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Not too sure why techbod sent you that link........however, i can confirm that the resistor pack is built into the blower motor assembly back and thus comes as a complete unit. The blower motor can be found on the drivers side of the vehicle under the dash mounted above the accelerator pedal......if memory serves me well its held on with 3 10mm nuts/bolts. Hope that helps you.

My thoughts on this: 1, get the brakes bled this is the first stage as air in the system can upset the brake operation. 2, if after bleeding the brakes you still have a problem it could well be the brake dozeur (master cylinder) at fault. in which case a replacement will be required.

Its a High Pressure Petrol pump on the engine that needs the seals......unfortunately its not designed to be stripped and rebuilt so internal parts arnt available from Citroen. It comes as a complete assembly.

Sorry, cant help you here..had a look at work we havent even got a scrap one around.

The only reason the vehicle is going to bob up and down in this fashion would be due to the hydraulic ram being supplied with fluid which upon entering the ram causes the movement due to pressure build up and then for the pressure to be lost. Assuming there are no external leaks here are some possibilities: 1, internal leak of the ram 2, height corrector fitted across the car malfunctioning/out of adjustment - but this would probably cause the opposit rear suspension leg to do the same 3, ther rigidity regulator failed and possibly leaking internally causing loss of pressure - again i would guess this would cause a problem with the opposing rear suspension aswell. As far as electronic defects are concerned the only part of the 'active' suspension to be electronic is a solenoid on the rigidity regulator.....However, this is controlled by the hydroactive suspension ecu......this ecu can have its fault codes read and will give indication if the rigidity solenoid is recieving a signal. My guess....and it is a guess would be a problem with the linkages or adjustment problems on the height corrector across the vehicle.

Does it now ? ........can anyone confirm if they can get the pictures to open, only i want to log off.

hopefully it will be as follows: yellow wire (6505) - goes to pin 1 orange wire (6504) - goes to pin 2 yellow wire (6502) - goes to pin 3 orange wire (6503) - goes to pin 4 Looking at the diagram i guess the other wires are all the same colour - white/blue? Whatever the colours are they should have corresponding numbers on the insulation...hard to see but it will be there.....so 6505 goes to 6505, 6504 goes to 6504.......etc. Hope that helps

32way grey A4 & A3 - look like supples from under bonnet fuse box - worth checking fuse 8 C3 - 12v from underbonnet fuse box check fuses 1 & 4 48 way brown J3 & L4 - ecu earth

Check your PM's, i've sent a message

This is for EDC16 Connector CME (48 -way grey) Connector and channels Signal A1 Not connected A2 Pre-post heating diagnostic information A3 Not connected A4 Not connected B1 Exhaust gas temperature sensor earth ( Downstream of the catalytic converter ) B2 Water in diesel detection information B3 Not connected B4 Not connected C1 Exhaust gas temperature sensor signal ( Downstream of the catalytic converter ) C2 Not connected C3 Not connected C4 Not connected D1 Fuel temperature sensorsignal D2 Not connected D3 Not connected D4 Not connected E1 Diesel fuel temperature sensor earth E2 Not connected E3 Detection of water in diesel fuel earth E4 Proportional electrovalve output (VT2) F1 Not connected F2 Inlet air temperature signal F3 Not connected F4 Electric doser G1 Line (BUS) G2 Inlet air temperature sensor earth output G3 Electric doser output G4 Proportional electrovalve output (WG1) H1 Not connected H2 (VC2) electrovalve output H3 Not connected H4 electrovalve output J1 Not connected J2 Electric valve output ( EGR ) J3 Not connected J4 Not connected K1 Not connected K2 Electric valve output (+) ( EGR ) K3 Not connected K4 Proportional sensor heating control L1 Control (+) of injector for cylinder n° 1 (1331) L2 Control (+) of injector for cylinder n° 3 (1332) L3 Cylinder n° 1 injector (-) control (1331) L4 Cylinder n° 3 injector (-) control (1333) M1 Control (+) of injector for cylinder n° 4 (1334) M2 Control (+) of injector for cylinder n° 2 (1333) M3 Cylinder n° 4 injector (-) control (1334) M4 Cylinder n° 2 injector (-) control (1333) Connector CMI (48 -way brown) - Signal A1 Camshaft signal A2 Camshaft sensor earth (AAC) A3 Lambda sensor signal (+) ( Upstream of the catalytic converter ) A4 Lambda sensor signal (-) ( Upstream of the catalytic converter ) B1 Not connected B2 Not connected B3 Proportional sensor signal (-) B4 Proportional sensor signal (+) C1 Not connected C2 Not connected C3 Inlet air pressure sensor 2 supply (-) ( Downstream of C2 ) C4 Inlet air pressure sensor earth D1 Engine oil level analogue earth D2 Oil temperature signal D3 Inlet air pressure sensor 2 signal ( Downstream of C2 ) D4 Inlet air pressure signal E1 Turbocharger position copy sensor earth E2 Turbocharger position copy sensor signal E3 Position copy doser signal (+) (RAS) E4 Position copy doser earth (+) (RAS) F1 Engine coolant temperature sensor earth F2 Coolant temperature information F3 Fuel pressure sensor signal F4 Fuel pressure sensorearth G1 Sensor supply (AAC) G2 Throttle potentiometer supply ( EGR electrovalve ) G3 Electrovalve position sensor signal ( EGR ) G4 Electrovalve position sensor earth ( EGR ) H1 Turbocharger position copy sensor supply H2 Sensor supply (+) H3 Not connected H4 Low oil pressure information J1 Pre-post heating unit control J2 Not connected J3 Not connected J4 Oil level signal K1 Engine speed information K2 Earth of the engine speed sensor K3 Not connected K4 Not connected L1 Supply of the engine speed sensor L2 Inlet air sensor 2 supply (+) L3 Fuel pressure regulation electrovalve control L4 Not connected M1 Supply M2 Supply M3 Supply M4 Fuel pump control Connector CH (48 -way black) Connector and channels Signal A1 CAN (Low) A2 CAN (High) A3 Power relay control output A3 Control of engine ECU power relay B1 Line K information B2 Clutch pedal information B3 Starting information B4 Additive heating control (2 volts) C1 Not connected C2 Alternator charge information C3 Cooling fan diagnostic information C4 Additive heating control 1 D1 Not connected D2 Not connected D3 Not connected D4 Not connected E1 Earth of the tight spot sensor of the accelerator pedal (1261) E2 Accelerator pedal point of resistance signal (1261) E3 Frequency air flow signal E4 Control of fan unit 2 F1 Accelerator pedal position earth 1 F2 Accelerator pedal position information 1 F3 Engine running information F4 Control of engine ECU main relay G1 Supply (5 volts) Foot throttle pedal G2 Accelerator pedal position information 2 G3 Redundant stop signal G4 Control of fan unit group 1 H1 Air conditioning pressure sensor earth H2 Air conditioning pressure sensor signal H3 Air conditioning pressure sensor supply H4 Not connected J1 Pressure sensor earth (FAP) J2 Differential pressure signal (FAP) J3 Differential pressure sensor supply (FAP) J4 Diesel additive pump control K1 Air flow sensor earth K2 Air flow sensor temperature signal K3 Wake-up signal from remote control (RCD) K4 Not connected L1 Body earth L2 Body earth L3 Supply of diesel injection ECU (1320) L4 Supply of diesel injection ECU (1320) M1 Body earth M2 Supply M3 Supply M4 Supply

