techbod

EGR VALVE isn't a road side job! but its located on the passenger side of the engine above the gearbox.

I don't know anyone who is prepared for a brain transplant lol those who know it all make the most mistakes then say that's what dad told me out of embarrassment. " HE WHO MAKES NO MISTAKES MAKES NOTHING "

service required oil/oil filter/air filter/some stuff in the tank to clean the fuel system that should do it.

your dad is a prat nothing personal mate hehehe, simple job with the right tools all it needs is 2x new sphears for the rear aprox £50 and when you decide to do it ill be here to help. your dad was wrong because you need both spheres not just one. come on dad ignorance is bliss but when it comes to safety you have to help but charge him the same££££££ :D you must be board costline wazzup man give yor son a smack on the wallet then he will learn then he could call you son of a gun heheheh just noticed that bit sphere(s) now im a prat lol but thats life.

caution when removing the steering wheel because if it has ESP you will need the proper diagnostic gear to set the center of the steering wheel when replacing it ( new tech for you ).

seen this on an audi diesel and it turned out to be vibrating AC pipes in cowling so check all the piping is secure so nothing vibrates, other thing to consider is the heat shield on the exhaust they are a pain for doing that.

pm sent

Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor Checking Check vacuum hose for blockage or leaks. Replace faulty hose. Checking supply voltage - Fig. 11 Technical Data Terminals Voltage A & C = 5 V Ensure ignition switched OFF. Disconnect MAP sensor multi-plug. Switch ignition ON. Check voltage between harness multi-plug terminals. Checking operation - Fig. 12 Technical Data Terminals Condition Voltage A & B Ignition ON 4,8 V approx. A & B Engine idling 1,6 V approx. A & B Engine speed increased 4,75 V briefly Ensure ignition switched OFF. Do not disconnect multi-plug. Access MAP sensor multi-plug terminals. Switch ignition ON. Check voltage between multi-plug terminals. Start engine. Allow to idle. Check voltage between multi-plug terminals. Increase engine speed sharply. Check voltage between multi-plug terminals. its still a PSA group :rolleyes:

hi mate and yes life has to go on so im back on track :rolleyes:

what was the code? it sounds like a fuel/air adaption fault and possibly fuel rail but the code would narrow it down. from BBA. Before sending the unit try the BSI Reset procedure as this may cure your faults: Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.). Switch on the side lights through the driver's window. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds. Remove key open & close door test central locking system. Start the engine and complete the system's check. Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items.

well I would assume it to be 12v which is all the battery can deliver and all the other bits are boosted like when cranking by amplifiers, if the starter motor was getting harder to crank it could require more power and that could blow the fuse also poor earth connections.

good choice :lol:

no need to get confused mate do a google typing the name "FAP FILTER" and "WIKI ELOYS" then it explains what they are and of course DIY is the way to go. johndouglas you say a few spoons full so its the spoons blocking the system ;) j/k ;)

between 198 to 238 amps on cranking.

not sure about the full tank bit ( what if you never fill it? ), http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter interesting read.

did you know you can buy the foam and shape it yourself its called DIY and not that hard if you cant then a breakers yard is the cheapest way.

regenerating ;) sounds like a good cheap way to go, also did you know BMW diesels have a FAP filter and don't have an Eloy's tank so I wonder if they got it right and does the Eloy fluid really work or an expense you can do without?, Eloy's lasts for approx 50k miles its injected at speeds of 50 mph only so not any good round town ( it isn't used as a coolant for the filter or to burn off residue the regeneration does that by heating up the exhaust fumes ) it simply make the filter wet with a gungy fluid to catch the larger particles, I have read up about this Eloy's stuff and its more of an issue than you might think because it creates more dangerous elements into the atmosphere and its documented so it might be keeping the air clear until it has to regenerate and at that one time its not clean especially where it decides to dump its crap, there are quite a few people who drive with the low Eloy's light on and don't care about it try aussiefrogs and other Citroen/pug sits and see what the say don't just take my word for it.

try running it through the rubber grommet on the accelerator/clutch where they go into the cabin.

the keypad is the immobiliser and is linked to the fuel pump so you cant start it if you don't know the 4 digit code, it doesn't have chip in the key which is also known as an immobiliser this system is for newer cars and from I think 2000 when the keypad was replaced with chip in key.

hmmm seem to see this quite regular with the FAP particle filter, the dash light says the Eloy's fluid is low so why change the FAP filter? when it doesn't need it?, the FAP requires regenerating at 50k miles and you could fill the Eloy's tank with diesel ( some might not agree ) but the eloys tank only sees its full or empty not whats in it and it wont harm anything filling with diesel I know of people doing it but its at your own risk of course so im not saying you should do it by any means ;)

the 3.0 v6 isn't like the XM by any means its an all new unit which came out in 2005 as did the car and it was a prototype that made it to the road toboot and I really don't know why they abandoned it in favour of the 2.7 diesel which is not as good on fuel as you might think ( more power = more thirsty ) I don't like diesels but that's my personal choice of course :lol: .

been there and still doing it ( old age I guess ) :lol:

perhaps the pistons weren't pushed fully back and the caliper hammered on to make it fit this would cause the pads to bind, jack the wheel of the ground and spin it to see if it rotates freely.

could be injector/s?

the new bimmers plus many others are the same they need to go into the garage just to change a bulb as it requires diagnostics to set it up now that CAN bus has taken over from EOBD so its better and cheaper to have your own diagnostics these days to save money, that looks a pain to change yours though and all for a parking bulb :lol: .