Johndouglas

Hello & welcome to the forum. If you go to http://www.service.citroen.com and register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Enter your car's VIN and you'll find most of the recent handbooks together with a host of other useful information.

Congratulations! Don't let a difficult first time put you off. Second and future times will be easier as you learn from previous experiences, but yes - there's not much room to work in a transverse engine bay.

By not having the correct tyres on your car you are giving your insurer a loop hole to refuse a claim on your policy. Lower spec Xantias did run on 175/70s; 185/65s and 195/55s but if the tyre websites quote 205/60 tyres you may be sure that it's correct. Also the speed ratings for the larger tyres will be different to your present ones. The 205s are the ones I would go for. During the Xantia's lifetime it's had several different engines fitted from 1.9 XUDs without a turbo, through 1.9XUDTD; 2.1 DW12 TD, up to the last edition with the 2ltr HDI. Every model with a different spec tyre.

Cam sprocket timing hole is at 4 oclock approx using an 8mm bolt. The pump sprocket is at 12 - 1 o'clock with a 6mm rod. Both should line up after a 6mm rod has been popped into the flywheel hole at TDC. Both sprockets should have elongated holes for adjustment. I don't have a DW8 picture but here's a picture of a TUD engine which is same layout as DW8 and is timed the same way. Both sprockets have slotted holes - although the bolt heads cover the slots. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Belt005.jpg[/url]

Another problem solved. Well done.

43mpg average is more or less what I get on mine. The theoretical figure on what mileage you can do with your remaining fuel is a 'guesstimate' based on your recent driving style. For instance, if you are driving gently on motorway and down hill, it will be high and updating every few minutes. I find that if I drive between 65 & 70 in 6th gear on a motorway I can achieve a reading of around 65mpg, but it's when the intermediate gears are used with a few accelerations that the average begins to tumble. It's when towing my van that I find the greatest difference between my present car and my previous Mk2. On the Mk2 28mpg was the norm but with the X7 it's never less than 30mpg and if I drop the speed just slightly it rises to 33mpg.

What system are you on?

Try: - whilst holding down the button, turn on the ignition to the second position. See if it counts down.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune but can you be a bit more precise about the leak. Where it was from and what fluid it was. Up to 2012 Citroen produced 2,855,000 C4s worldwide and I haven't heard too many reports of them catching fire. We need to know more about the details.

It seems odd that the vacuum pump is giving problems so soon after changing the cambelt. Were it mine I'd be taking off the front cover and checking the sprockets and timing fixtures.

On the DW engines the belt fitting should be started on the crank pulley then anti clockwise over the idler, the fuel pump, the camwheel, followed by water pump and finally the tensioner. Before fitting the belt the retaining bolts in the sprockets should be loose enough to allow the sprockets to move within the slots with the starting point being with the sprockets turned fully anti-clockwise. After tensioning the belt, the sprockets should be checked to see that the securing bolts are not at the ends of their slots. If they are, the belt fitting should be done again. Even if they are in a correct position, the bolts should be loosened and then the belt's tension checked again before finally tightening the six bolts.

After you'd fitted the belt, did you turn the engine over a couple of times then refit the timing pins? If you slide a 6mm rod into the flywheel so that it's at TDC, you should then be able to screw an 8mm bolt through the camshaft sprocket and also a 6mm rod into the head through the pump sprocket. If you can fit all three, then the timing is correct.

Those two plugs look as though they are in castings whereas your sump pan will be pressed steel

Can you post a picture of them

Is there an undertray fitted on your car - it will be a semi-flexible plastic tray clipped onto the inner wing panels - but if not, you'll be able to see the ground when looking down on the engine. There's only one engine drain plug and that is on the bottom of the sump towards the rear. It may have a hexagon head or a round plug with an inset for an 8mm hex bit. When draining the sump it helps to have the front wheels raised slightly. The only other drain is for the final drive. The level plug is on the end of the gearbox - the slightly larger bolt at 4 o'clock (approx.)

Some Xantias have a drain plug in the bottom left hand corner of the radiator. Use that but if there isn't one, remove the bottom hose. It'll help to open the bleed caps on the hose close to the matrix and on the thermostat housing. The only other drain plug is on the back of the cylinder block. Unless it's opened, the block won't empty completely but during the years I owned XUDs I never bothered, instead giving the system a flush through before adding new antifreeze.

Having topped up the Eolys tank, you need to reset the counter using a Lexia.

My daughter's '02 Xsara was running at full speed a couple of years ago. I changed the resistor pack which cured it but within two weeks the motor stopped altogether. I got a new motor unit from ECP and it's been fine since then.

To remove the BSI you'll need to remove the glove box then pull all the multiplugs. One repairer of BSI's that do mail-order repairs is http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=citroen_bsi_body_control_failure On their website they give this advice:- Before sending the unit try the BSI Reset procedure as this may cure your faults: Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds. (** See my note below) Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.).Switch on the side lights through the driver's window. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds. Remove key open & close door test central locking system. Start the engine and complete the system's check. Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items. ** After you have disconnected the battery, I would remove it and charge it off the car overnight before continuing.

With the engine running, are you getting around 14 volts on the battery terminals? Don't worry too much about economy mode. Most Citroens go into it very shortly after the engine is switched off - anything from a few minutes up to half an hour - depending on the state of the battery. Regarding getting a BSI from a breaker. Your BSI is coded to your vehicle and one from a breaker is no good unless you also get the matching transponder, immobiliser keys & the engine's ECU. Also your radio would need to be re coded. A better option - if yours is faulty, is to send it for repair

Is your window completely closed? Anything stopping it from completely closing? Anything trapped in the door seal or damage to it?

Right on!

You probably know that these 1.6HDI engines have a weakness in the turbo, but the good news is that they are ok if the oil and filter changes are meticulously carried out on the engine at or before the recommended interval.

It doesn't look as though the screen will turn off - short of removing a fuse. It seems that the closest you can get to off is to release the SD card to get rid of the map and turn the radio volume to zero. I'm still trying to find an option to use a male voice for directions and an option to use metric GPS input rather than degrees, mins&secs.

It's their idea to help you to drive in the most economical way. Of course, when the caravan is hitched on, it's advice is hopelessly incorrect.