Johndouglas

I've had the pleasure in the past of replacing an octopus - but I thought they were confined to BX's. This is a picture of one:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/octocat.jpg

The sensor is along the bottom edge of the n/s mirror. There should be a couple of thin wires attached.

There are no bolts holding the battery. Give the hexagon a quarter turn anticlockwise and the plate beneath will slide forward, away from the lip at the bottom of the battery. If the cam hasn't been released for awhile, maybe a large screwdriver between the battery and the slider will help.

Have mine - I never use them ;) But seriously, they look as though they are part of the seat so difficult to retro-fit. Maybe you can pick up Exclusive seats from a breaker.

You'll need to remove the cover on the driver's side and easier on the n/s if you lift out the battery. The two large rubber bungs are the head and dipped beams and the one at the top with the finger grip is the trafficator. The small bung is the sidelamp. Prise it out and there's a clip holding the bulb.

If you've removed the cover the side light holder twists anticlockwise then pulls out. The bulb is a push fit in the bulb holder.

Previous hydraulic Citroens had a pump driven by the engine so before the suspension would rise the engine needed to be running. Hydraulic pumps on the C5 are electronic so the car finds its correct level as soon as the doors are unlocked. You may have noticed that even if you've altered the suspension height, if you drive away the selected height is cancelled and the car assumes its correct height.

Sorry I misunderstood you. I thought you had the end of the cable hanging loose. The cable should be clipped under the car. Usually there's a metal clip holding the cable to the trailing arm and another two plastic clips holding it to the underside of the tank.

I disagree - the sensors do more than "measure mileage". There are two which measure temperature and another two which measure pressure - both before and after the particle filter. So if there's a method of getting the two pressure sensors to fool the management system into thinking that the particle filter is there, then by all means Scouser should take your advice and dump his filter. When he's done it I hope he comes back and tells us how his car is running.

I'm presuming you have drum brakes on the rear. There isn't a hope that it will pass the MOT in that condition. When the back wheels are put on the rollers and the handbrake applied, the right hand gauge won't register anything. Both pointers have to be reasonably close to registering the same figure for a pass. Either the cable has snapped or the end has become detached from the trailing shoe. You'll need to remove the brake drum to investigate.

You're a brave fellow if you do remove it. Goodness knows what the engine will do then. The sensors connected before and aft of the filter tells the computer controlling the engine management what to do. If you ignore the warnings displayed on the panel, eventually the engine management will ensure that the engine won't rev. You'll be able to creep along at a few miles per hour. What's the level in the eolys tank? Have you had the car from new - do you know for sure that the mileage is correct? Certainly the warnings shouldn't appear at 40000 miles.

If you fitted spheres from GSF only six months ago I would say that your problem lies elsewhere. I've used their spheres on previous Xantia and as long ago as when I had a BX and have found them to be reliable and long-lived.

This might help:- http://toolstoday.co.uk/shop.php?PHPSESSID...;search_all.y=5

If you mean the two little 6mm machine screws with the cross heads - they don't need to be tightened at all. They only hold the disc in place after any gunge has been cleaned off the mating faces. The wheel bolts hold it all together.

Try moving the suspension from low to high a few times.

Have a look at F3 in the underbonnet fuse box.

As Dan says, you can rule out the glowplugs. On HDi's, because the injection pressure is so high, no pre-heating is required when starting the engine at temperatures above 0 degrees C. My bet is on fuel - and start with the lift pump.

Try F10 at the back of the glovebox.

The thermostat begins to open when the temperature reaches 89C. It should be fully open at 99C. The fan will cut in after it's idled for a while and after reaching working temperature.

Didn't someone on here refer to it a few weeks ago as Built-in systems interface?

If your 1.6HDi is between 2000 and 04, you should be using a good quality semisynthetic 10W/40 or 15W/40 and the can should be marked API SJ/A3-96. You'll need 3.5ltrs. to change it.

Might be your fuel lift pump in the tank isn't working.

I would get the wheels and new front tyres rebalanced. I don't think that new discs and pads would cause wobble when accelerating.

But surely it isn't 'on' until it is pushed fully in.

Since plastic dipsticks were introduced I've heard of it happening quite a few times. What was wrong with the thin steel ones?