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if you apply the brakes at that speed does the noise dissappear? have you had anything done to the brakes/front hubs recently....cant remember off hand but is there a metal shield over the bottom ball joint?.....when the discs become hot could they be expanding and touching the shield? Some thoughts for you.....let us know what you find

you dont say if it is the original radio you have this connected to, or what make the accessorie is that you have fitted to the vehicle.....other than its for an ipod Soooo.......if as you say the buttons on the steering column all work when used for there original functions we can assume that its talking to the radio and isnt faulty. Question is, when you fitted the ipod adapter did you have to configure the radio for it to work and where have you plugged it in? Have you tried disconnecting the battery on the vehicle and reseting it all?

Soapy water (fairy liquid in water) sponge it down the rubber of the windscreen.......and then using an air line (available at your local petrol station) run it up and down the inside of the screen squirting air towards the side pillar........if there is enough air pressure you will see bubbles appear on the outside of the screen. Alternatively remove the bsi and look for the green corroded bits......i might add if it is the bsi this will require replacement by a main agent as it is coded to the vehicle.

I think you also have to consider that sometimes it can be cheaper to take your vehicle to a main agent. Whilst the labour rate may initially appear high, quite often problems will be solved quicker. An hours labour at a main agent will cost in the region of £70. quite often the problem will be diagnosed within the hour because as main agents we get used to seeing the 'common faults'. With regard to the fitment of the particle filter and topping up the Eolys tank, it does seem a bit early at that mileage to replace it and i wonder if maybe there is a further underlying fault. I cant understand them changing the filter and eolys seperately and would only assume they felt they were trying to save you money......my main concern regarding underlying faults would be that if they have replaced the filter and there is still a fault on thevehicle it could cause the new filter to block prematurely.....for information, cost of replacing a particle filter and eolys at a main dealer.....about £500. In my opinion, garages thrive on reputation......price doesnt always come into it, grab your yellow pages and thumb through the 'Garage Services' section and find a Citroen/Peugeot specialists then ask around and see if anyone recommends them......other citroen owners in your area....walk up to them and ask where they get theirs done...are they any good?.....its a simple question.....and whilst they may not recommend someone they might tell you where not to go and save you the hassle of finding out the hard way. And Finally....theres always the Main Dealer smaller familly run business is more likely to give a better level of service.

It isnt uncommon for Berlingos to suffer with water leaks from the windscreen after it has been replaced.....so the question is, has it ever been replaced? For it to have the problems your describing it maybe leaking down the drivers side screen pillar and ending up inside the BSI (main computer) which is situated just above the pedal assy.

1.8 litres 75w80

Polar White = EWP paint code

Have you checked the bulbs?

Here here........... i might also add that by people telling us the outcome of any suggestion it may help others in the future. Pet Hates: - People going on about rip off dealers...... - I dont want to buy a manual.....can someone tell me how to......? - if i buy a part off ebay can you tell me if it will work with......? - people PM'ing without 1st posting in the forum - Having to guess what car were talking about

Might be a silly suggestion.......but with the fuel leak has it now run out of fuel ?.....after all, you say the car stopped and then you noticed the fuel leak.....i wonder how long it had been leaking before it ground to a halt. Word of warning......dont trust the fuel gauge go put a gallon in.

Your not giving us much information about the vehicle........but if it has ABS brakes i doubt you will have a speed sensor as all information is provided by the abs wheel sensors......you wont want to start connecting your sat nav to your ABS. If you dont have ABS you will find it in the gearbox casing just above where the right drive shaft enters it.

5 minutes to check the vehicle in at reception, 1 minute to clock on and get vehicle in the work shop, 3 minutes carrying out checks on the vehicle that arnt related to the repair in hand because we are legally obliged to do so, 2 minutes reporting the problems identified to the customer for them to tell us they want to drive round on illegal tyres etc......5 minutes programming the radio, another 10 minutes trying to get the part working that the customer has supplied, 4 minutes taking money off the customer listening to them moan at the price.........and then......half hour of a technicians time showing the customer how it works because it doesnt work how they expected! In a nut shell half hours labour sounds reasonable, nothing takes 5 minutes, it takes longer than that to do the paperwork.

it needs to ge checked out by a dealer to establish what the fault codes are in the computer....from there a better idea will be obtained as to whats needed to fix it

Why do you want to watch the video when driving?

The white plug under the ecu ussually causes loss of fuel pressure and has no effect on the spark......my guess would be to get the engine speed sensor checked.....a faulty speed sensor wont always give a fault code. Tell us how you get on.

