techbod

a quick fix is ok in my book and that's what these sites are all about ( not referring you to the dealer ) and diy go to a dealer if you can afford it if not learn what the site is all about, I do it cheap and in most cases free so compare that with the dealer? ;)

q

not that big of a job really if you have the tools but expect some of the bolts to be hard if not impossible to remove because of excess rust and they snap ( not sure if you will get new bolts over there but you don't here ), engine mount is simple enough find out which one it is the jack the front of the car off the ground and place on axle stands then put a jack under the engine to take the weight while you change the mount

I would have done a quick fix as you mentioned but it wasn't my car lol and the part was a few things which clamp on to the roll bar and everything else connected to the height corrector as it was all shot and second time Ive done it first time I took a part from a scrap car and it lasted 2 years so not bad and the guy wanted a new on this time

strange thing as I have had a few bad ones of late so I always take my multi meter when I buy anything electrical so Ill know if its working, im glad it was a simple fix ;)

advice is given freely to accept is your choice ( would I be offended if some one with experience as you have ) absolutely not ;) any way you have a few years left to catch me up lol ;)

just checked the price again its £21.35 with vat and you don't get a bolt with it so ensure you get the old one out without damage or buy a new bolt ( tight sods ) ;)

I wouldn't say it was a common fault more a failed part with those low miles, let the insurance do their job and ask for a car to use while they sort it im sure its in your policy, it will be covered im sure so don't worry about it as that's the sort of thing where the extra warranty pays off

yes there is its below the driver side but I doubt its that because the way you explain it it has to be the bar on the rear because that's what happens when it breaks you only get the lowest height and the highest, its a simple fix and in the Haynes manual

if you look at the rear height corrector you will see a connecting rod going to the anti roll bar chances are its broke £21.00 all in from Citroen it holds the suspension at the normal driving hight

I wish you well with any repair and hope its not serious ( if you have time take a picture of the area so I can check it out ) ;)

yes in a hot country, in the UK when it has its yearly MOT the oil temp has to be 80c minimum at idle and because its always cold here the engine has to be revved like hell so where you are those temps are easily achieved, happy racing and stay safe appols for edit when you've answered

an understanding on how the EGR system works is essential so I wont go into any major detail because its on the Internet ;)

you are in a hot country and the oil for that is semi synthetic 15W/50 using any thing thinner it will get hotter but that's normal for performance reasons ( the hotter the engine the better the performance ) race driving theory for the track, as long as the coolant bent over heat it should be ok and keep to the service schedule

the water you see near the sphere could be the AC because it freezes the pipes and when you park up it thaws out, check the water pump area if it has high miles it might need renewing ( you will notice it leaking when the engine is off after a run because the pressure is let out through the pump housing ) you wont see it leak wile the engine is running becaue its in motion

EGR can be a pain but just blocking the vacuum line doesn't do much, you can blank it off though but the engine has to be left over night and next day dont even put the keys in the ignition because if you turn the key on then it will see the EGR valve and set it so its know its default setting. you can buy or make a plate up to fit between the EGR valve and block and this like shows you what I mean http://images.google.co.uk/images?hl=en&am...plate&gbv=2 remember though the engine has to be cold and unstarted/not cranked/key not put in :P

my apollos there its because I do many makes of cars and my mind was elsewhere and not thinking Citroen and hydraulic system :( and thanks to kfk for giving the proper answer, ill be a good boy from now on lol :( ps: when you reach my age the mind can wander :P

it sounds like an oil cooler pipe, look at the oil filter and just behind it there are 2 pipes coming out of the part where the oil filter screws in, don't run the engine till its sorted chances are the pipe was weak due to age or the clip wasn't on tight

you've changed the coolant temp sensor? that's linked to the fan I did one the other day same thing fan not working, ensure you get all the air out of the system put the interior blower on hot and run the engine til it reaches normal temp just when the fan is supposed to cut in then bleed the system ( there should be a bleed nipple on the pipe near the thermostat housing ) have got the epc software running yet so don't have any data on the newer cars so I dont know if it has a fuse

its related to a misfire sent from the speed sensor/crank sensor it could just be an intermittent thing and needs clearing to see if it comes back if it doesn't then its a one off and nothing to worry about unless it does it three times then its an issue and will turn the MIL warning light on

its air in the system and complicated to explain ( or im past it lol ) the haynes manual only just explains it

its all down to timing through the ECU, bring back the old ds :P

when I get my software up and running ill post a how 2 or email it to you

that car isn't key chipped like the newer ones so the remote is a separate issue and only for locking for dosnt because it has the key pad immobiliser

I wish you well the XM was/is my favorite and the ds is the fist but diesel yuk worthless ( personal opinion of course )