techbod

80k or ten years is the official but that depends on what year and engine the car is, that's for the 2.0 HPI from 2000/04 and the HDI is 100k for the same age.

yellow would be a switched live so only live when the ignition is on, the printed circuit is for heated screen and aerial, check the wiring where the body joins the door as this part tends to crack and short out due to opening and shutting the door ( its covered by rubber belows so cant be seen and very common with this issue ) not everything gets 12v because the relays drop the voltage for obvious reasons like fires due to over heating and short circuits, I know it sounds silly but that's what fuses and relays do.

im still going for the C/V joint because I just put a scenic through its MOT and both joints were screwed and they didn't show up on the MOT ( they are not a fail unless they are really bad ) basically they cant be tested unless the car is moving/steering turning that's when you get the clunk and the MOT doesn't do that apart from testing the breaks, a wheel bearing gets louder in a straight line so its not that, a clunk over pot holes are normally suspension related ( link arms/tie rod ends.bushings lower ball joints ) even engine mounts squeeze the rubber C/V boot to check if there is any grease in there?.

the C/V loint is deseptive because of the noise and more noticable on turning but if it were realy bad then it could be heard all the time due to the break down of the bearings in it which would mean the drive shat would be imballanced ( nothing wrong with the drive shaft ) but it would throw the shafft off ballance hence your problem.

the relay can be a pain but if it overheats then its possible its burned the wiring and weakened it which causes the light to come on ( similar to cutting power to the injectors ) safety would be a good reason to prevent a fire so an investigation of the relay and wiring from it would be a good start.

in most cases they are just pushed on and held via a spring so a fine screw driver will pry them off, some have a screw going through to hold the thing in place but this is easily seen so if nothing visible then they pry off.

this sounds like the C/V joint and very common when turning because that's when the bearings in it mesh so if they are breaking down or have no grease in them the noise gets louder mainly when cornering.

if it has rotary buttons they have to be eased off to get at the screws to remove the front panel to gain access to the bulbs.

http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/glueh...agnosehilfe.php possible the glow plugs or the relay, nothing wrong with the dealers that a block hammer cant sort out lol.

but im still here :rolleyes:

removing the seat and airbag would depend on if you removed the battery negative only before you did the work, if you remove the live from the battery and not the negative that would put the light on because you haven't reset the SRS ( airbags )? up to do that only the negative has to be removed and the live remains connected, that's how to reset the SRS system.

flashing airbag light mean the passenger air bag is turned off and often its down to the switch not making a good connection so try switching it off and on a few times.

even if I hold it in manual it still drops a gear and revs its nuts off with no power! your tranny has a problem because it shouldn't do that so check the linkage ans see if its stretched/loose ( same thing on cruise control ) if things fall out of parameters they cant read the speed of the engine/tranny and do odd things ( also blocked filters and spent fluid due to age/raging of speed burns the viscosity out of the fluid making it weak) if its drive by wire then its software related and hasn't been programmed right. same as oil if the engine is treated like a racing car the oil breaks down its protection due to heat and has to be changed more often, also consider a blocked tranny air vent.

Citroen is just a name because it went out of business many years ago and taken over by PSA group so what ever they did to resolve this problem also covers peugeot/Renault/Citroen and guess what FIAT and many more ( think PSA rather than the badge on the car ) :D

it also has your arm rest on it :D .

G12 as used in AUDI long life stuff and red also lubricates the water pump, the colour isn't so much important but the effects are and G12 does it for me.

check for cracks in the wiring in the door jam where they go from the car into the door its possible there is a short there, the solenoid is in the drivers door behind the door card and if that goes south the door wont lock via the remote, http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...=/images%3Fq%3d Central%2Blocking%2Bsolenoid%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 that's the type of solenoid your looking for and its close to the locking mechanism ( damp weather tends to seize them up ), you heard a buzz so that probably is a short in the wiring or the solenoid failing.

he wants it to stay in lower gears for longer so reading between the line that means more umpf/performace and the use of tiptronic is the way there, I see where your going on the ECU requiring relearn if more than one driver.

very true mate but as it was only and update I doubt it would improve performance that much and what he wants is performance and that's a specialist area and expensive so citroen wont touch it because its against there rules ( safety and warranty ) :D

wise choice most try to tighten the sphere when the system is up to pressure and that fails big time because you need the pressure out of there and the car jacked up so this in its self poses a problem ( pressure out car on the deck ) so you need to bleed the air out while the rear is on Axel stands, then the tools required like a chain to tighten the sphere or remove it to fit a new seal ( its not really that hard if you understand that much )

its probably just a seal on the sphere but if you don't know how leave well alone as its deadly in untrained hands, check other garages ( not specialists ) most mechanics know how to do Citroen's suspension any mechanic who doesn't know will give you a wide berth.

snow selection only puts it into higher gear when your stuck in the snow so you don't spin the wheels and will only work at very low speed, the gearbox wont do anything for you because its automatic and programmed ( use the tiptronic that lets you use lower gears and stay in them longer ) failing that you need to have the engine and tranny programed by a specialist.

this sounds like a sticking thermostat but also could be the relays not switching between low and high speeds ( not sure if its the same as the xantia which has 3 relays in the twin cooling fan housing ) but you say the A/C cools the system? this implies the the engine cooling system fans have failed, 1/. change the thermostat, 2/. change the coolant temp sensor, the coolant temp sensor switches the fans on at 98 degrees and if the thermostat is stuck it cant do its job hence the overheating, the coolant should be changed every 2 to 3 years with long life G12 which is red and this prevents oxidisation in the system because its alloy based ( aluminium rusts/rots/furs up ) which is the main cause of engine failure ie:- head gasket.

nothing like the proper tools for peace of mind and cheap as well

some people never listen and getting them from a scrappy is silly because Thad's probably why it was there, brand new from eurocarparts £25 each :unsure: