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Sounds like another result for the forum :blink:

If there orange wires with brown connectors i'd guess there the seat belt pretensioner wires (part of the airbag circuit).

Wouldnt it be great if all drivers had a diagnostic socket so we could download the latest information, force them to relearn there driving style and check them for faults. How many 'no faults found' do you think we would get or do you think there would be a major recall? .

Your dealer is correct in saying that the ECU adapts to your driving style, whether the problem is with your driving style or the vehicle though is another matter. I know of several customers who drive as you put it 'light footed' and have complained of hesitations at certain revs, interestingly though never of fuel economy problems.....and as per your experience, reinitialising the computer resolves the issue for a week or so. A characteristic i'm afraid.

I think before you go any further it may benefit you to get the engine speed sensor checked or replaced. If i remember correctly the cost of the sensor is about £20.......if you have a spare £20 could be worth giving it a go before you invest hard earned cash in a diagnostic check.....obviously if moneys a bit tight at the moment you may be better off booking for the diagnostic and hoping they dont tell you its the sensor.

Have you changed the radio recently?.....i seem to remember in the dim and distant past that the fuse fitted as standard is a little underpowered if you buy a more powerfull radio!.....the fuse blows when you turn the radio volume up! Ok.....so i didnt read the question..... Has it still got standard saxo lamps? or aftermarket 'lexusstyle' lamps?, has it got big wheels and no wheel arch liners (wet boot floor).....if so the wiring connectors corrode to the lamps. Have any bulbs been fitted to the rear lights recently....were they the correct size? If he disconnects the rear lamps and puts car into reverse does the fuse blow? Has any work been done in the engine bay (clutch/airfilter) and trapped the reverse light wiring. Some suggestions......let us know how you get on.

Ok......so the first thing i would say is Fuse 15 is supplied by Fuse 8 in the same fuse box....is there power at fuse 8? yes?.....then something isnt energising the relays in the underbonnet fuse box. Is the engine management light coming on?....if no would be worth checking power feeds to ECU. Has the vehicle been through any deep water?.....might be worth checking the engine speed sensor on the gearbox for water contamination......if the fuel injection computer doesnt get a signal from the engine speed sensor it wont know when to spark/inject. If you need further help it would be usfull to know what engine were talking about and whether its a Bosch/magneti mareli/siemens system (written on the ECU)

go find yourself a faily powerfull magnet (an old speaker one), place it close to the instrument panel casing and carefull (without scratching the dash) using the magnetic field move the needle anti clockwise......it takes a bit of patience but can be done without stripping anything down. Incidentally, as you have already found out, jump starting modern cars can have its risks.....lost count of the number of injection ecu' s damaged by jump starting.

The brakes on my Multispace are more than adequate, but then i dont have the need to rush everywhere, and i do try to anticipate the other idiots on the road.

Lower suspension & release (1 full turn) the 12mm bleed bolt. As for the size of the sphere, who knows, but it probably is right if they say so, if in doubt get a refund and buy one from a citroen dealer. Should be noted that the bleed bolt should not be removed, if you do you will loose the ball bearing under it!

If it was over the door sills it was definately too deep......you needed a boat!

have a look in the tray under the drivers seat, see if the box is there.....cant honestly say that i have ever been asked this question or had to move them, but my gues would be if there are any screws thats where you will find them

I would suggest you book it into your dealer and demonstrate the noise to them.....8 months old you need to get it looked at under warranty.

I wish you luck

if it ticks once every 45 seconds i wouldnt wory about it, if it ticks evertime you touch the brake pedal i suggest you get the Accumulator sphere checked or the regulator assy. The Accumulator sphere is mounted between the engine and radiator and looks the same as the suspension spheres.

I will assume from your comments, and correct me if i'm wrong.....but you unscrewed the 12mm head bleed screw fully from the pressure regulator and fluid came out of the hole.....correct? So........have you found the ball bearing yet?......the bolt you removed holds a bearing in place and thats what blanks off the bleed hole.......no bearing & it wont blank off & the suspension wont rise. The bearing part no is 0217.10, (or at a guess i believe you will find its 7mm in diameter)

The door latch is a sealed unit you wont get into it......or if you do the rest of the mechanism will probably pack up.

So is the abs light staying illuminated?

if you want to find out how far it will go with the light on, go get a gallon of fuel and carry it round in the boot till the car conks out! The object of the warning lamp isnt to give tank range, its a warning that you are going to run out of fuel and should have filled up already. in the same question you could ask "how long will the engine run after the oil light comes on?", now i realise the effects are more detremental, but you wouldnt do it, would you? PS: I do remember an occasion where a customer rung me up and had a coversation with me about the 'stop' light that was blinding them on the dash.....the customer had been travelling through london and as it wasnt affecting the way the engine ran so didnt feel inclined to do what the car was indicating. They travelled 5 miles before the brakes failed completely....at which point i would imagine the customer was shouting 'stoppppp' at the car......in this occassion the hydrualic system had failed.

Assuming the micro switch isnt making contact it isnt repairable, new unit i'm afraid. Before you go spending money you really need to make sure its the micro switch causing the problem.......if you disconnect the harness at the door does the light go out on the dash?

If you have a message telling you the doors open i would suspect either wiring to that door or the latch assy in the affected door. The micro switch (not replaceable) that operates the door open warning is built into the latch....this sends a signal to the BSI and that in turn illuminates the light on the dash.

Ignition coil fits directly to the spark plugs......it doesnt have leads......it runs across back of engine....probably got a grey connector on it.

to get an instant fix so you can just lock it i would unscrew the wiring harness from either of the front doors where it enters between the hinges (big round connector that twists undone). While your there.....i'm assuming the car has sudenly decided to come up with a fault of not locking....in which case it might be worth peeling the rubber boot back at the harness and see if you have a broken wire or two.

Send me a PM i'll give you a link to where you can download some data

At 40,000 km this will be the 1st time the plugs, and air filter have been replaced if your not going to replace them you wont really be giving it a service....you will be waiting for problems to occur and the fuel economy to become worse. The Pollen filter is replaced every service and will become blocked in time which will reduce the efficiency of your airconditioning/heating system. Oil and filter......well you replace it, say no more So do those part require replacement.....depends if your going to do the job properly or not. As far as checking the diagnostic codes on the vehicle, you would need a code reader to carry this out. If the vehicle is running normally with no warning lamps flashing you may be able to do without this part of the service, however, its suprising how many times we find a fault recorded even though the customer isnt complaining of anything. With regard to the cost of service £300 every 20,000km...If your service improved your miles per gallon how much would you save?