techbod

electrics are one of those areas that are harder to pinpoint without being on the job and with the proper tools to check it out, I have a good collection of tools just for that but one way without the tools is a battery voltage drop test and that can be done with a cheap multimeter connected to the battery if something is live all the time then removing fuses one at a time would point to the fault but its one of those jobs that takes time so good luck with it http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html

have you fitted an aftermarket radio? check if its left on all the time, does the cooling fan come on when its parked up? coolant temp sensor fail, see if interior lights go out when you lock the car up and also the one in the boot, check all the earth wires to the battery/chassis/engine if they break down with dreaded green fluff it will create a live circuit

16mm long reach socket and extension with ratchet and use a extend-able magnet to get them out as for the coil pack eurocarparts / breakers yard / ebay or search here http://www.google.co.uk/search?um=1&hl...sa=N&tab=iw

sticking solenoid is the problem, http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...6GB297%26sa%3DN

good fun though lol when you get to my age there's not much else to do :P I don't see it as arguing more debating and its a good way of letting your hair down :( if I had some ;)

if you can think of any problem with a car regardless of make or cost im sure we all suffer the same issue but the more expensive charge more lol

the problem with the DI cassette is fitting inapropriot items DI meaning direct ignition ( petrol engines ) not sure about diesel but fitting the incorrect spark plugs/hpi engine or diesel glow plugs will result in the DI unit being over voltage and burn out. just bought a Saab 2.3t as a daily drive awesome motor and leaves the ls400 for dead apart from fuel consumption ;) im thinking the 450 lexus

manufacturers warranty carries on till it runs out regardless of owner/s and some extended warranties are transferable, its all in the small print

the plastic part on the gear shift gate could be the problem and gear stick not going high enough to engage, seen this problem with older cars and just changed the gate or reset it because they come loose some times and get out of line making gear shift harder

yep 2001 when they came in but its not really my area im more a petrol head ;) this explains how this system works http://www.citroenet.org.uk/passenger-cars...c5/c5tech3.html

hmmm sounds like you did a FAP filter regeneration that's that expensive filter in front of the catalyst which requires regeneration every 50k at ridiculous prices ;)

well since you put it like that it does make me feel like a prat but I don't like dealers and they do rip people off, my appols to any one who is not a dealer time to have some quality time I think :(

so its a dealers site and only answer to that is if you have a problem and you want free advice this is not the site for you to get it kfks last answer is also typical of a dealer as its sarcastic to say the least as others who agree with him,I don't want to be a part of a site run by greedy dealers so "up yours" and im off to find a site that really helps people :(

item number 3 http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/1400a37a.jpg the injectors are alive for a short time and the other codes are set because the ignition key is turned off but engine is running on so the ECU gets bogus codes. if it was an older car the stop switch is on the top of the pump the newer ones have a solenoid and on diesels its quite a common issue

engine running on is normally down the the stop solenoid on the pump and possibly a bad glow plug relay making the glow plugs live all the time, the P0380 is the problem here and the others are expected so doubt there is a problem there

so its rattled some cages but that's how democracy works ( it isn't an attack on the dealer as I have stated ) and these sites are to help those who cant afford the dealers prices? or have I got it wrong :( don't take it personal chaps its only a debate :ph34r:

spoken like a dealer :ph34r: now you know why the indi garages are getting all the work :( im not attacking the dealer im just laying a deck of other cards down to get a good responce mind you just how long does it take to run a diagnostic to retrieve the codes ( 5 mins )

the dealer has to break even and with a little profit and that's normal ( I bought a tool, 10 years ago with upgrades yearly?) should I keep charging for its use it was 15k but it delivered results even now, its old but useful and updateable at silly costs, im glad im retired :(

excellent topic and answers so a worthy post indeed and hopefully gets some results through the trade, we all know the cost of tools like diagnostics but you have to have them with the later cars to save time locating the problem due to it being EOBD/CAN bus, bring back the old engines lol j/k :(

you can pack in smoking and drinking :( you can also pack in over charging but as a dealer they cant let go and your answer is a perfect example, I have the diagnostic too and it brings work and I don't charge to plug it in and tell them whats wrong but I do charge £5.00 to clear it when its just a bogus code which the dealer would have done differently :ph34r: , the question here is before you bought the tool didn't you have overheads in the first place and why does this too increase that? we all know you will recoup the cost of the tool so when do you stop charging for it?. it would be nice to see the dealer give something back instead of thinking profit all the time after all to drop the cost of the diagnostic could give more work which means more profit ( the dealers are in a big depression at the moment so anything to give confidence would help ) no one is saying do it for free and your wrong when you say they have to charge as the USA proves like autozone let you use the tool free ;)

yep that lexia stuff is expensive because its multiplexing Omitec do some good stuff in that area for a lot less so keep an eye on ebay diagnostics for that <_<

if the stone chip isn't dealt with and its metallic paint the chances are it will get behind the lacquer and lift it causing even more unsightly problems

if the software update doesn't work then consider the idle control valve or throttle body clean out or even a split/loose vacuum line

not joking at all mate as a business you claim the VAT back and please don't say you don't claim for things through the tax returns, if I were to do diagnostics only then I would have to charge for doing that as that would be the business only but the dealer does the work so they need the tools to start so I call that double dealing and the customer is held to ransom over the diagnostics when the diagnostics could be written off if the customer were to have the work carried out by your self an that would give more confidence in the dealer therefore getting more people to come to you, I cant count the many times people have come to me to have the codes deleted when the dealer wanted to fit new parts that were ok and the problem was bogus codes due to something else like a silly vacuum line was split now that's deception and they get away with it due to the punter not knowing how to repair it themselves. its just an idea im playing with that the dealers might take on board which could increase their standing and business with the customer

clear bra as its called yank term? and not withstanding the warranty even though its very good but costly