I'll try to keep this simple, and will start by describing how the fuel gauge works with just petrol: When you turn on the ignition the fuel guage checks its last known setting and how much fuel approximately is in the tank.....in other words if it was registering half a tank when last turned off does it agree that there is half a tank of fuel.....if it see's a significant difference in the quantity of fuel in the tank compared to that last registered it will adjust the fuel gauge accordingly. Once the engine is started the fuel gauge stops checking the fuel level using the float in the tank....instead it uses the information supplied by the fuel injection ecu.....the injection ecu is constantly calculating the amount of fuel to squirt into the engine and using this information it estimates how much it has used. So.....having carried out your journey, you turn the engine off, at this point the instument panel stores the last displayed fuel level. And so the cycle starts again where by you turn on the ignition and the fuel tank compares the last gauge setting with the level in the tank.......the significant difference that will cause the gauge to correct itself is around 10 - 15 litres.....remember the float in the tank is an estimate of fuel level and can be varied by parking at different angles. Should the fuel drop to a critical level the fuel gauge overides the injection ecu to illuminate the low level fuel light. So what happens when you fit an LPG kit? LPG kits are ussually 'spliced' into the original equipment fuel injection system, the lpg system will make use of various sensors that are already fitted to the vehicle, using its own ecu & lpg injectors aswell as the original equipment ECU & petrol injectors. When the engine is running on gas the the fuel gauge isnt going to know, the sensors will be telling the original ecu that the engine is running, and the ecu will be telling the fuel gauge that its using fuel......which means that the fuel gauge will drop while running. Now you may find that if you use the vehicle for long journeys it drops a fair way, but turning of and then back on again would probably get the fuel gauge to resynchronise itself with the level in the tank.....on shorter journeys it may take longer to show up as a discrepancy. Hope that answers your question

if the immobilizer is removed from the pump body it is possible that the inner pump seals can be come dislodged, this in turn can allow the pump to draw in air.....not a good position to be in. It is possible to grind through the imobilizer casing and by pass the immobilizer circuit, takes a bit of time but can be done.

I seem to remember that the ZX with abs was troublsome to bleed.....and if memory serves me correctly it involved the use of diagnostic comuters to open the solenoid valves to allow the fluid to pass through the abs vave block. You have spent a great deal of time going over the car already.....but a suggestion for you. All brakes have a flexible pipe going to them, if your able, before doing anything else try clamping the pipes (gently) and pump pedal to see if it becomes less spongy.....maybe do rear first then front.....then try diagonally. If its related to adjustment in the rear drums or or a caliper/disc fault the pedal will become firmer as clamping will eliminate that part of the circuit. If you have abs check to see if it has a bleed valve on the abs unit.....try bleeding the unit...might not haveone so if you cant see it dont worry. As far as the servo is concerned....if its working it makes the pedal spongy....if it isnt it feels like standing on a brick. To test the servo, with engine off depress brake pedal several times to evacuate all vacuum.....having done that apply pressure to the brake pedal....and start the car......the pedal should go down, if it does it is having a vacuum applied to it and the servo isnt leaking. If the pedal doesnt move when you start it you could have a punctured servo diaghragm, it may be fitted incorrectly, the pipe going to it could be leaking or the vacuum pump on the end of the cylinderhead may be faulty......if you remove the vacuum pipe from the servo with the engine running it should suck on your finger!

No you cant do that, the code is locked in the fuel injection ecu, the keypad is just the means with which to enter it.

and also check your battery earth mounting on the gearbox

I will assume from the above post that you didnt take the car to your Citroen Dealer and explain that you wern't happy and ask them to approach Citroen on your behalf for an out of warranty claim. I have yet to have them turn one down, and its far easier than letter writting and sitting on telephones for .....as you say, is a known problem. As far as the reasons for failure.....as with everything nowadays it is made to a price and designed to wear out......in this country not only do we have poor quality roads, we also have the addition of salt during the winter months.....do they salt the roads in spain?....i dont know. But i do know of vehicles in other countries based close to the salty sea air have problems.

more help maybe forth coming if you tell us what age & engine size/petrol/diesel.......in the mean time i suppose the first question should be asked as to whether it has been serviced recently. If its a petrol model plug gaps should checked, plug leads where fitted and distributor cap if applicable....fuel filter needs replacing regularly and when replacing check to see if filled with water, if it is check tank for water content....assuming of course you have the correct fuel in it.....when did yu last fill up is it possible you got it wrong? Most models have an idle control valve it could be sticking or the airway bocked......but check the basics first.

i'm sure plenty here would love to help you but without telling us a bit more .......like what model xantia, engine size, fuel type, manual/automatic... and description of the type of noise, squeak/whine/rattle etc. does the noise get worse as gets hotter, does it do it if you just let it warm up, or will it only do it if driven?

You dont say if you had the valve clearances done on that service......maybe i missread it....but if you didnt and you have done 10k since the fitting of the lpgi would get them checked.....if you dont you could end up with damaged valve seats. My knowledge of this comes from Berlingo 1.4's that we service regularly that are converted......the toyota lump may react diiferently, but better to be safe than sorry.......did you get the lpg pressures checked aswell?

Dont forget to get the valve clearances adjusted and spark plus replaced annually as you will find the will require more attention due to this set up. The valve clearances will close up with use and cause lack of compression so failure to get it done will cause poor starting in the first instance. Nice to hear about a worth while mod that in time will hopefully save a few pennies....have you worked out how long it will take to break even?