Johndouglas

I believe the capacity of your system is 5.6 ltrs and they usually reckon to use a 50/50 mix. These days it's doubtful that your radiator has a drain plug so you'll have to remove the bottom hose. Also there may be a drain on the back of the engine.

To be sure, you need a Lexia session on your engine at the dealer's. That will pin-point the trouble. However I'll leave it to you to decide whether your trouble is similar to my daughter's Xsara. They both share the same engines. Often when she was driving the warning bleep would sound, the stop light would come on and the temperature gauge would go to the far end of the scale. After a few minutes all would be normal again. By changing the temperature sender in the engine it put it right.

It's even funnier when they put the rear wheels on the rollers to test the handbrake. :blink:

To answer your first paragraph - Yes there are several changes that can be made to the factory settings and they are all done through the Lexia - the diagnostic machine used by the dealers. And do you have xenon lights. Have you got headlamp washers? Cars fitted with xenons have them. If you look at the headlamp casing under the bonnet there will be a label clearly marked "xenon" together with a warning symbol. And no - it's not possible to fit a filament bulb in place of HID.

After a run check that the hubs are not hot. Maybe the brakes are dragging.

There are two timing pins to insert. One goes in the back of the flywheel and the other goes into the camshaft. The hole in the pulley lines up with a hole in the head at about 2 o'clock. On the Xsara/Saxo diesel engines the flywheel takes a 6mm angled rod and the cam pully takes a 8mm bolt - sorry don't know about the 1.4

I would check the timing. Make sure that the cam pulley timing hole lines up with the flywheel hole. It's not unknown for the cambelt to jump a tooth when the bottom pulley lets go. The pump doesn't need timing. Could be the reason for tappet to break.

Service.citroen.com

I believe you need a Lexia to let the ECU know there isn't a filter there.

Here you go:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/C1frontwing.jpg The bolt numbered 80 is the wing bolts. Looks to be four of them.

Looking at Citroen's parts diagrams, it looks as though the wing is bolted on. But to reach some of the bolts, maybe the door will have to come off. As regards the headlamp brackets, they are usually part of the headlamp casing. I've managed a repair in the past by using strong glue, reinforced with a thin piece of alloy sheet.

According to Citroen.service electric seats and manual seats each have their own electric harness.

Changing a head gasket isn't a service requirement. It's just a job that needs doing as and when it fails. If you find that you are constantly having to top up the coolant reservoir and you haven't got a leaking rad or hose, then you might have a failed head gasket. But on a different job - what does your service record say about renewal of the cambelt. By the mileage of your car, it's a job that should have been done. If it's not mentioned in your service record, you would be well advised to consider having it done.

Your's is an XUD which is an Indirect injection engine. It has a pre-combustion chamber in the cylinder head where the tips of the injectors and glowplugs are. Apart from the valves the underside of the cylinder head is flat.

Look for a matching one on ebay then swop over the bits you need.

I think they've given you the wrong type. I've got old glowplugs kicking around in the garage and most of them are 24mm long. All out of past BX and Xantia XUD's - the same engine as yours. A glowplug is hottest at the tip and a 24mm plug just reaches into the jet from the injector. A longer one will go through it and out the otherside. I would go back to the shop and get them to check the number again.

Before starting take off the spray covers otherwise they'll break. Undo: Three torx bolts underneath. Two screws each side in the wheel arch. Three torx bolts under the bonnet. Pull the bumper slightly forward then pull outwards each side near to the headlamps. Helps if you have some help because there are connectors to undo before removing.

Have a word with Coastline.

I've never had my Saxo driveshafts out but usually there's an oil seal knocked into the gearbox for each shaft. They're a steel outer with a spring-loaded rubber lip to sit around the shaft. At less than a fiver, they are worth replacing whenever the shafts are removed.

Don't know about that. According to Haynes it says turn anti-clockwise. You're right about the LEDs. I've put them on my C5.

They're held on by two plastic lips moulded into the cover. Put a small screwdriver under the corner and prise it off. To replace, press it back into place.

The advice you've been given is correct as a first measure to try. I've never heard of the French stuff mentioned, but I regularly use Millers Diesel additive in all of our vehicles. Also Diesel Redex is very good, but a MOT tester guy I know uses Fortes Diesel Conditioner at his garage. Use about twice the recommended dose.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-C2-2003-2008-Standard-Front-Wing-/110598432392?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c02e2688 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-C2-2003-2008-BONNET-NEW-/160492625803?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255e1b1f8b Or try some scrappers.

After I'd been using my other car for three or four weeks I found the C5's power steering had stopped working altogether. I'd had to jump-start the C5 but when I drove it, it was with heavy steering. I did a reset by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes. After that, all was well.

A good result and a happy ending for you.