DickieG

Nothing :P

As well as the dash adjustment wheel there are two socket hex bolts on the headlights themselves. One adjusts vertical, the other horozontally. It may be that the bulb is not seated correctly in the headlight. The beam pattern is the same as any other car, i.e. Higher on the N/S then flat towards the O/S.

The top housing on the dash is removed by sliding it towards you. i.e. the back of the car.

If the matrix is leaking enough to require replacement it will cause an acrid smell of anti freeze 5 minutes after start up. You will also have a damp front passenger footwell as this is the lowest route out for any leakages which will also leave a white stain on the heater outlet down there. Bear in mind that dampness in the front passenger footwell on Xantia's can also be due to water getting in via the heater inlet under the screen due to a poorly fitted/cracked plastic shield at the bottom of the screen. The way to tell what liquid you have on a damp carpet, run your hand across it then rub your fingers together. Anti freeze will feel greasy whereas water will feel like..... :) The fact that its misting up when the fan doesn't work at this time of year isn't surprising considering the damp atmosphere. The heater fan may not be working due to it being fed directly from the ignition switch which is a well known weakness on Xantia's as it carries a heavy load without the protection of a relay. Remove the steering column shroud then try wiggling the wires behind the ignition switch. What exactly is the problem with the hydraulic pump? Is it suffering from air entering via its feed pipe from the LHM tank, leakage or belt slippage etc etc. Normally when pumps require replacement its because they do not build up enough pressure to extinguish the 'stop' light. Take a good look at the LHM fluid by dipping a clean white tissue into it, it should be luminous green in colour. Are the LHM filters blocked? Its easy to jump to comclusions and spend lots of money but I'd carry out basic checks first and if necessary seek second opinions. Whereabouts in the country are you, as there are a number of specialists you could atke the car to for advice.

Having owned seven Xantia's (I have two at present) I find that the headlights are perfectly adequate IF correctly adjusted. I will say no more :P

Click onto http://www.aepdirect.com/citroen-part.aspx or http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ to get a new regulator assembly somewhat cheaper than £200.

The MOT test doesn't test the lights for correct alignment, i.e. they could be pointing at the floor, it just tests to ensure they are not blinding others. To that extent I have adjusted the headlights on EVERY car car I have bought (that's quite a few by the way) as the lights invariably point down giving little forward vision on unlit roads. Correct adjustment of headlight alignment is surely one of the most critical safety elements in night driving? To date I'm yet to have a car fail the MOT on headlight alignment, indeed my Activa passed last Sunday having just adjusted the headlights (up) a couple of days prior to the test. Provided you are sensible when adjusting the lights, you will have no problems whatsoever.

Yes with a long allen key down through the small holes on the black plastic panel above the headlights. The holes nearest the centre adjust the height, the outer ones horizontally.

Take a look in the highway code and you will see that there is an exemption from the solid white line rule when overtaking agricultural vehicles :P I do believe you have been well and truely done :P

If it is the crank pulley (a common failure on HDi's) then get it sorted asap because if it fails then the timing belt will slip, which being a diesel will destroy the engine :o

I would imagine the problem is due to a faulty connection, have you tried waggling the ariel whilst listening to the radio? The rear wiper on my Berlingo will very occasionally do one wipe when I unlock the car :wacko: Dealer had no idea/interest when I had the 1st service done :angry:

Have you tried a Citroen approved service centre as in 'non dealer'? Citroen now have a number of fully approved service centres which are normally much cheaper than dealers, look on http://www.citroen.co.uk/dealer_locator/de...alerlocator.asp to find a local one.

The 16V engines are a little more tricky than 8V due to the twin camshafts, which require you to undo the camshaft sprocket bolts to allow the sprocket to move within slots in order to align them with the new cambelt. Until I actually changed the belt on a 16V I couldn't see why on earth there is a need to change the the sproket position but for some reason (which I still can't fathom out) it is necessary. I thought that removing a belt and replacing it with a new one (same make etc) would mean that it just slipped into place but it did not. However that part of the job isn't technically difficult. As far as tensioning the new belt, I've always used the method of fitting the belt, then tensioning it until the belt can just be turned/twisted 90 degrees on its longest run between pulleys, which to date has served me well. As you don't appear to have the camshaft/crankshaft locking tools you can use drills/dowels/bolts to lock the camshafts/crankshaft in place. Having changed a number of cambelts on various cars including different Xantia engines the 16V is not particularly difficult, it just requires a little more thought, so get hold of a Haynes manual which decribes the job reasonably well.

What engine does the car have as some are easier than others.

You surprise me, I find my 1.6 goes picks up much quicker than my old 2.0, no turbo lag with a much lower start to the torque curve. Indeed its so noticeable that even the wife talks about it :D I take it you did get the 92 bhp version :(

The reason for that may well be that the rear drums are out of adjustment. How many clicks does it take to engage the handbrake?

Not personally, as 4 x4 adds weight/drag to the car and I never go offroad, well not intentially :D

The easy way of telling is whether there is an ABS light on the dash when you start the car. An 04 version would have only had ABS fitted in connection with a passengers airbag as part of a 'Safety Pack'.

I obviously don't know what type of Xantia alloy wheel you have but in my experience of Xantia alloys, the wheel bolts are very different, being longer to cope with alloy wheels being thicker and have a washer attached. When alloys were fitted from new, the spare wheel was steel but has special mounting posts welded around the wheel bolt holes to give a flat, rather than tapered mounting.

Deep breath. Remove the steering wheel by removing the airbag via two torx bolts at the back of the wheel, then disconnect the electrical connection to the bag. (many will give horror warnings about the airbag going off unless the battery is disconnected but I've not personally had problems.....yet :angry: ) Remove the steering wheel followed by the steering cowling, then the small cover to the right of the steering column, (screws are underneath by the fuse hatch) and the cover to the left, which reveals the screws to the baseplate of the instrument housing followed by the screws at the top of the instrument housing. Then simply pull the instrument housing from the top and it will lift out, without speedo cable as it is an electrical speedo. Needless to say after this palava most people replace every bulb because you can imagine what happens if you don't :angry:

Are you using 'Holts' brand screen wash? If so that smells like cats **SS or battery acid, absolutely dreadful stuff. When the cars at work were changed over to that a couple of years ago I thought there was a problem with the battery charging system!!

I don't think Citroen ever did a CD player which was compatable with Xantia's other than the multichangers, so whilst you can get the CD player to work, I think you'll have to do without the steering wheel controls. Another way around the problem is to get (I think Sony make one) a CD player for which you can get a special lead which connects up with the steering controls.

The cat is basically the first section of exhaust with a sensor or maybe two attached, so you can DIY.

The button with the wavy line on controls the waveband ie FM/MW etc. The buttons with arrows on are for tuning up/down. When you have found the station you wish to listen to press one of the numbered buttons for a few seconds and it will memorise that station. RDS allows the radio to tune to alternative frequencies for the same station, TA turns on "Traffic announcements" from other radio stations.

Go on give a clue, what engine etc?