techbod

the ELM327 from eBay is a copy so not the real thing and has its problems the chip set cant be identified because all the writing has been removed but saying that its a damn good copy and similar to lexia 3 copies which are over priced, im still working on the ELM327 and playing with the software and baud rates which seem to be the root of its problems so I would recommend a hand held at the moment because it works but only on engine management

the block is just a branch for the pipes to join up but each pipe has a rubber seal so when you remove the pipe you will see the seal on the end of the pipe and you can buy the seal new from Citroen ( obviously you know how to work with this system because of pressures involved ) Ive never seen the actual alloy block leak like that unless it was down to poor manufacture/excessive rotting of the alloy but I have seen the seals fail or the bolt come loose

the 04 cars will take a standard CAN enabled hand held for engine diagnostic only and don't get carried away with prices as most do the same thing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GS400-OBD-II-2-Scann...86.c0.m14.l1318 and if you got to laptop stuff the ELM327 is pretty controversial at the moment because its hard to get it working http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__citroen-dia...Q_scZ1QQ_sopZ15 http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/_W0QQ_sopZ15?...mp;_trksid=m270

I couldn't say that ;) but since you pointed it out you are correct dealers are around £150+ ish and the locks should have to be replaced and I wont tell you what that costs because it will blow your mind ;)

cumulative air problem or blocked EGR valve/ pipes, im not into the diesels so I can only point to known problems ;)

all the codes are relevant but its only a guide to where or what the problem is, Citroen didn't give any information on P1 codes so ill assume they don't want anyone to know unless its 2004 when they had to by law ( they use P0 codes for the same thing as P1 codes so basically the same thing ) but P1 codes are manufactured detailed codes where as P0 are generic and now the cats out of the bag and most know what the P1 codes are its down to interpretation of the fault and not change things you think are the problem that's when it turns into a mine field and you waste money, if not sure always ask ;)

sounds pretty strait forward, to broke you key in the door? you changed the locks and obviously the key? you only have 1 key?, problem is you need a chip in that key programmed to you ECU/immobiliser ( your broken key will have it in ) so if you hold it near the new key when putting it into the ignition it should disable the immobiliser, if that works you have to figure out how to take that chip in the key to use it with the key your using and because its a security issue I cant tell you how to do that

that's a difficult one because many things can cause that but most common would be injection timing which is electronically controlled Black Smoke This is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for : Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000 miles) Faulty injector pump Dirty air cleaner Turbocharger or intercooler faulty Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)

that was lucky then and a good result ;)

my data doesn't show anything on the C8 but I believe the engine is the same used in the evasion/synergy RHW (DW10ATED4) up to year 2000 - RHY (DW10TD) used in the xara 2001, RHT doesn't show up on my database so i must have difference's and probably a newer engine

pressure at the cap should be 1.4 bar thermostat opens at 83c, its a pity they didn't change the water pump and I have seen the impeller broke off before which means the coolant doesn't get round and the pressure will build up when the engine is off, I also agree with the duel fan speed could be an issue, the water pump would need a pressure test at the filler cap to see if its working and only other way is to remove it or simply look at the coolant and see if its being pumped from the return pipe ( crude method but effective )

It seems some manufacturers are going away from belts in favour of chains .most of the motoring press seem to think this is a good move as the chain lasts the life of the engine saving the owners a lump of cash, actually this is not true at all ask a new Vauxhall/BMW owner but its all down to changing the oil and filter but when the snap the expense is much higher ( but I still agree the chains are getting better ) and timing belt tensioners

welcome to the common fault with calipers and disks, sticking calipers are normally down to rust build up and not a failed caliper so a good clean up of moving parts is the way to go and grease the parts where the pads slot in and the bolt that locks the caliper this is a piston so should be greased with copper slip, the disk screw is a pain and I used an impact screw driver but even these don't help in some cases so drill them out with a thin drill bit so you don't damage the threads or use a reverse drill bit which digs into the screw head and easily available from shops, when fitting new pads remember the pistons have to be turned back in and compressed at the same time and that's been covered here before, garage will always say fit new parts because that's the easy way and a money maker for them ;) pistons have to be turned back in assuming the hand break is on the rear and not like the xantia which are on the front

it could still be a software issue so worth checking with the dealers appols about my other post I was thinking HDI ;) http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/s...;freeText=Blank

seems there was a recall on the fuel system so you might be able to have it done free, http://www.theaa.com/allaboutcars/recalls/...n&makeId=A7

£370 isn't bad as long as they fit a full timing belt kit which includes all tensioners and rollers which I would recommend ( risky changing just the belt as the tensioner tends to be the problem snapping the timing belt ) and water pump, now if they do all that your on a winner

is it a squeak or a rumble? a rumble would say wheel bearing and it gets louder the faster you go

an old Woodie indeed not many around if any at all, Ive never seen one but googled it anyway, http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...l%3Den%26sa%3DN

truly a nice looking estate car there ;)

bad connection to the fuel sender unit more likely, the stalling will be down to the head gasket going ( remove a spark plug and examine it for carbon/oil/coolant and will be clogged ) its not advisable to just change a cylinder head gasket without skimming the head first

true you wouldn't notice at low speeds but when you say MOT are you talking about a test drive who drove it? if he did its easy to hide the problem if the clutch was on its way out ( most people don't know how to test drive cars ) so its always better to take and experienced person with you I help people all the time and saved people from buying a lemon, new 3 piece clutch should be around £200 or less if you know some one who can do it and good luck with it ;)

never heard of that one before but im sure Citroen will know and if your insured fully comp it will cover it apart from the excess which is usually £60 unless otherwise stated on the policy and doesn't effect the no claims

text messages are admissible in small claims court and can be used as evidence

should be on the end of the cable on the gearbox and it should have an automatic tensioner where it goes through the bulk head ( not adjustable ) but they tend to stick and a little wd40 could help there

only the later ones had the chip in the key and they would need diagnostic too to clear it as its part of the immobiliser early one had the keypad near the gear stick, I cant understand why it wont program as that's whet the book says on programming it ( they fob has to be clear of any other cars coding ) to prevent anyone just programming any fob into it, chip and key is a totally different thing