If the snowflake is flashing you can be fairly confident that the gearbox computer has registered a fault. Because of this and the fact the engine ECU is linked to the gearbox ECU its likely that it will have reduced the power output of the engine electronically to stop you causing damage by driving it. With regards to the suggestion about the coil pack.....if it has failed it wouldnt cause the snowflake to flash. Unfortunately it seems you will be finding a dealer to check it out on the diagnostic equipment.

Some excellent comments here guys, to what has started off as a usefull tip. The important issues here are the fact its a job that is a pig to do when you have to do it and that the bolts have locktite along the whole length of the bolt......knowing that you are going to have to do it at some point in the vehicles life and at regular intervals thereafter its worth building it into your maintenance schedule, before you need to replace the pads, they will last longer that way. upon reassembly it is important that locktite is used on the bolt threads, and from experience i would also recommend the use of a torque wrench when tightening as the threads in the rear suspension arms are prone to stripping if overtightened......i would also recommend replacing the bolts and washers as they also have a tendency to snap. The manufacturer does recommend loctite along the whole length of the bolt.....but then they dont have to get them out later do they?.....so as to whether you do it is personal preference, and if your maintaining your own vehicle i'm sure you will be checking them when you inspect your brakes. And dont forget, if you leave the 8mm bolt tightened you dont end up with brake fluid all over the place when you remove the caliper.....you dont really want to bleed them ...do you? Allow plenty of time, have the right tools available and the job will go well.

You seem to be going about your diagnosis in a fit it and see type manner...... Have you got fuel coming out of the pump in tank when you crank the engine? Have you got power supplies and earths to the injection ecu? Have you had anyone read the fault codes on the car? Have you checked the compressions of the engine? I feel you need to go back to basics, so far you have spent a lot of time and effort and achieved a list of things it isnt.

either a new remote ordered to the correct code number or a remote and reciever as a matched pair

make sure whoever you take it to is able to download the main computer then other wise you will just be wasting time and money.

Worth booking the vehicle in with your local Citroen dealer to see if there is an update to the main vehicle computer. have had problems with some C3's where cranking the engine whilst the wipers were operating caused a bug to occur in the software that stopped both screen washers and front wipers working. disconnecting the com2000 under the steering wheel and rebooting computers would overcome it.

Techbod......I think the owner is fairly clear in that they mean orange engine management light , and not the red battery light. Typhoon......sounds to me like you need to find someone that can read the faultcodes in the engine management computer......this should give a good guide as to which part of the injection system has malfunctioned and put you in a better position to make a decision on how far you want people to go with repairing the vehicle. It sounds to me as if you have lost confidence in the garage you are using....and from your comments i'm not really supprised.....might be worth getting your car booked in with someone else to look at. A diagnostic at your local Citroen Dealer might be cheaper than you think.....why not give them a call....after a all you have already fitted a coil and not cured it.

Was you reading my mind?

.....now i can understand owning one XM......but 2 :o

The gearbox oil is checked by undoing the 17mm (i think) level screw in the gearbox end cover. This is viewed by getting your head under the near side front wing. The oil to be used is Total Transmission BV 75w - 80w Capacity from empty 2.0 litres. Do not use the method you have described to check the level.......it sounds as if it is over full. The risks from overfilling can vary, but in the first instance it's likely you will force oil out of the plastic breather pipe you are sticking your finger in. Also it could lead to difficult gear selection, contamination of the clutch, or in extreme circumstances cause oil seals to be forced out of the gearbox, causing total failure of the gearbox.

Welcome to the Forum, I hope you're able to learn plenty and share some experiences with us all. you'll be pleased to know that you dont have a particle filter.

So......have you checked to see if the throttle cable has been inadvertantly moved or snagged up in the engine compartment......or has the cable just become out of adjustment and requires adjusting. If you get someone to depress the throttle pedal does the other end of it turn as far as it can or can you assist it the last bit?.....if so try adjusting the cable. And finally......is it automatic or manual?