the other fault if it runs ok leave it alone.

we use anti-friction tape around the inside of picasso doors to stop it but dont think it would work on c4 as seals are on doors instead of body.

dont do it mate. i worked in a bodyshop for 3 years. its ok if you dont mind breathing in bodge dust and paint fumes and cutting your hands to bits on body panels. light stuff is ok but putting back axels in big 4x4s on the floor and re-shelling is a nightmare.

i work them out like this. £60 paint materials per panel. about 5 hours labour to paint single panel if its edge to edge, extra 3 hours per panel if it needs blending and about 3 hours for a decent size repair. labour charge at about £25 per hour. so your looking about £260+vat so wozzas right and this post is pointless now i've worked it out.

done a few of these recentley. always had to fit new door cards in the end and also tape door handle cable to door while its off just incase it taps against the card.

you have to wind the adjuster right out on the rear brakes by hand so the shoes are nearly catching the drum. the travel on your pedal is the distance the shoes travel before they make contact with the drum. i know you would think the self adjusters should do this but they dont. your nearly there now mate.

take photo with camera phone so you know where springs go when you fit it back up. you will need to use old handbrake arm as you dont get it with the shoe kit so take care removing the clip/washer as you will need to re-use it. i use a deep 10mm socket to slide it down onto new shoe.