Johndouglas

When you switch on can you hear the pump in the tank?

There's a guy on the Citroen Xsara website, http://www.cxoc.net/ who makes and fits solid aluminium crankshaft pulleys for about 90 quid. See them here:- http://www.cxoc.net/index.php?topic=8409.15

I too have seen the note on Halfords screen about not attempting to do lights on Xsara's. During the past year I've done both side and headlights on our Xsara. The headlights can be done from under the bonnet, but the side lights require the bumper to be removed. And then, to get to the last of the three headlight bolts, you'll need to take off the cross member. Here's a piccy:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1020572a.jpg PS: Renew both sidelight bulbs :rolleyes:

My C5 has done 55000 miles (88000Kms) and so far all I've done is to replace the rear pads. Discs are both OK. I keep checking the fronts, but they are no way near needing pads. My daughter put her Xsara in for dealer servicing at 12500 miles (for warranty purposes). They told her to bring it back at 15000 miles for a brake check. By then I'd taken over the maintenance of it so it didn't go back. I did in fact put on new discs and pads at 35000 miles. PS. Regarding prices for spares in Aussie-land, it might pay you to consider ordering from UK and paying the carriage. These are two of the companies we use:- http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ http://www.eurocarparts.com

My C5 did something similar a few weeks ago. It wouldn't unlock on the plip. So I tried this - and it worked:- Turn on the ignition. Remove battery positive lead. Turn off ignition. Touch positive lead to earth. Reconnect positive lead and switch on ignition for a couple of minutes. Start the engine and leave to tick over for a while. You'll need to reset your clock.

While the weather was still good I thought I'd put a new cambelt on the Pug 306. Not before time since it's eleven years old and still on the original belt. Our Pug is fitted with the last of the XUD9 engines so it has the spring loaded tensioner. Having got the engine nice and hot I had trouble getting the crankshaft bolt undone. A rattle gun wouldn't shift it so I had to resort to using a socket on the bolt with a long tommybar braced against the driveshaft and giving a quick burst on the starter. That shifted it first go. Although they are all similar engines, there seems to be less room between the wing and the belt covers on the 306 than there is on BX or 205s. Also it has some very inaccessable cover bolts. With a 6mm rod in the flywheel and three 8mm bolts in the cam and pump sprockets, timing can't be lost in fitting the new belt. Itss a low mileage engine so I didn't replace the water pump and tensioner pulley. To complete the job I fitted a new auxilliary belt. The old cambelt looked good for 11 years old but the other belt looked close to its life's end. It's been a long day of seven hours work but worth it for an outlay of £15.50.

I saw an auction on ebay for a cambelt tension gauge in USA. I decided to try for it and finally got it for 30 USD - about 18 quid. Here it is in use on our Saxo. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Belt006.jpg

Maybe that one benefit have having three girls. They just leave you to get on with looking after their cars.

Not usually any warning. They just suddenly let go. Occasionally if something has started an edge to fray, you might hear a clicking noise. Best to replace a bit before the recommended mileage. Also consider changing water pump and pulleys and auxiliary belt at the same time.

And I find it very helpful to put a double quantity of diesel Redex or Millers Sp[ort 4 in the tank a few days before the test.

The one at the front releases pressure on them all. Get the old sphere moving before you release the pressure. Just a 1/4 turn. It also helps to put a plastic bag over the sphere as you unscrew it. Saves getting drenched with LHM.

I bought one new in 1991 - A BX-TZDturbo Estate. A lovely car with the most comfortable seats I've ever sat on. Knocked up 110K miles in 8 years then sold it on to a guy on the old Andyspares forum. Wish they still made them. Lovely and simple - till the octupus leaked!

To confuse you even more, my Saxo manual says Dexron type ATF

What part do you want to replace? The cover just clips on, although they fall off easily. I've tied mine in place with a small zip tie. To do anything else on the washers, then yes, I would think the bumper needs to be taken off. If you do remove it, if I were you I'd replace the side light bulbs at the same time.

If you take the old one to compare, can't see where you can go wrong.

Drop links. Haynes call them connecting links/

If the fuse is OK then you'll need to check the switch. Probably your C8 is the same as the C5. To get at the switch the air cleaner box and trunking has to be moved.

Have you checked the fuse? Could be a 10amp fuse No 1 in the engine fuse box.

Just shows how Haynes manuals have changed over the years. In the Citroen BX manual published in 1989, instructions for changing the rear arm bearings runs into three pages of words and exploded diagrams. The BX manual mentions special Citroen tools but then goes on to describe other makeshift devices. that can be used. It seems there's not a lot of difference, apart from ABS, between BX, Xantia and C5 rear suspensions. During the life time of the old Anyspares forum several guys replaced rear arm bearings on Xantias. For a general rundown on the job, have a look at this website:- http://bxclub.co.uk/diy/armbearings/

Your key has a chip in it. When you put the key in the ignition lock, a reader coil recognises the key chip and deactivates the immobilizer. If it sometimes fails to work, you have a 'dodgy' connection.

You have! You should have a 21/5 double filament bulb in the foglight/tail light and a single 21w bulb in the brake light. That's funny French for you!

I'm not familiar with 13 pin wiring but don't know if this helps:- Connect to Socket terminal No. Yellow See relay details 1 (LH Flasher) Blue Fog Lamp 2 White Vehicle Earth 3 Green See relay details 4 (RH Flasher) Brown R.H. Sidelamp 5 Red Stoplamps 6 Black L.H. Sidelamp 7 Yellow Reverse 8 Green Continuous power 9 Red Ign. switched power 10 Black Earth for pin 10 11 None 12 White Earth for pin 9 13

Go to the cash point and withdraw about £120 :unsure: - then it's off to a Citroen dealer with your code cards and he will get another key and programme it to your car. Don't be tempted to buy a 'look-alike' off ebay to try. They don't work!

The ZX is like the Pug 306 in many ways. If the washer system is the same, it's off with the driver's side wheel and the wheel arch liner off. You may even find that the filler neck screw out of the washer bottle, although you can remove the pump without removing the bottle.

Autodata suggest cambelt should be changed at 80K but add that Citroen put it at 100K unless the car is used at 'extreme' conditions. Best advice would be to get it changed now - together with water pump and pulleys. Might also be advisable to change the auxilary belt at the same time.