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Can i assume that the clarion radio fitted to the vehicle isnt the same as the unit originally fitted by the manufacturer.....and isnt fitted to any citroen/peugeot as original equipment? Whats the chances of pluging the original faulty unit in to see if the stalk works?

As i suggested in post 5.......have you checked the bulbs........all too often we look too indepth for what are simple problems.

it sounds as if the diesel shut off solenoid which is fitted to the diesel pump is jaming n the open position....this means the fuel supply to the pump isnt shut off and means the engine keeps running/

glad the suggestions pointed you in the right direction

What happens if you disconnect the rear light units and depress the brake pedal switch. Have you made sure the correct bulbs are fittedinto the correct bulb holders?

Cant help feeling that the catalytic convertor isnt doing its job. Upstream oxygen sensor should be cycling between 0.1v & 0.8v, Downstream should be a fixed value of about 0.5v

if its a VDO unit there is no memorisation of CD tracks when the ignition is switched off

Sometimes if the engine oil is overfilled it will also respond as you describe....is it over full?........was it working ok before you did the oil change?

Unfortunately this is correct on this model

So many people think they know how to drive......but they all drive differently.....someone must be right!

Excellent write up......so often owners forget to check the basics, and often even when the vehicle appears to be running correctly an adjustment of the throttle cable can make a significant difference to how the vehicle feels. With regard to the cable, its made up of three parts......the inner cable, a sleeve & the outer cable....with age the inner cable cuts into the sleeve this can cause internal friction and cause it to feel 'firm to press'.....a bit of lubrication will sometimes help but it ussually needs a new cable.

Sold a lot of C1's and disagree that there is a problem with the components. However, clutch adjustment is critical and isnt self adjusting. Drivers that use the clutch pedal as a footrest will cause premature failure of the clutch assy as will an incorrectly adjusted clutch. Fitted a clutch into a C1 last week....the only one i can remember, parts came in over night so no delays. As for the reason for failure.....could be one of 2 reason.....having done less than 1000 miles possibly just a faulty component......alternatively, as the driver is deaf maybe they cant hear the engine revs when pulling away. Having seen the vehicle being driven i would go for the later!.....as its done less than a 1000 miles warranty have paid for this one lets see how long the next one lasts.

To my knowledge the time duration of economy mode on late Dispatch III vans cant be modified. the only way round this would be to get the radio rewired to have a constant power feed.....and remember to turn it off!

yup :lol:

Obviously you will have read that in the event of a spring failure it can damage the flexi brake hose....other than that, nothing special about the sensors other than to say it picks up from a magnetic dust shield on the hub bearning.....so worth checking no bits of rust attached to it!

How old is the dispatch?

Take the chassis number of your car to your local dealer and see if they will help you.......dont expect them to do it by phone, and expect to part with some cash.

Done it

How many forum members does it take to change a light bulb? 1 - to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 - to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 - to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 1 - to move it to the Lighting section 2 - to argue then move it to the Electrical section 7 - to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 5 - to flame the spell checkers 3 - to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 - to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 - industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp" 15 - know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct 19 - to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 11 - to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 - to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 7 - to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 - to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 3 - to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 13 - to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add "Me too" 5 - to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 - to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?" 13 - to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs" 1 - forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.

.....yup your wrong :lol: ......they do have a 12,500 service interval.....and if you are doing 12,500 miles in a year or less you would be getting the belt changed on the 8th service.........however, if your doing low mileage they put a time limit on it....which is 10 years. For vehicles which are used under harsh stop start/dusty conditions (taxi drivers/couriers should read this), the vehicle should be serviced every 10,000 miles, and the belt replaced at 80,000 miles.........so next time you hear of someone with a belt failure you need to ask yourself if they were maintaining it correctly....not many do because they want to save pennies!

The pick up can be found running off the flywheel.....seem to remember it is at the rear of the engine, above the gearbox differential and pokes through from the engine block to the rear of the flywheel.

100,000 miles normal use, 80,000 miles harsh use or every 10 years if this occurs sooner.

Which computer are you getting the fault code in?

Have you checked to see if the metal shield around the lower suspension ball joint is close too or rubbing on the inner face of the disc? When the brakes get warm they will expand and get fatter they could be making contact.

when i get 5 minutes i'll put a welcome page in for you all.....that should be the kiss of death.