techbod

one knock that's all it takes ( your trying to park they are parking ) your not in your car so fit cctv I have :rolleyes:

its not an idle stepper motor as such its an IAC idle control valve and mistaken for the stepper motor which are 2 different things :rolleyes:

road conditions are bad so how do you know someone didn't reverse into your car disabling your toys ( my lexus did this you know that silly bugger advertisement where it parks its self ) well it didn't

its up to the mot tester and should fail if you cant open it when children are in the back but the examiner tends to look at the front doors mainly because of 3 door cars where there is no entry to the rear seats apart from front and rear hatch so in a nut shell it shouldn't fail

very difficult to analyse this sort of problem but random bloke is in my opinion on the button ( apart from striping for spares lol ) most times this sort of problem is down to crank/cam sensor as it cuts the power to the fuel pump and the hairline crack is a very good place to start because when this heats up it expands and would loose contact till it cools then bingo it starts again and rarely leaves a fault code

parking assistant that's the reverse parking sensors ( has it been bumped? ) check rear bumper for damage that's where the sensors are

now this would be of great interest and hope it works

hmmm interesting answer ( a few quid :rolleyes: ) when was the last time you serviced a caliper? truth be known is most never do unless the pads are being changed and even then most don't fully service it, the piston only comes out when the pads ware down so can be cleaned when fitting new pads ( they don't pulse in and out causing score marked as such ), I suppose its how you look at things really I doubt not having the rubber dust seal would affect how the breaks work ( the grease stops dirt getting in there ) its a short cut to a repair only unless you can get a service kit

im here to save cash ;) not waste it, im a budget man any old spares like a C6 or any very expensive cars are welcome :rolleyes:

the comms 2000 is often a conflict and that's new cars for you ( computers ) im working on a way round that but not easy and a break out box is the solution ( technical ) so if you don't know then leave it alone its a brain teaser

hmmm many things pulse but the one I would look at is hazard warning lights or bad earth causing faulty connection like its trying to engage and switching, can you hear any relay clicking? all those fault codes cant be the issue as there are too many and not possible for all of them to be bad so you need to find whats switching off and on

hmmm getting the dash lights to work is a good start now as to why that happened will be a mystery but because it happened it could have triggered a short out and popped up the fuel shut off solenoid which would allow the engine to crank but no fuel so it might be a simple push of that button ( hopefully it will be that simple ) good luck ;)

CAN bus fail and could be water/ice in the system which could be the reason it broke down in the first place, many codes general leads to one main component and the U codes are a give away meaning chassis computer and the immobiliser is part of that ( I noticed one of the codes says the key code was not accepted ) and excess water could cause that so a good dry out would be a good start also you will need to disconnect the negative on the battery for a while and reset the computer as in a few drive cycles for it to relearn

EVAP canister purge valve

no lights on the dash when ignition turned on is the one thing that concerns me and its reminds me of the infamous Audi problem and that's the ignition barrel black box on the rear of the barrel, because its plastic it cracks and things start going strange because of it and your problem is the same and the repair is to replace the black box after an inspection of course this is for the Audi but the principle is the same http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...v%3D2%26hl%3Den

computer doesn't look too bad ;)

no dash lights at all ? could be immobilizer not recognising the chip in the key they have been known to be wiped if remote is operated out of range, not a lot to go on with this as fault codes needed

squib = A small pyrotechnic device that may be used to fire the igniter in a rocket or for some similar purpose. Not to be confused with a detonator that explodes.

its the automatic adjuster where it goes through the bulk head ( it sticks ) but clears when you double the clutch, I had a new clutch fitted because I thought it was that and it was a new cable required and a big lesson to me because of the wasted cost of a new clutch ;)

mine did that but went away when revved so I replaced it, it was more annoying than a faulty sensor and gave no trouble so I put it down to ware and tare that made it noisy

my appols chaps I was out of line there ( bad day ) any data is worth its salt including haynes ;)

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the squib is in the the steering wheel and expensive ( its called the clock spring ) if it goes it effects the radio/horn and others depending on the age of the car. edit* appols again squib connector is under the driver seat http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...6GB297%26sa%3DN http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...6GB297%26sa%3DN

earth wire only if you disconnect the live first it will turn the airbag light on

is the haynes worth it? yes it is but my data is more to the soil ( auto data )