Johndouglas

Before starting work have a new hub cap and a new nut. The nut is peened into a groove which needs to be knocked out. You'll need a 32mm socket and some massive leverage to undo the nut. Under the nut is a thrustwasher. The drum and hub bearing should pull away from the stub axle. If the bearing is tight, a puller can be used. If you can't get the nut undone, maybe a local garage would loosen it for you.

My C5 estate's are doing awful. It's just on 40000 from new and the second set are just about worn out. When I got news ones I had the tracking checked and it was OK. Previous Xantias and BX have done much better. The Xantia's fronts replaced at 35000.

Maybe the fuel lift pump in the tank is not working. If so, I've heard that a thump on the underside of the fuel tank can jolt it into action.

75000 miles

Which engine would that be?

Get it changed pronto. When I had a Xantia my front anti-sink developed a slight leak. Suddenly it dropped all the LHM. Unfortunately I was in Spain and had to be flat-bedded for 40miles. To be on the safe side I changed the rear one when I got home. It's fairly easy to do. Have a split ring spanner to undo the unions and change over the unit. To do the front you need access from underneath and also the battery out. I don't think there's an overhaul kit for them.

For your Xantia to be at the correct 'normal' height measurements are these:- Front - from the underside of the subframe to the ground - 156+7/-7mm. Rear - from the chasis pad above the sphere to the ground 420+7/-7mm. A rough guide at the rear - the highest point of the wheel arch should just about be in line with the tread of the tyre.

It should level up as soon as the doors are unlocked. When the engine starts it's already at 'normal' height. That's how it is with mine.

The wirring noise could be the fans operating. How often do you need to top up the coolant?

Put some silicone polish in there.

From what I've heard, warranties are fairly worthless when it comes to covering clutches unless the fault happens in the first year.

Neither of the two faults would be picked up on MOT. If the brakes stop each wheel and they're balanced across the axle, it's a pass. Unbalanced wheels also wouldn't be picked up - unless the imbalance was caused by a fault in the tread or walls. You could try changing the wheels front to back and see if that improves the drive. Note that some tyres are designed to drive in only one direction.

If your pump has two levers on the top of it with the fast idle cable nearer to the front of the car then you have a Lucas pump. If the fast idle cable is on the engine side of the pump then it's likely you have a Bosch. Lucas seals don't last long in the presence of vegetable oil. Whether or not 100% bio will be the same, I don't know.

The brakes on my C5 - mainly the ones on the rear - squealed. I removed the pads and since they were fairly well worn, replaced them. No more squeal.

I recently got 25feet of 3/16 copper tubing for around 9quid + some unions from:- http://www.brake-pipe.co.uk/pipe.html

As I started to read I immediately thought of lift pump. But you say that's been replaced. If you're sure that it's not intermittent, I would next be checking fuel line connections around the filter housing.

Depends what you want to tow. Safety recommendations says that the trailer weight should be around 85% of the tow vehicle's kerb weight. An AX won't have a kerb weight of more than 800Kgs, which mean maximum trailer weight shouldn't be more than 680Kgs.

I understand that HDIs will tolerate up to 30% bio, but veggie oil will burn out the lift pump.

When it read "anti-pollution fault", I think it was telling you that it was time to clean the particle filter and top up the fluid. Ignore the message and the engine goes into limp home mode.

Look to the front of the engine - over to the left. From it you'll see four thin pipes which run away to the four injectors. Look closely and you'll see a maker's name on it - either Lucas or Bosch - could be either. If it's Bosch you may be OK to use bio. If it's Lucas there's a chance that you'll be wanting a new fuel pump within a few thousand miles because the seals will have hardened and be leaking.

Can we take it you really mean 100% biodiesel? Some guys talk about biodiesel when they really mean straight vegetable oil. Next question - what sort of fuel pump is on your engine? Some are Bosch, others Lucas.

The temperature sender can be changed. You'll need to remove the mirror which has a spring ring holding it in place. Reach it from the outside bottom corner. If the coolant hasn't been changed for a while, it's maybe better to flush and put new ethylene glycol mix in. After all you don't know what's in there and they don't always mix.

For starters - take off the battery terminals and give them a clean.

Citroen recomend for the HDI 100000 miles or 80000 for adverse conditions. If you get the DW8 engine some have a recomended 80000 or 60000 for adverse conditions, whilst others (depending on engine number) have 80000 or 45000 for adverse conditions. Whatever - snapped cambelts are mentioned on these forums so often, I wouldn't be inclined to delay changing as long as that.

Do you need one?