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Everything posted by paul.h
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Rear Doors And Boot Won't Open.central Locking Not Working.
paul.h replied to smitty248's topic in Problems and Fixes
Check in the car handbook but when using the door locks with the key, 1 or 2 turns may do a deadlock and possibly 2 or 1 turn does not. Using a key fob on some older cars (C3) one push of the remote lock button does a deadlock but 2 does only a lock. On most later cars 2 pushes of the fob lock button are needed to do a deadlock. A Citroen dealer will sell the right barrels if you use your car VIN. -
C8 Yr2004 Petrol - Battery Drain After 3 Days
paul.h replied to mofazhasan's topic in Technical Section - C8
7mA current draw when the car is not being used is negligible and will take months to flatten the battery. When you consider the battery may be about 75Ah and to remove 7mA would take about 10000 hours. It is most likely the battery is at the end of its life and needs replacing and if it is still the original then you have been lucky it has lasted 11 years since anything more than about 4 is good. -
On our 1.6 hdi C4 the egr valve runs a bit after the engine is switched off to help keep it clean and that can be heard but I have never noticed it at other times. On the C5 the suspension pump will run if the car is not at the right level when the doors are unlocked or opened and you get in/out and close a door and I hear this on our 2007 C5 but I have not noticed other noises from the engine area and inside the cabin the heater flaps can be heard doing something and the sat nav hard disc running.
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Our dealer charges about £40 for a brake fluid change. You need to make sure it is bled out through all the bleed screws and that the clutch is also bled since I suspect this could be easy to miss. £10 for fluid seems a bit high, only 1 litre should be needed and costs about £6 but the total cost is still reasonable so not worth arguing about.
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Next check is probably the brake pedal switch and if this is correctly located and working then the wiring/connectors/corrosion on the bulb holders. Did you check to see if there is a good earth at the lights and if there is a 12 volt supply at the bulbs when the brake pedal is held down and the engine is running ?
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Hi I Have A Stop Light Showing On The Dash Whats Wrong
paul.h replied to mr pj monteith's topic in New Member Introduction
When checking the lds level with the car suspension at its lowest, was the fluid level up to the bottom of the tank filler strainer ? If yes then it does not need any more and do not put in too much since overfilling could cause the tank to split. As well as the engine oil, coolant and brake fluid level checks, you should also check the brake pads at the front are not worn down since these have wear sensors. Is the engine temperature gauge showing a normal value approx half way ? Are there any warning messages or any of the other warning lights on such as the battery light or oil pressure light or brake warning light ? Do the warning lights all work when the ignition is first switched on to show that a bulb has not failed and you are missing a warning ? -
If you do not already have sat nav installed there are many other parts needed and something like a Tomtom or Garmin will be a lot cheaper, have a look at this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22325-installing-c-crosser-incar-entertainment-system/
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I have one of these eezibleeders but have given up using it since it is too much bother. Early on I stopped filling up the container with brake fluid since if the cap was not air tight it would blow brake fluid out and over the car, the fluid is contaminated after being in the container so should not be put back in the original bottle, the bottle would need cleaning out if fluid was put in it, however with filling the container it would need frequent disconnecting to fill up the reservoir. Also the tyre pressure has to be let down before bleeding and then pumped back up again, it does not work very well to bleed the clutch which should also be done when the brake fluid is replaced, any air bubbles in the fluid are compressed by the pressure and made smaller so may not be bled out easily, I was always worried the pressure could cause the reservoir to split since it will bulge when the pressure is applied. I now prefer to use a Mityvac brake bleeder which sucks the fluid out through the bleed screws. When replacing the fluid it can be used to suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir, by using vacuum any air bubbles are made larger and should be easier to remove, it works well on the clutch. Only problems are the standard fluid container to catch the old brake fluid is a bit small needing frequent emptying and air can leak around the threads on the bleed screws. A larger container is available but I made a larger container about 300 ml out of a plastic air tight container with bleed screws fastened to the screw top lid and hoses held on these with small hose clips. It has also been used on the C3 to help remove air from the coolant bleed screws when filling with coolant. The one I have is a Mityvac 6820 which still seems to be available and as well as vacuum it can produce a pressure which I have previously used when setting up a Saab turbo. If you have a decent capacity air compressor you can also get vacuum bleeders that use an air supply to create a vacuum from such as Draper.
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Possibly the jolting when braking may be due to play/wear in the suspension but if the brakes are a bit seized and need cleaning they may not be applying smoothly to slow the car down. I think new brake pads have about 12 mm of friction material on them and not 7 mm as you have noted. When switching the engine off I would suspect suspension wear would not cause any jolting since the car is not moving.
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How many miles/years is it since the timing belt was last changed since the interval is the first of 10 years or 80k miles if Citroen parts are fitted ? If other makes of parts are used then the interval could be different. If they were not Citroen parts do you know what make they were ?
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The Citroen price does not seem correct. To fully top up the eolys fluid will need about 2½ to 3 litres although some cars have the additive in a pouch that is replaced. The labour time is about 1 hour for the filling plus about 20 minutes for the diagnostic to reset the additive counter so the low additive message will not be given again until the level is low once more. If you are not going to fill up with the 3 litres then the reset will need to reflect how much is actually put in. So for 3 litres and 80 minutes labour you would expect a cost of about £200 unless you live in an area where labour rates are high such as London - if so try getting a price from a dealer in a different town.
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If when you slowly raise the clutch pedal to the biting point and the car then judders, I would think the clutch is in need of replacement. However, you could leave it until it gets that bad that the car becomes difficult to control when setting off. If you have a dmf then that may also be part of the problem if it is worn. How many miles has the car done ? You could also try bleeding the clutch master and slave cylinders in case old dirty fluid is making it worse. This should be done anyway every 2 years when the brake fluid is replaced.
