paul.h

This is often done through the menu button on the radio. I can not remember our mark 1 C5 though to be sure for your car. It will also be in the car handbook.

You could try a drop of oil or wd40 on its pivot.

There is a new topic on the C3 section which may be worth keeping an eye on - another case of a battery going flat http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22310-c3-draining-battery-please-help/?do=findComment&comment=82428 I had to replace the battery on our C5 a few weeks ago since that was on its last legs, it seemed to charge up quickly but did not have enough capacity to start the car if not used for a couple of weeks. Demand for new batteries increases a lot in cold weather since this can kill off a borderline one. If the drain was 40 times normal then if normal is around 10mA, that gives about 0.5 amps, equivalent to 6 watts - so you could check if any bulbs are not going out - boot, any glove boxes. If it has an alarm you could check if its battery is ok and not needing constant charging.

Welcome to the forum. Why did you replace the alternator and battery ? We had a 2003 1.4 petrol and when the battery voltage was low it would do 3 peeps when starting. Somewhere in the handbook it gives a list of the things that this warning can be so there are other possibilites than a low battery which might include the key needing a new battery. Citroens do odd things when the battery is low such as the headlights flashing and wipers moving so you can ignore the lights. The fact the car starts suggests the immobiliser is ok. At idle the battery voltage should still be about 14.5 volts so you could check if the auxiliary belt driving the alternator is in good condition and correctly tensioned so not slipping. Also check the connections on the battery are tight and giving a good connection as well as the earth connections to the body and engine/gearbox. Also check the cables are in good condition. Check the connection at the alternator is ok, fastened and its pins are clean. If there is no improvement at idle then the alternator could be faulty, despite being new - or it may be the wrong one and giving a lower output than the car needs (a member had this on a C5).

Welcome to the forum, what year is your car ? Did you have any problems before you fit this battery, just in case it is a faulty battery despite the tests done on it ? When checking the battery drain, you need to do it about 5 minutes after removing the ignition key and closing the doors since it takes time for the car bsi to shut down since this will be taking power and the process of measuring the drain may stop the bsi shutting down. So it may be possible the drain test could have given a false reading. Do you have any accessories on the car which are not original such as a phone charger, sat nav, towbar, different radio or alarm ?

It is worth bearing in mind, if you do not need an estate, the hatchback still has a large boot and the internal space for people is the same. The hatchback is probably a lower price and there may be more available.

Welcome to the forum, you are in the right place for any advice on your C5 since there are many owners here. The exhaust diesel particulate filter has a few different names - DPF(S) - diesel particulate filter (system) - the S since Citroen sometimes add it in their brochures to give DPFS. - FAP - Citroen sometimes use this French term - Filtre a particules. - particle filter - in the Citroen Maintenance and Guarantee guide that comes with the car. - diesel particle filter - Citroen have used this in the handbook with our 2007 C5.

Thankyou for all your posts, you are adding a lot to the knowledge on the forum. It is refreshing to have an experienced technician on the site since most of us are amateurs doing our best with our limited experience gained through diy servicing/repairs. I wish you a speedy recovery but then expect you will not have as much time for the forum.

Welcome to the forum. Which engine do you have ?

For the speedo, put a bit of glue in the needle socket when you fit it again - I had to do this when the needle dropped down a bit and found a slight split in the needle. I used some wood glue since it was all I had that was runny enough to go into the needle socket that fits over the shaft. I fit the needle back with the speedo plugged in and the engine running so it was at 0 mph. The digital readout bit may need replacing - somebody else may confirm this. 1. Clicking - if you had climate control air con it could be a flap motor but I suspect you have manual air con. Possibly it could be something in the cabin fan or air inlet. Maybe you could remove the pollen filter and see if it is full of leaves and also try to vac out where it is located. 2. The information panel - I am sure I have read on here that you can fit the dual line one and it will work. Coastline taxis is our expert on this so you could try a message to him.

