wozza

That is the part I was meaning forgot the part number though and was too lazy to go and find that thread. But that thread has loads of information on it I posted KFK's guide in there about what the dealers have to enable to get the headunit working with it.

Well you can buy a normal input cable which is around £17 which is just a standard 3.5mm jack to plug into the headphone socket. The one I said was specifically the iPod control box and USB port so you can use USB sticks etc to play back through the headunit. Not sure how the zens would work as I have an aftermarket headunit and my zen is an old 4+yrs 60gb jukebox xtra. Thing with the zen's is they aren't as popular and creative aren't as good with the software for developers as apple are. Hence next to no support from anyone else for them. Creatives fault they are the same with PC sound cards. Which has held them back by the drivers now being utterly rubbish. I have an after market headunit in mine. You will need a few adaptors to get it to fit. Can spend £100 on adaptors alone getting it sorted depending on headunit you buy as some headunits only support a certain adaptor. I know the one for my headunit is £80 alone for steering controls. So I decided not to bother with it. Connects2 do a range of adaptors though. will also need an aerial adaptor. And a quadlock to ISO converter. Not a simple job in most modern cars swapping radios around the adaptors can cost more than some of the cheaper headunits.

You can buy an input for the standard system should you wish to hook an iPod or similar up. Full iPod hookup is around £100 but will charge the iPod and give full control of it from the steering wheel. You could change the head unit and depending on which model you purchase depends if you can use the steering controls. LCD will still work as it does now minus track information but the new head unit will display all that anyway. The standard screen will still display mpg info etc. If you want to upgrade speakers they are 6.5" up front and 5" in the rear.

2 bucket method lambswool mitt and a miracle drier to patt it down with after wards. Followed by a a coat of glaze and wax. Looks great after it is done. Should do as well after I spent days on it 2 months ago machine polishing the bugger.

Insurance depends on the company. The company who provides cheaper insurance to the C4 club charges no extra for it. And it can affect warranty but they generally have to know it is there in the first place. Most of the people who sell them say that it should be rather difficult to tell if it has been done. How true that is I have no idea though. For the filter however I would just send K&N UK an email and see what they can do.

Did a search for you and it looks like non of the major companies make a filter for the 2.7HDI yet. The other option is going for something like the BMC CDA it will replace the standard air box with an induction kit type system but it is sealed in a carbon fibre housing. Works much the same but isn't a drop in part but they are universal. But more expensive as well. Other option would be to try and email companies like K&N, Pipercross, ITG to see if they would like to try and prototype a system on your car. That way you will get the filter and normally it is free since you get the first system. However if you are after a bit of extra grunt a good few companies offer remaps for the 2.7 HDI which would up power and torque by around 30bhp / 50ft lbs while ironing out flat spots etc. Loads of options just depends what you want to do. Get in touch with some companies and ask them.

To be fair your first reply was rather troll like. He replied the same way you posed the question. Pose your questions better and you might not get such an aggravated response. It certainly looks like your first response was attempting to bait someone into an argument. Its like me saying why on earth do you drive a C1 when you could buy a 1.6 HDI C4 get similar MPG pay the same in tax and have a better, larger, more comfortable and refined car? People do not like being told what they should or should not own. Or having to give an argument of why they purchased it in the first place. So how about we all be civil now.

Least they are willing to take up the costs. Which is a result. There were definitely problems with the clutches on a number of the cars though. Too many of us on here for it to be purely down to us. Clutches just don't fail with 8000 miles on them.

It is not uncommon for the clutches in the 1.6 to go early on. Mine went at 8000 miles. Think there was someone else on here a while ago who never even made it to 5000. And quite a few with less than 10k who had them replaced. All done under warranty. It was somewhat more common on the earlier cars. 04/05 but the newer ones I have seen no issues with. But the fact is this is something that has happened before and a good few times. Also affected some of the 2.0's and 1.4's as well. But the 1.6 petrol is the most common to go. Getting them to replace it however might be a bit of a struggle. But if you can get together a few other forum posts on here about the clutches then it might help if you print them off and prove it is not as rare as it sounds.

Different specs can change the ratings. I know that the C4 went up on a couple models due to adding more kit as standard thus making the car heavier and increasing emissions. The £30 a year versus nil I don't think anyone will really care that much. If you live in London it means paying the congestion charge...which they do already. If you live elsewhere I really don't think £30 extra a year to run a generally larger and more powerful car is really that hard to come by. It is the poor buggers who have automatics that you have to feel for who are going to get stung in the upper bands driving normal cars. A 2.0 Auto Mondeo falls in the highest band. These taxes are rubbish though I mean we pay this extra money out but what does that actually go towards? And these cars that come in the highest band that only drive 3000 miles a year surely put out less emissions than a car that is driven everyday and clocks up 30,000 miles a year but in a lower emissions band. It is a bad way to measure something like this. And I thought the whole idea of the road tax was that it was suppose to keep our roads in good condition...Don't know about you but I would say they are rather pot hole ridden at the moment.