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The following is from a 2008 handbook saying the low level message is given at about 7 litres left so your 10 litres unless measured may not be accurate. It is also spread out over a flat surface so the depth of fuel will not be much and going up/down a hill may starve the pick up to the pump with a risk of damaging the pump so I would be reluctant to run at very low levels. Fuel low warning lamp When the tank is full, all the bars are lit up. If the fuel low warning lamp comes on accompanied by a beep and a message on the multifunction screen, there are approximately 7 litres of fuel remaining in the tank and 2 or 3 bars flash in the instrument panel. When the last bar goes out, there are approximately 2 litres of fuel remaining in the tank.
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You will need to turn the engine with a spanner on the aux belt pulley bolt whilst pushing in the 6mm rod until it goes in to the hole on the flywheel. I had a look at a photo I took of our 2003 1.4 75 bhp petrol C3 when I replaced the timing belt and could not see any timing marks on the crank pulley so I had marked it with white paint against the housing as well as using a bolt to lock the cam pulley and the 6mm rod in the flywheel. In this position though there is a stamp on the crankshaft timing belt pulley front face with a 2 on it and this is at or close to the bottom of the pulley when all locked in place and is half way between 2 of the 3 bolt holes for the aux belt pulley. So as a start you could turn the engine so one of the aux belt pulley bolts is at the top and then see if the 6mm rod fits in the flywheel, if not turn the engine to the next bolt at the top and try again, if not then try the last bolt at the top.
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Welcome to the forum. I would lock the flywheel as noted in the Haynes manual but you can bend a length of 6mm threaded bar to fit in the hole on the block and through it to the hole in the flywheel but until you have it bent accurately it is a bit awkward due to a web on the block that gets in the way. The straight bit to go in the hole needs to be about 35mm long. Then see if the cam timing is still correct.
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Citroen C5 2003 1.8 16V Engine Running After Key Removed
paul.h replied to wpeter's topic in C5 - Technical
I am not sure but a key symbol on the dash could mean the battery in the key fob needs replacing. You could check this using the spare key fob. How many miles has the car done, just trying to think what could cause the engine to run without any sparks if the ignition has switched off and one thought is the engine needs a decoke. The fuel pump would also need to keep running though. -
Hi I Have A 2001 Hdi My Washers Arnt Working
paul.h replied to gerard's topic in Berlingo - Technical
Welcome to the forum. Possibly the washer pump or its wiring/connector is faulty and needs replacing/cleaning/repairing but if you can hear it running then the water tank could need cleaning to remove any mould bockages to the pump. Also check the washer jets are not blocked using a pin in the holes. -
Rear Wiper Doesnt Come On When Car Is In Reverse Gear C4 Plus 1.6 Hdi
paul.h replied to arak81's topic in C4 - Technical
You just need to have the front wipers switched on and wiping, then select reverse gear and the rear wiper will do an intermittant wipe. It is also on our C5 as well as the C4 so is a normal feature of Citroens. If you find it does not work then have a look for broken wires in the wiring between the tailgate and the body since it is a common failure point. In case you do not have the car handbook you can read/copy/print (in sections) it from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ -
Rear Wiper Doesnt Come On When Car Is In Reverse Gear C4 Plus 1.6 Hdi
paul.h replied to arak81's topic in C4 - Technical
This is from page 18 of the handbook for a 2006 C4 so are you checking for the rear wiper when the front ones are working ? Automatic operation This function is active when the windscreen wipers are operating and you engage reverse gear. Activation / deactivation of this function is possible in the menu "Personalisation - Configuration"of the "Main menu". Deactivation may be necessary when a bicycle-carrier is installed on the tailgate. -
The eurocarparts PAT fluid price at about £32 a litre is from memory similar to the eolys fluid price that has been posted on here previously.
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Maybe an engine mounting is worn but possibly the dual mass flywheel is worn.
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Citroen C5 2003 1.8 16V Engine Running After Key Removed
paul.h replied to wpeter's topic in C5 - Technical
Welcome to the forum. When you turn the key off does the dash remain lit up suggesting the ignition switch is stuck or maybe a relay ? I think that part is the throttle body which controls the amount of air in to the engine. During normal maintenance the inlet duct to it should be removed and the throttle plate cleaned using something such as carburettor cleaner or a cloth soaked in turps/white spirit to remove any carbon build up. Whether or not the noise is normal I do not know but if it has only just started doing it then see if the plate is sticking and needs a clean. With the engine management light on there will be a fault code that will indicate what is wrong. Possibly the new fault may have given a new code but since the light was already on you would not have noticed. You need to use a code reader to check this, they are not expensive and one with live data is of more use than just a code reader such as this one from Gendan https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html -
If you check the car tyre sticker you should find the recommended tyres are 93W but on the parts diagrams for a reinforced tyre it is 97W. Maybe this new tyre is not available in a W speed rating. Using the originally recommended tyre ratings came up in a previous topic and how an insurer would look on it if there was a claim. I read in a Caravan Club magazine that winter tyres need to have more tread to work well so should be replaced at 3 mm or more and in some countries this is required. Maybe this would apply to these new tyres.
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If it was not for the foot vents getting hot, you might think a temperature sensor is faulty but to check would need a diagnostic or just replacing the part. On one of the C5 sections is a pinned post of members able to help with diagnostic checks so you could see if one is near you.
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Have a read of this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22766-air-blower-not-kicking-out-much-air/