Johndouglas

Hello & welcome to the forum. As well as this forum, you may also be interested in joining our sister forum at http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/forum/9-technical-section-for-mk1-mk2/

Yes - not bad for 120 miles around town. Over a week you've had 7 cold starts at least, and that's when fuel consumption is at its worst. Best method to calculate overall fuel consumption is to top the tank, drive for a few hundred miles, then top up again - then do the sums.

That's right! They shoot out when the pump works.

Not sure whether or not the fuel filter fitted to a 2009 engine is the same as the 2005 model. If it is, that's it at top right of my picture. First, make sure you have the correct cartridge to replace the old one - with a new rubber sealing washer. On the top of the filter there are two fuel lines to disconnect. Press down the white tabs and pull the connectors off. Make sure dirt isn't allowed to contaminate them. Next remove the electrical connector by raising the tab slightly. Before removing the lid, pack some old rags below the filter bowl to catch spillage. I also find it better to have a bowl or an old ice cream box to pop the dripping cartridge in and save dripping fuel over the engine. You'll need a close fitting socket to fit on the hex of the filter top, Spin it off and replace the sealing washer. Remove the old cartridge and empty the bowl. (There may be water in the bottom. To do that I use a cook's basting syringe. Fit the new cartridge and replace the lid. Connect the fuel lines and electric plug. If you have a primer bulb use it to refill the filter bowl. Otherwise use the starter. Check for leakage http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Handprimer002.jpg[/url]

Not with my 2005 model they didn't. Providing the headlights were switched on, the washers worked on every pull of the stalk. The headlamp washer works off its own reservoir with its own electrical connection. Check for 12volts at the connector when the stalk is moved. If you have 12volts then suspect the pump. The lamp washer is the blue one on the right. As you see, you need to drop the bumper to access it. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1020093.jpg[/url]

Fuel filter should be changed every 20000miles or if in arduous conditions every 12500 miles. Since I do my own maintenance I couldn't say whether or not its part of a normal service or needs to be specified. For myself I change mine every year. Obviously, the more dirt there is in the filter, the less space there is for fuel to get through.

Yes! I read this on another forum. Well worth while noting:- A guy at my firm has a BMW 3 series, which he's had for 4 years. He never used the aircon at all saying that it uses extra fuel and its not needed. He recently decided he fancied a change of car and decided to get the BM fully serviced with the record book up to date. He had a fair few potential buyers look over the car, but they all tried the aircon......and found it didn't work. He went to get it regassed as it only costs about £40. Well he had the shock of his life when the aircon specialist he went to told him that the system was knackered and would cost £1000+ to reinstate due to all the seals drying out and letting moisture in, which had in turn knackered the compressor, condenser and most of the other main components. He was told that a proper repair figure could be given once they had the system out of the car for closer inspection. But the last BM they had in was closer to £1500 to reinstate as the owner of that one had done the same and hadn't ran the aircon in years either. The specialist even said the best thing is run the aircon system in auto all the time, after all for the minuscule amount of fuel it uses, its years and years before you use £1000+ worth of fuel running the system in auto. So now he's faced with a dilemma, spend the money and get the aircon fixed, or take the cost off the asking price of the car. Which would leave him with not a lot as the same spec cars as his and year is going for not much more than the repair costs. He even tried trading it in, but the places he's been have noticed the aircon not working and have only offered him a few hundred quid for the car as they would have to get it working to sell on. He's as sick as a parrot because the car he thought he could sell for roughly £2,000-£2,500 is now only worth about £500. So the few quid he's saved in fuel has cost him more.

I've read reports about the use of this stuff when that particular fault code has come up. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_1001810_langId_-1_categoryId_255221 It may be worth a try for a few days, then delete the code again and maybe it won't return. Shop around - ebay? - It can be found cheaper than at Halfords.

How long since you had a fuel filter change?

Sorry for the confusion. I'd momentarily forgotten you wanted to remove the battery for charging. The instructions I gave you were for when you needed to reset the BSI. So do as Steve suggested. Or just remove the battery for charging. But having refitted it, you may need to do the reset to get everything working correctly.

The "tourer" description wasn't used until the Mk3 models came along in 2008. Before that date they were only listed in the brochures as Estates. From the brochure of 2005 the spec sheets give the bhp of the 2.2 as 136, and the 2ltr engine as 138. Economy figures for the two engines in the urban cycle are 36mpg for the 2ltr and 28.8mpg for the 2.2. The combined figures are 47mpg and 39.8mpg...................................As far as the 2ltr engine is concerned, the figures quoted are fairly close to what I got with my own car. It doesn't say so in the brochure but fuel consumption may be slightly more in cars with auto boxes.

There's a theory that if there's crud in the brake callipers when you wind the pistons back in, the crud may find its way into the ABS. So by opening the bleed nipple, the fluid is displaced rather than being forced back up the line.

But you're with the car for the few minutes the window is open...... :rolleyes:

To get Citroen to swop windows would be very expensive. Have a look at this website. There are specialist tinters all over the country. .......... PS. I've edited your post. http://www.ultimatetinting.co.uk/index.asp

In this day and age I would very nervous about modifying my vehicle from it's original description. Already the popular practice of removing a dpf is an MOT failure. In the not too distant future, when your vehicle goes for MOT the centre's machine will be plugged in and your car's statistics compared with a DVLA database. See this topic - http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21211-hdi-2-or-22-plus-remap/?do=findComment&comment=77943

Can't help you with that one. Probably Steve (Coastline) will know. He may be a long later. I'm fairly sure that any new injectors need to be coded to the ECU.

Hello & welcome to the forum.

Hello & welcome to the forum.

My kit isn't quite so sophisticated. No distance readout - just a beep when selecting reverse, then an increasingly rapid beep as an obstruction is approached. Mine is ebay item 251244495581

Try GSF or Eurocarparts where you order by entering your reg. number. Also their prices will be just as good as those on ebay.

Have you considered getting one of the mobile companies that remove injectors with hydraulic pullers. Google "Injector removal" for your area. You might find some one locally.

Yes! Likewise on the C5 X7 Tourer with the reverse lights in the tailgate. Fortunately I was also wiring for a towbar so it was worth the fiddling. In my case, drilling the bumper and fitting the wiring was a doddle.

Hello & welcome to the forum. If you haven't already done so, you should join our sister forum at http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/forum/63-citroen-picasso/

I know nothing about C3's but normally to bleed, the nipple loosens about 1/2 a turn, then a plastic tube is pushed onto the nipple so that the fluid is pumped through into a jar

Find an empty socket in the fuse box that's live constantly. I've just needed to do the opposite on my daughter's Xsara. We need an ignition controlled 12volt socket.