There are a few people with them fitted on the C4owners.org website best trying over there. The C4 section on here isn't quite as busy as it used to be since 90% of the people moved to the owners club website. Lots more to be found on there as well with guides on just about everything. As well as the ability to receive discounts on parts from certain companies including induction kits etc.

They are all identical bar internals. The 106 gti, saxo VTS and C2 VTS are the same car with different cams and mapping i Believe the only way you can tell is that they rev past 7000rpm compared to the 6500rpm of ours. The engine is virtually identical though. Anything that will fit the C2 / 206 etc will go in the C4 it just might be a bit different in location due to the C4 bay not being identical. But parts should be the same. Other people have put 206 parts on the C4 so don't worry about it.

Nothing really breaks. They are fairly reliable cars to be honest. The EGS box is also smooth if you drive it properly. Like a manual it requires you come off the gas when changing gear to get a smoother gearchange. Most people who review them don't do this and then moan about the gearchange. What they forget is it is actually a manual gearbox with an actuator for the clutch no torque converter like a regular automatic has. Hence different driving style needed. Check out the http://c4owners.org/news.php website though lots more owners over there and various threads can be found detailing the issues you are likely to get.

Yes the 1.6 engine is the same as in the C2 / C3 and saxo, 106, 206, 307. Quite a common engine and lots of parts are available but do not expect much in the way of power gains. It may even feel like the car is more sluggish with it fitted due to pulling in more hot air from under the bonnet.

£500!!! Talk about rip off I got my side strips done for £50 I don't see how doing the door handles and mirror can be another £450! Try looking at other bodyshops as prices can vary massively.

Well one of the techs I know said it should work. So guess someone has to be the first to try it. Remember you may possibly need to get the dealer to configure the stereo to use a CD changer. And If you have a changer fitted chances are it will have to replace the current changer.

You know there are quite a few cars in the citroen line up which have similar running costs? The 1.6 HDI C4 the EGS version is £35 a year to tax. Will do 50+ MPG and is more comfortable and insurance depending on your age is not going to be that much different. Just depends if you want a little car or something a bit bigger with not much different running costs. But a slightly higher purchase price. Have a look at other cars as lots of marques now offer cheap to run cars which are bigger and more comfortable with hardly any difference cost wise. The Renault Megane and a couple of the Fords are similar too.

Are you talking about leaving the remote cable disconnected? If so that won't work the remote cable is there to turn the amp on. Without it the amp won't work. And for your ground connection drill a small hole into the boot floor and sand away some of the paint. As that can cause the amp to be a bit funny if it is not correctly ground.

I guess when you learnt to drive you weren't told 1st - 10mph 2nd - 20mph 3rd- 30mph 4th - 40mph and 5 th -50 for anything after that? If you have an extra gear adjust as some mean 3rd at 20 depending on ratios. Basically no need to take anything about 3500rpm if you do on normal driving you are in the wrong gear. 2500 rpm is about the best time to change gear. Usually. MY mothers car actually has a section in the RPM gauge marked as Economy so you keep within that range I still change gear myself even in an auto and I get better MPG than the computer can.

No as Economy mode will kick in way before there is time to drain the battery depending on how you wire it.

Rather take the diesel lump and get it remapped more power than the petrol then. Better Fuel economy more torque. Not the type of car you thrash down country lanes so the diesel seems a better alternative.

That the sbarro C1? They have made some great cars in the past. The C2, C4 and Picasso also look brilliant. The C2 they made is just bonkers. 3.0 V6 in it.

Depends on the engine really but between 12.8 and 9.6 seconds 0-60 fastest one is the 2.7 HDI V6. Not meant to be a fast car though meant to be a comfortable cruiser.

V power is going to make no difference other than a bigger dent in your wallet on that engine. Just put a tank or 2 in every so often to clean it out and then use 95 the rest of the time. Not like the engine is mapped to take advantage of the 99ron fuel. Not to mention turbo charged impreza's etc only normally about 7bhp more using it.

Phonos are easy round the back of the dash take lower section of the dash off to get some room pull the carpet back behind the pedals and run it behind there and then into the trim at the side of the door sill. Power cable there should could be a hole just behind the accelerator assembly with a few more cables coming through as well you can put it through there.