kfk

might be: - worth checking to see if the wheel or a balance weight is rubbing on one of the ABS sensor wires. - Could just be a case of having put the suspension into high to change the wheels it has put a strain on one of the sensor wires causing the wire to fail internally.

good point...evening iannez

Yes its normal, its to attract your attention to the fact it could be icy outside

Are you sure the cooling sytem has been bled properly? looking t the picture below see if you can go make a funel using an old washing up liquid bottle (a bit of blue peter here), and use it to raise the water level above your engine height, follow the instructions on the picture. http://www.citroendata.co.uk/models/2001/2001_xantia_xm_synergie/images/2001_xantia_xm_synergie_Page_133.gif

the abs lamp will come on when it detects an electronic fault, so i doubt the accumulator sphere would cause it. The likely candidate will be a wheel sensor, of which there are 4, with the posibility that its the abs ecu. If the light comes on intermitently i would suggest a wheel sensor as the likely cause....when the ecu fails it ussually causes the light to stay on permenant......of course it shouldnt be ruled out that connections, wiring and relays can also cause faults within the circuit.....to check the sensors at home you would need a multimeter and have a degree of knowledge to use it....all the abs sensors should be baout the same resistance.....if one is faulty it will have a wildly different reading.......of course a decode at a garage may be quicker.

Yup its the ABS light

I suppose a question that should be asked here is this........did they ask your permission to remove the gearbox and advise you that you were liable for costs until the warranty company agreed responsibility......they should have done. No warranty company will accept costs until a diagnosis has been made and it is confirmed that the failure is covered by the policy. is your vehicle at the garage who sold it to you or a main dealer?

Seen a couple of these and know that they are happilly running around without the balance weight connected. ......havent noticed an problems with them, can only assume it helps reduce vibration through the gear lever. I assume for the price they are quoteing they have recommended a new gearbox....why if it needs to be done cant they drill it out, has it broken the casing, or have they made the situation worse by trying to drill it out and getting the hole off centre? Obviously, i realise it doesnt help you with regard to who should pay for repairs....maybe the selling garage should be responsible seeing as you have only had it a month. Have the garage removed the gearbox yet or is it still assembled?

www.citroendata.co.uk

2 of the wires in the radio harness will be carrying the data signal, these wires are in turn connected to the instrument panel, BSI and Radio. depending on the spec and type of vehicle there maybe other components daisy chained into this circuit, but for the benefit of the radio we will stick with just the instrument panel & BSI today. Each of the data wires carries a data signal (well they would), one being a mirror image of the other. if you short these wires together not only will the radio stop functioning, it will also cause a problem with other components daisy chained into the circuit. If you short circuit one wire the system may work in a downgraded mode. It can tell if a data wire is broken/shorted because they give a mirror image signal of each other. So what happens if you shove 12volts down the wire.......well anything else connected to the wire will get a little bit excited, possibly followed by the smell of burning....the data wires arnt fused! So why doesnt your radio work......are the original data wires connecting to a pin on your new radio that they shouldnt be? i would identify the data wires and make sure they are isolated from other electrical connections...see if it then works, obviously it would be helpful to ensure you have voltage/earths at the correct pins before you do this. tell us how you get on.

Wouldnt mind but Nationwide have a habit of booking cars in with us just recently...dunno if there resident Citroen 'Expert' is on holiday.

when you reconnect it the immobilizer cuts back in.........then you hope you can remember the code, cos you can bet this will be several months later when you decide to do it!

