kfk

I'm not going to say it can be done as there are probably reasons why it shouldnt /cant be.......however: The rear beam on the early models is the same part number ast the beam on an 05 model. The rear suspension arms on the newer model are the same as the arms fitted to early models produced after RP No: 9520, which is a build date of december 02nd 2002. I definately wouldnt recommend using the hydraulics as they will more than likely be different.

i suppose we should all be glad you only bought a C1 if your going to thrash the nuts off it trying to take photos of the speedo......its a sad world where we consider a photo of this to be interesting.

And you believe a salesman?

I think i would have been worried about the bonnet flying up ....not to mention the foldup windows acting as wings.....scary

the fault with the handbrake/oil warning light will require a new instrument panel to resolve.....not uncommon.

If your looking for a 2 pin connector......it doesnt have one......it has a large brown connector in the fuse box or 16 way black in the fusebox

Sometimes things get replaced because the information given to the workshop is different to what the customer has actually complained about. Other times it can be caused by a poor description of a fault from the customer.... and then you get the other situation.......the customer 'thinks' there is a fault with the vehicle, no one can replicate the fault at the dealership.....but the customer keeps coming back and wont accept the answer no fault found......eventually someone decides to do something, the customer unfortunately now thinks the garage has experienced the fault and feels the garage is now admitting there is a fault.....the part fitted doesnt cure the fault, so the customer brings it back and tells them they havent cured it......again the garage cant recreate the fault, but they also cant convince the customer its normal.....because they havent experienced it.....someone decides to fit something else.....which also doesnt work. Would have been easier if your dealership had the balls to tell you from the outset it was being driven outside of its designed parameters.

In my opinion i would say that your driving the vehicle outside of the limits its designed to operate. In the good old days.....and i can go back 25 years when we didnt have engine management systems compensating for our lack of driving skills. Instead we made sure we were in the right gear to give us greatest flexibility from the engine....and to this end we might be lucky to see 35mpg. Of course, if you left your car in 4th gear and had the miss fortune to loose engine speed, you either put your foot flat to the floor to try and get some momentum, or gave the vehicle a quick flick down the box...ussually 2 gears to give the car a chance to cope with the conditions. With todays technology you will find you can leave your car in a higher gear than might have been desirable in the past....and whilst trundling round at 1,300rpm it may produce fantastic fuel economy, but your trading the drivability aspects of the vehicle in doing this. Again going back to the old days most vehicle when shutting the throttle and slowing down , both petrol or diesel would still be sucking/injecting a small quantity of fuel into the engine......with modern systems we have a situation where computers shut the fuel off when they see you are slowing down....its called shut off on deceleration and helps save fuel.....obviously it also has to reinstate injection at a certain point to stop the vehicle stalling aswell.......so here is maybe where your problem occurs. Your trying to drive the vehicle at 1300rpm (or there abouts) on a very light throttle (driving economically), the vehicle will reach the desired speed and you will maintain it by very slight adjustment to the throttle position.......in fact what you are doing is hovering your foot at the fuel shuttof/fuel reinstatement position....and this will give under certain circumstances a fairly violent shudder. In my opinion you dont want to be driving any vehicle below 1,500rpm and ideally keep it above 1,800rpm....but thats my opinion. I might also add that i am aware of the specific shudder your on about and would recommend using a lower gear.......modern cars are very forgiving....under what conditions would you have used overdrive 30 years ago....would it work well at 37mph?

If its one of the rigid plastic coolant hoses that runs around the rear of the engine its something that is becoming more common and can be caused by the air filter casings etc not being refited correctly and then rubbing through....as far as a difficult job.....its more time consuming than difficult.....like.....its only a hose...why does it take a couple of hours to fit?

try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery............make sure you have the radio code first.

Autodiagnos multi tester pro

Interesting subject this additve ecu reset......weve had 3 C8's in this week, cant do a reset on any of them.....called in a favour from one of our local one man bands and he hooked up his diagnostic kit and cleared the faults in all 3 within 20minutes...and he'd never done it before... So my advice at the moment would be to see if you have anyone in your area that can clear the fault.....if they have the official citroen equipment i doubt it will work, we have 6 laptops equiped with various versions of the manfacturers software and none of them work....... ........maybe iannez would like to toss his 2 penneth in

C5 2.0 Hpi isnt the best engine for running faults......do yourself a favour and buy the correct part for the job, it will save you buying another one later.

Translation of the above post: Thats a result, they hope to replace the glove box under warranty, together with the hinges. A pity i've got to wait for them to get the parts in, but they told me i had a recall outstanding on the vehicle so they will do it all next week. On a downside, they've had to hold the dash closed with some gaffa tape...but the option would have been to leave it flapping and have my passenger bashing there knees, or to remove the glovebox lid and leave a hole in the dash! ......well i think it reads better

Try pushing the lever backwards instead of pulling it forwards.

Regarding arnold clark i googled this .....might be worth a read. As far as the coils are concerned, its recommended you replace all, of course it would be helpfull if you knew which had failed.....the 3 at the rear arnt a quick swop round when you get the wrong one and still find a missfire

no you wont need it

http://www.chic-wedding-cars.co.uk/ http://www.citroenwedding.co.uk/index.htm

Or try disconnecting and reconnecting battery again......or get a strong magnet and hold it against the diplay to force needle round.

possibly find that the cigarette lighter socket has been damaged by using a mobile phone/sat nav power lead and caused it to short circuit internally

Well seeing as the switch for the seatbelt alarm is inside the seatbelt stalk the easiest way would be to put your seat belt on! The cheapest way to turn it off if you have a phobia for wearing seatbelts would be to go down the breakers yard with a knife and find a suitable buckle from a peugeot/citroen that fits......it can be removed if you need to fit the seat belt and left in when you dont.....the added advantage with this is it isnt a permenant dissablement. You might find a dealer that will turn it off for you....but expect to pay £30 upwards if they are willing.

......maybe because they only have one leg, and unlike you dont have a choice!

the vernier sounds a good idea because 35mm rings a bell with me

because non standard radios if fitted incorrectly cause exactly the symptoms you are describing

Has the vehicle had a replacement radio recently? as this could be very relevant