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yellow wire with black mark on end - from fuse 8 - constant power feed (memory) Blue wire - from fuse 2 - ignition switched supply Orange wire - from fuse 12 - supply from lights on (to dim radio display at night) Yellow wire with brown mark on end - Earth All the green wires are speaker connections with a coloured trace on the end of them green grey +ve + green yellow -ve = N/S/F green red +ve + green brown -ve = O/S/F green +ve + green white -ve = N/S/R green black +ve + green blue -ve O/S/R I hope that lot mkes sense to you.

Give us a clue time............what engine?

It should also be considdered that externally and engine maybe ok, but on the inside it could be completely different with regard to cam profiles and valve sizes. I speak from experience on this.......many years ago a customer came in with a BX16 petrol he was having problems with, it turned out the engine he had fitted into it came from a peugeot 205. The cylinderheads and injection sytems were totally different, the weights of the cars were different sothe internal mapping of the injection ecus were wrong.......and we wernt told about this untill we had wasted a good few hours. With the diesel engines the main problems are Bosch/lucas injection systems, wiring harness connectors on sensors, camshaft mounted vacuum pumps, If it looks like it will fit, it probably will.....doesnt mean it will ever run right though.

Evening VTS Owner, Hope you enjoy your time here........i'm sure some others will be along shortly.....a bit like buses, wait for ages then all arrive at once!

Should have spoken to your citroen dealer service department about the spring failure, they would probably have submitted a goodwill claim to Citroen and arranged to have them fitted free of charge......unfortunately its too late to persue that route now. It also begs the question at to whether you vehicle has had the suspension cup recall to prevent damage to the tyre when the spring fails......this too should be carried out free of charge by your main dealer if its required.

My advice would be to speak to your local dealer as there are various updates some of which include the replacement of the complete roof cassete assy (£1750 + Fitting). If you speak to your dealer and they diagnose this as required i would advise you speak to Citroen customer services/your dealer and see if you get a result........no point speaking to Citroen untill you have spoken to your dealer.

I seem to remember the Radio has a 3.5mm jack plug on the fascia if you connect this to the 3.5mm jack plug on your mp3 player you wont have to tune it through your radio. The cable should be obtainable through Maplin assuming of course that it isnt still sitting in its plastic bag in the glove box!

When they produced the C1 it was supposed to be a budget car designed for 'students' a cheap modern, no frills form of transport.......i like the car but cant help feeling Citroen Lost The plot. As far as cars with lists of options.......i agree the car should be available as a 'basic shell'. Admitedly it takes me back to the days of Lada's when even the speaker holes wernt even provided. Personally, i would buy a basic car, the only luxury would be a sunroof (no aircon), electric front windows and central locking. the less you have the less to go wrong (or the lighter to push).

If they could be adjusted i doubt Citroen would produce different lamps

Good advice.......put simply, the 'Extended Warranties you can purchase are a mechanical breakdown policy, they do not cover adjustments, service items or wear and tear. You, the customer are responsible for all stripping costs/investigation/diagnosis. When repair is known has to be reported to warranty company before reassembly. Warranty company may arrange to send an engineer before repair commences. Assuming they authorise the repair you may find they only pay £35 per hour labour rate...so you end up paying the difference. You mention injectors.......so assuming you have a problem with injectors, its unlikely they would pay for a set, after all they will breakdown one at a time. It wont cover consequential damage.......so assuming you have a coolant leak, pipes & radiator wont be covered due them being listed in excluded items, (interestingly the heater matrix might be covered providing the cause of failure isnt corrosion), your failed head gasket also wouldnt be covered......either because they will prove its consequential/lack of maintenance/driver error......how many lights do you need to come on before you will stop! Summing up.....lookat the policy.......if its a listed parts policy check the parts listed, also check excluded parts And a tip for anyone with an extended warranty, when you have a problem book it in immediately for that problem and that alone......dont think about the other half dozen jobs youve been meaning to get looked at under the warranty. Mechanical breakdown generally means something has stopped working or is working incorrectly and can be demonstrated to be faulty. If you put a claim in for several unrelated repairs and are unable to demostrate the fault you can guarantee the warranty company will try to wriggle out.

LHD Headlamps from Citroen UK (Who'd of thought of that?).....I expect they will have to put them on order but shouldnt take long to arrive......alternatively, now you have the part numbers have a hunt round the net 6205X2 HEADLIGHT ASSY136.03 GBP 6204X2 - HEADLIGHT ASSY - 136.03 GBP Ebay - might add that including postage they come out at £300 on ebay!!!

The Valves do contact the pistons if the belt snaps, the camshaft does break if the belt snaps, the camshaft bearing caps do crack if the cambelt snaps......you will need a new head if the cambelt snaps! Its unlikely you will be lucky......expect the worse!

Could be in the clue that the cheaper ones are the rubber inserts......not only does the rubber deteriorate over time but the blade carrier also becomes worn and causes judder.

