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Yes i'm here.......looks like you have the answer now though :D ......hope your keeping well

from the problem your describing i would suspect either wheel balance or steering track rod ends as being the likely suspects. You might try swopping wheel front to rear to see if the 'shimmy' alters its frequency at all. You could try adjusting the preloading on the track rod end to remove any excess free play. If your unaware you will find in the end of the track rod end a small split pin that locates an adjusting nut. As to how you adjust it, i would suggest tightening the nut a bit at a time untill you find the steering is getting tight to turn......this will occur because the ball joint is more than likely oval and this will limit movement. Do this to both sides and see if it makes a difference. And finally, the good old kingpins.....time to fill the grease gun and fill them up. Let me know how you get on

It was the valve lift / overlap aswell

the engine fitted into the Xantia are as follows: XUD9TE - DHX, DHY, D8B The ZX19TD, Xsara Mk1, Synergie use the same engine ......but the injectors, pump, flywheel maybe different if the engine you find hasnt got markings that relate it to one of the following references 'XUD9TE - DHX, DHY, D8B' i would leave it, even if it looks the same. Had an experience a few years back where a customer fitted a peugeot 1.6 lump into his bx1.6......we wernt told until we ha spent a good few hours trying to sort his running problems. The engine was identical externally.....but the exhaust/inlet valves were bigger and the camshaft was incorrect!!!

1st off the Xantia models have 2 types of keys, the are both different to Xsara. With regards thos programing instructions......i would be very interested to hear if anyone made them work.....never seen it done like that. With regards to the second hand keys you have acquired..... it is unlikely you will be able to get them to program to your vehicle, i doubt a main dealer would be able to do it either. If iannez is out there maybe he would like to comment......i maybe wrong

yes there are alignment detail......suspension height is adjustable and toe in/out is also adjustable. What have you done that makes you think you need to so some alignment? ...........and, if you require settings what age/model is it?

is there a screw at the blade end?

Give us a bit more information.......what age.......what engine size......... and i'll go look for you, without it i'll do nothing.

I very much doubt you will get the second hand keys to program to your car, with regard to swopping the keyblade over....the pivot pin is available as a spare part...one bit presses into the other...best thing to do is pop to your dealer and lok at the part...you will see how its fitted together that way. A sensible suggestion.......your old keys obviously dont work because the button has come off....presumably they worked ok till that point. Why not find an old fashioned radio/tv repairer and ask him to swop the switch from one to the other......providing you dont get charged more than £40 and it works i would think it to be the best option. Have soldered plenty of switches back onto the circuit boards. Incidently, it might seem a poor idea to mount the switches that way round......but what i can never understand is how pushing the button harder will provide a signal when the battery is ussually flat......now if batterys were like toothpaste tubes i could understand the principle, but there not!

There are at least 2 models of CD changer according to part numbers that could fit this vehicle. To obtain the correct part number you would probably be advised to furnish your local dealer with your chassis number. With regard to your comment about the usefullness of the forum, I appreciate that a response would show the post has been read but surely its better that no answer is given rather than incorrect information! Maybe when you find the answer you could post it here to be of benefit to others in the future.

Some thing else worth checking: If the front brakes ahave been binding they may have over heatd the discs, i have seen situations where the brakes are bled and everything is working correctly but the discs are 'dished'. As well as checking runout i would remove the disc and check using a straight edge (steel rule on its side) from one side of the disc across to the other and see if it looks flat. ie it looks like '|[' and not like '|(' or '|)'

It maybe that your car does have a noisy exhaust, its also possible that if you have a petrol model its just making a different exhaust note due to having a 3 cylinder engine. As far as the exhaust is concerned it may be covered by the 3 year warranty subject to it being a manufacturing defect and not wear and tear/corrosion. Not aware of any specific squeaky seat problems.

Depends on several factors.....for insatnce: What is the problem they are diagnosing? What is there labour rate? How long is it likely to take?

Might be worth checking the crankshaft pulley - check here

Assuming you ZX has the switch it should be found in the panel above the rear of the o/s headlamp.....having said that, not all ZX's with alarms had that switch.....and if it isnt a genuine alarm it wouldnt have it either. The other method for disarming the alarm is to open the door (alarm sounds), put key in ignition switch and turn to accessory position (you have 10 seconds to do that), and then press a button on the dash which is to the right of the steering wheel, the switch has a picture of a siren on it with a cross through it.......and if your lucky pressing the switch will cancel the alarm.

Try checking fuse no1 in the glovebox fuse box.

It will definately be controlled electronically If you can tell us how old the vehicle is, whether its the mark1 or mark 2 version and engine size we might find someone passing through that can give suggestions.

To diagnose you problem......when you drive the car the speedo doesnt work.....does the mileometer or trip meter work?....if only one out of the three works the chances are it will require a speedo head.....if none of it works it could still be a speedo head fault, could be a cable broken/disconnected or it could have a damaged gear on the speedo drive where it goes into the gearbox. If you disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox end and the speedo head get someone to turn one end and see if it turns at the other. If the cable is broken, make sure the speedo isnt siezed use a small screwdriver in the drive to turn it....turn it quick enough in the right direction the speedo should move. If after this you have decided the cable aint broke, and the speedo twitches then you will be checking out the speedo drive.......let us know how you get on. Incidently, when you remove the speedo head the cable should be attached at the rear.....once you realise that you wernt born double jointed 3 handed with eyes at the ends of your fingers you will get the temptation to 'pull it a bit and see if it will pop off'........it will pop off...... and you will definately need a new cable whether it was faulty or not.......patience disconnecting the speedo cable could save you money.

The battery light will normally come on when the system detects it isnt charging the battery. So assumng the battery is connected the alternator connection is secure and the engine has a good earth you going to need to get the system checked out. For an educated guess i'd say the alternators on its way out, but that is a guess and thats why i say you should get it checked. You dont want to spend your hard earned cash on an alternator if you only needed to tighten a connector up!

Citroen Service is also available to access by the public for a small fee. However, unless you know what your looking for and where to find it you will end up spending a lot of money. And when you have found it it isnt easy to save the pages.

Check the following fuses if you havent already Maxi Fuse D under bonnet, Shunt fuse in cabin, fuse 25, fuse 19, fuse 7

Press the locking button on the dash for ten second with the ignition on, to reinstate it do it again.

You dont say how old it is but you could try checking the large maxi fuse in the engine bay 'fuse D' and also check for power at fuses 25, 15 & 2 in the cabin fuse box, also make sure the shunt fuse is in the correct position or hasnt fallen out.....the shunt fuse will have the letters 'SH' on it.

An RP No is the build date of the vehicle and found on the bottom of the sticker with the tyre pressures...... an RP No of 08117 = 29 Jan 1999 aprox if you want to see the date yours rolled off the production line put your RP No in here The Rp No is also refered to as the Orga Number or build date.

To get the most help it always helps to tell us as much information about the vehicle as possible.....an RP NO is always a good start as it will give us a good idea of the build date. From Memory there are a choice of three wiring configurations for the Xsara.