Vibrations when driving between 110 and 130 kilometres/hour DIAGNOSIS - Wheels poorly balanced. Rebalance all the wheels. Operating procedure: 1. Checking the condition of the wheel assemblies Check that there are no signs of impact on the wheel rims or on the tyres. Check that there are no flat spots on the tyres. Check that there are no signs of premature wear on any of the tyres. Check that there is no damage to any of the tyres, caused by a puncture. Check the tyre pressures (cold) with reference to the specifications given on the front LH vehicle pillar. Check that the wheels, rims and tyres are clean (free of grime, soil, chippings etc.). 2. Findings on the wheel assemblies available from a conventional balancer Determine whether the vibrations are of the vertical or angular type, by looking at the movement of the steering wheel during a road test on a smooth road surface : If the movement of the steering wheel is vertical (vibrations to the floor and seats), then the vibration is caused by the balancing of the rear wheels If the movement of the steering wheel is vertical and angular, the vibration arises from the balancing and/or the uniformity of the front wheels as well as from the balancing the rear wheels If the movement of the steering wheel is angular, the vibration arises from the balancing and/or the uniformity of the front wheels 1) note down the values of the weights as well as their positions on the rims ; before removing the wheels, note down their locations on the vehicle and their positioning relative to the hub. 2) remove the weights and carry out balancing of the wheel assemblies. During balancing, check that there is no "ovality" or "run-out" by the wheel. 3) admissible values for the weights if the weights and/or their positions are different from those on the original wheel assembly : Wheel with steel rim : admissible weight value : 60 grammes maximum per side and a total de 115 grammes maximum Wheel with aluminium rim : admissible weight value : 50 grammes maximum per side (if the weight is clipped on the exterior) and a total of 95 grammes or 50 grammes on the interior and 80 grammes on the exterior (weight bonded) and a total of 115 grammes maximum 4) if the values and the positions of the weights are identical to those on the original wheel assembly, go to paragraph 10. 5) refit the wheel assemblies on the vehicle to their original positions . position the tyre valve to "12 o´clock". 6) pre-tighten the wheel bolts. 7) position the tyre valve to "6 o´clock". 8) tighten the wheel bolts to 90 N.m. 9) road test the vehicle. 10) if the vehicle vibrations persist, rotate the tyre around the rim by a half-turn . rebalance all the wheels. 11) if the weights are less than their admissible values, refit the wheel assemblies on the vehicle to their original positions , see paragraph 2.3). 12) position the tyre valve to "12 o´clock". 13) pre-tighten the wheel bolts. 14) position the tyre valve to "6 o´clock". 15) tighten the wheel bolts to 90 N.m. 16) road test the vehicle. 17) if the vehicle vibrations persist, rotate the tyre around the rim by a quarter-turn . rebalance all the wheels. 18) if the weights are less than their admissible values, refit the wheel assemblies on the vehicle to their original positions , see paragraph 2.3). 19) road test the vehicle. 20) if the vehicle vibrations persist or if the weights are less than their admissible values, see paragraph 2.3). 21) remove the tyre from the rim. Measure the run-out and the out-of-balance : If the rim run-out is less than or equal to 0.4 millimetre and the residual out-of-balance is less than 27 grammes , replace the tyre If the rim run-out is less than or equal to 0.4 millimetre and the residual out-of-balance is greater than 27 grammes , replace the rim If the rim run-out is more than or equal to 0.4 millimetre , replace the rim If you have changed the tyre or the rim but the vibrations persist, place the wheel assemblies on a test bed for measuring uniformity and variations in radial force (VFR), type Hunter GSP 9700. Apply the procedure for checking the uniformity and variations in radial force (VFR) as recommended by the manufacturer of the test equipment. If the vibrations persist following these checks........you either havent done it properly or its nothing to do with wheel balance!

So you've replaced the BSI: - have you had it programmed to the vehicle - did you buy it from a Dealer or a breakers yard? - Do you realise the engine immobilizer is part of the BSI. - Have you tried starting it with the old BSI?

Check for a ring of corrosion around the outer edge of the front discs. It isnt unnusual for the corrosion to occur to such an extent that when the discs get hot, which causes them to expand, that the corrosion then rubs within the front brake calipers as it passes through.......by the time you have whipped the wheels of to check this phenomena the discs will have cooled and no fault will be found.

For many years i've been servicing a taxi drivers car, he's a great bloke, if it needs doing......we just do it.......trust is a wonderfull thing. Having said that i did have a situation with him and his clutch a Xantia. I realised after i had spoken to him that he seemed a bit upset at having to replace his clutch at 180,000 miles, so upset in fact that he made several calls to me asking what the reason was for its failure!.....much discusion ensued and i really wasnt making him any happier so having pointed out that some would have been on there 4th clutch by now and he's done really well i had to ask him out right what was bugging him. His answer..........'well my clutch in the last xantia lasted 280,000 miles!'.......and he was right it had....so he was being short changed by 100,000.....but somehow i couldnt quite see it the way he was.