You dont say how old the C3 was.....if its older than 55 plate its a definite no, if its on a 55 plate maybe a yes, newer than 55 plate it should fit (but dont hold me responsible). Basically, C4 has multiplexed wiring that conforms to a standard we recognise as CAN-CAN. C3 on the other hand was originally developed with a system VAN-CAN and around 55 plate switched to CAN-CAN......as far as the stop start is concerned i cant remember when it was introduced and may only have been produced with CAN-CAN.....if you have the chassis number for your C3 PM it to me and i'll see what it tells me. Alternatively Iannez will probably be along shortly. An update: Just had a look on both C4 & C3 parts lists......there are around 9 different part numbers in total to choose from, i woud recommend against trying to fit the C3 unit into the C4, there is obviously a reason why they have all these choices and the saving to be made by 'seeing if it will work' will be far less than the cost of consequential damage if it doesnt.

send me your chassis number in a PM and i'll send you a link to some info

Switching on the radio The switching on of the radio is done by one of the following actions : Simple press on the "ON / VOL" button on the radio control panel Cutting or switching on of the ignition Insertion of a CD when the ACC+ is present ( radio RD2 only) N.B. : If the radio is operating prior to the cutting of the ignition, it comes back on when ACC+ is restored . Stopping of the radio Assuming the radio is on, one of the following actions will switch it off : Simple press on the "ON / VOL" button on the radio control panel Cutting of the ignition N.B. : If the radio can no longer communicate with the multifunction screen via the Comfort VAN network, it switches off automatically . Resupply without the ignition being on If the radio is off with the ignition cut, it is possible to switch it back on by simply pressing the "ON / VOL" button on the radio control panel . If the radio has been resupplied with the ignition cut, it can be switched off by one of the following actions : Manual switching off : Press the ON / OFF button Automatic switching off (economy mode) : The radio is switched off 60 minutes after the engine is switched off . After the timer, the engine has to be restarted in order to be able to supply the radio again Could be worth checking to see if you have 12v at the radio connector: black connector pin 4, supplied by fuse 20 black connector pin 7, supplied by fuse 11 Also make sure the shunt fuse is in the correct place shunt fuse = SH (or HS if viewed upside down)

Many years ago had problems with one of these......thought it was manifold pressure sensor but turned out it was cambelt had stripped 4 teeth and the valve timing was out. Considering the constant roadtesting that was carried out in trying to diagnose the problem it was suprising we didnt wreck a set of valves......but you can say these things with hindsight. So...........question iwould ask is why did the manifold sensor get replaced and when they replaced it did it give the reading they then expected?.......i'd get the valve timing checked. Missfires & poor running......suprising how many people jump into the engine management system without checking that everything is mechanically ok.

If your reffering to brake noise when in reverse, you will indeed find it's no longer covered by warranty. Citroen advised UK dealers of this at the end of February.

The rear parking sensors as offered on the desire are an optional factory fit extra at point of vehicle build. Any parking sensors fitted to the berlingo after build should be considered an accessory. I'm not aware of the Factory fit sensors giving a visual indication however companies such as Valeo produce kits with audible/visual sensing....the diplay ussually clips above the mirror.

Suggest you pop down your local citroen dealer and have a look at the mirror assy on there computer......looks like the motor assy is available, though i doubt they would have it in stock. Cost, about £35.00.....so worth the effort.

Have sent you a PM

Are you talking about the mechanics handbook?

When i was a lad...........we yearned for more oomph, those that had the money would get something with 15watts per channel......some 'car radios (we didnt call them ICE then) were still in mono, a bit flasher you would get a graphic equalizer with amp to stick in line with your speakers....and a bass boost button.....and a better model would allow the connection of 4 speakers (wow (sorry wow is what the tape did & flutter)) Outside the car you would have the longest whip aerial available......it went from front wing to rear qtr light glass and made from fibreglass would have any pedestrians eye out should it decide to flick up. Some cassette players would have auto reverse, most of them hissed at you and chewed up tapes. Radio reception was poor.....never could get to grips with turning the trimmer screw to improve medium wave reception......FM, which was new for cars drifted in and out, probably not helped by the long aerial mounted on the biggest rust patch possible on the wheel arch. Dunno how old some of you are but the radio was a means to cover up the various noises made by worn components, wind noise, a whining differential and a gearbox that should have been given the last rites. Oh how car technology has improved......6 speakers, decent volume, bass and treble controls, automatic tuning, steering wheel controls, CD player, Traffic Announcements..........looks like its supposed to be in the car........and there still not happy ......tell ya what, i got an audioline graphic equalizer going cheap, with a couple of wedge shaped parcel shelf speakers i'm sure i've got the whip aerial too somewhere :rolleyes: Whatever people have they will always want more......Have you seen the funky hearing aids people can get these days......obviously designed for those of us who always want something better......they cost several thousand pounds and give much better sound quality than the old beige ones our grand parents used to have......i suppose they will come with attachments for ipods soon if public demand is great enough......but you cant have one unless your Deaf! And before anyone takes this personally i'm having a laugh........but there is truth in it.

If you have had an engine management light come on it can do so for many reasons, and not necesarilly for the reason mentioned in its message. A lot of the computers share sensors and other information, so for instance, it isnt unusual for a message to come up that says 'ABR/ESP fault' at which point the engine may go into limphome mode, the point is it may be nothing to do with the ESP causing the problem but because the engine ecu has picked up a fault it has an affect on the operation of the ESP and operates in a downgraded mode. So........get it booked in somewhere to read the engine management faults, i would recommend a main dealer for this as small independent garages are unlikely to have equipment that will read ALL the computers, and thus may miss the true reason for the fault. Removing the catalytic convertor is unlikely to make the problem go away. In fact it is probably the least likely component to cause problems.

Seen your message......can you send a PM with what your thinking of doing........will answer this a bit later