No i dont agree, all to often i see customer induced faults.......just because something has failed it doesnt mean its going to be covered by warranty. From a dealer point of view my first job is to obtain authority to investigate the fault....now in some instances the fault is obvious .....in other occasions it may take time to establish the cause of a fault. Take for instance your vehicle. From what your saying you have a fault that may be related to the coolant temperature sensor, if the sensor is faulty more than likely this will be a covered component, but it doesnt mean they will pay the time taken to confirm the fault or the antifreeze if required.....they will however pay for the sensor and labour to fit. If on the other hand the fault isnt within the sensor and turns out to be high resistance in the engine wiring harness you may find they wont contribute towards the repair at all because most extended warranties specifically exclude poor connection/harnesses, so in addition to the diagnosis you may have to pay for any connectors used plus the time taken to diagnose where the faulty bit of wiring is. So taking the above information on board you will hopefully understand that it is better for the warranty company to get the customer to arrange diagnosis with the knowledge that they may be responsible for repairs, rather than tell you everything is covered.....wait till the cars in lots of bits with a bill for diagnosis and then tell you its not a covered component. Even with new car warrantys i have to advise customers that they are responsible for costs untill such time as a manufacturing defect is identified. I would advise you read the list of excluded items and also covered items, remember if its not in the list of covered items and it doesnt show in the list of excluded either you can guarantee it wont be covered.

The reason it does this is to stop people flattening the battery.....which they would! it is far more inconvenient to have to jump start your car.

Extended warranty companies will not pay for any repairs untill it is proven they are responsible for costs. So in the first instance any investigation is your responsibility. It should also be considered that some warranties wont pay the full labour rate so again i would establish how much you might have to contribute should they accept responsibility.

Maybe owners should use the vehicle as transport rather than a Cafe!

The public are often quick to point out that main dealers are expensive compared to the 'local specialist'. Now whilst this may be true when getting a vehicle serviced and having standard 'fitting jobs' carried out it isnt the case when they are presented with something unusual. I would consider that they should have noticed it had Xenon bulbs before they took the vehicle apart so i cant really see why you were charged for there lack of knowledge. I would hope they will fit your replacement bulb labour free on that basis. With regards the cost of the bulb....thats about right. The Tyre sensor......i suppose i should ask the obvious, has the wheel that its saying has got the fault, got a sensor fitted?....this can be identified by checking if the tyre valve has a solid metal stem......if it has a rubber stem and is flexible it is an ordinary valve......so, if it has a rubber valve, check your spare and see it that has got the sensor fitted......if it has a solid valve fitted (one with a sensor) try over inflating the tyre to see if the fault dissapears, or finding a gauge where you know it is giving a correct reading, dont assume the guage you are using even if new is accurate.....look for the easy option before you start pulling the car to bits.

The switch has to be pushed in to get the roof over the rear screen.......but if your having a problem with it operating after you try that i would suggest a trip to your local dealer and ask them to demonstrate to you how it works. As a point of interest if the roof is broken it could cost around £2000 to fix

Xantia mk1 & Mk2, Synergie, Dispatch 1 & 2 all share the same engine, however the gearbox is either unique or shared with a few Dispatch models. As a point of interest, dont take a chance and fit an engine because it has come out of a'1,9 TD' so it must be the same........most of the differences will be within the engine usually valve sizes, valve lift or cam timing......it will never run correctly.

well i doubt the can of wd40 will come in handy as it will more than likely require a switch, which is situated on the top of the gearbox.....suggest you start by pulling all the air filter housing out so you can see what your doing.

Delayed braking on startup could be attributed to a failure of the accumulator sphere mounted on the front of the engine. Its purpose in life is accumulate a reserve of pressure that could be used in the event of a belt/pump/suspension failure to allow you to bring your vehicle safely to a stop......it should start charging with pressure as soon as the engine is started, once pressure is achieved it then uses the excess to pump up the suspension, topping itself up as required. This is ussually identified by a clicking noise that occurs when sitting ticking over, the frequency of the click becomes greater as the accumulator looses its efficiency.....if your not sure on hydraulic systems i would suggest you find a citroen specialist to do it for you. with regard to the indicators clicking. It isnt unussual for the springs within the indicator switch to become weak. Sometimes you can simulate the fault you are getting by applying very light pressure to the indicator stalk in either up or downwards direction....if this is the fault then it needs a new switch as there arer no user replaceable parts inside.