The 2001 to 2004 2.0 hdi does not have a dpf, only the 2.2 hdi of this model year. The facelift 2004 to 2008 C5 diesels all have a dpf as does the 2008 on model. Beware of calling the C5 mark 1 or 2 or 3 since depending on who you talk to the mark 1 may be 2001 to 2004 or 2001 to 2008 so that the 2008 on model may be called mark 2 or mark 3. It is best to always include the model years. The 1.6 hdi at 123k miles may be coming up to its second dfp servicing - eolys top up every 75k miles and dpf clean/replacement every 87500 miles. Its timing belt is 10 years or 150k miles if sooner but if not already done it should be one of the first jobs to do. The earlier 2.0 hdi timing belt should already have been done since more than 10 years old. The 1.6 hdi is 110 bhp, the same as the 2001 to 2004 2.0 hdi and the 2004 to 2008 1.6 hdi car has similar kerb weight to the 2001 to 2004 2.0 hdi and performance data mpg/mph/acceleration/power and torque at rpms are all similar in the brochures so you could say it is not underpowered. The 1.6 hdi has better urban fuel economy which gives it the lower overall emissions . However, the 1.6 hdi it is prone to turbo failures at low mileages, especially if it does not have frequent oil/filter changes using the correct oil. If you buy one of these cars you need to check its service history since if the turbo goes you could be faced with possibly needing a new engine or even just a turbo will be many £100. This engine also has more frequent services so it may not necessarily be any cheaper to run. If you can it may be best to avoid the 1.6 hdi - it also has a reputation for failure on other makes of car, not just Citroens.

On the BBC radio 2 Jeremy Vine program 2/2/2015 vehicle modifications and insurers not paying out was discussed. It started with the case of a car that had the sump stolen and resulting engine damage and the insurer had agreed a payout but then saw a picture of the car which has religious stickers on it. They then refused to pay saying the stickers were a modification they had not been told about, even though it had no impact on causing the theft of the sump. There is a BBC article but on the radio the car owner gave more details than in the link http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-south-west-wales-31064998 Other people then phoned in. One refused payout was for a vehicle with a Chelsea football sticker which the insurer did not know about. Another was the owner of a motorbike who was knocked off by a car which had been repainted yellow but the car insurer refused to pay out since they did not know the car had been repainted - in this case though after lots of attempts to get paid, the bike owner then let on he worked for the BBC and the money was hand delivered the next day. Somebody then involved in the insurance business said you should declare any changes no matter how small including stickers, since the insurers will find anything to avoid paying. So even if a change has no possible cause to give a claim, the insurer can still refuse to pay out. In the case of a car that has had the dpf removed, you can get a good idea by looking at the end of the exhaust to see if it is covered in soot since I have found on our cars with a dpf the inside of the exhaust looks like clean metal. Most modifications do not cost extra on insurance. Last time I changed my insurance for the C5 I told them it was used for towing a caravan but then realised I had not specifically told them it had a towbar so did this on the renewal - it was no cost but now appears on the documents as a modification (Direct Line). On our C3 we had parking sensors fitted which we told the insurer about, again it was no extra cost and is mentioned in the documents but the small print says it is not covered if not an original fitting (Admiral).

Welcome to the forum. I would not worry about the 2 extra spheres underneath. On the 2001 to 2004 model 2.0 hdi there are 2 power options - 90 and 110 bhp but for such a heavy car you would want the 110 bhp. The 110 bhp has the best fuel economy so I do not understand why the 90 bhp was made. Ideally you should look at both cars if you have the choice. If you are going to use the car for towing a caravan the 2.2 hdi is heavier - estate kerb weight not inc 75 kg for driver - 90/110 bhp 2.0 hdi 1423 / 1438 kg - 2.2 hdi 136 bhp 1518 kg. The exclusive will have extra things such as rear parking sensors and esp which may make it a better car but being the 2.2 hdi it will use a bit more fuel 45 vs 50 mpg with higher car tax (CO2 - 90 /110 bhp 155/149 - 2.2 hdi 169 g/km giving £180 / 145 / 205) and it also has an exhaust particulate filter which needs servicing at about 70k miles costing a few £100 (dpf replacement/cleaning and eolys fluid topping up plus ecu reset). It is also possible the sx may not have air con. On the C5 Technical Section there is a pinned post of Common Problems to be aware of but you should ensure everything works and there are no leaks on the suspension.

If you ever got in to a legal dispute with the garage that is one thing but I suspect as the driver you are responsible for the car when using it. Did the garage explain what they were going to do ? If you sold the car you would also need to tell the prospective purchasers. You should tell your insurance company the dpf has been removed since you could find they will not want to insure you since the car would not be up to MOT standard or if they were not informed and you had to make a claim it could be rejected. Have a look at these topics http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20246-c4-paint-quality-2012-model/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21018-dpf-heres-the-start-of-it/

If you have only scratched it back to the black plastic, it is easy enough to paint it by rubbing down with wet and dry emery paper, mask off the surrounding area, spray primer a few coats and then colour coat and then laquer - probably about £20 - £30 for the paints from a car accessory shop. I did this on our last C3. When masking, if you have the masking tape edge folded back on itself at the area being painted so it is not stuck down, you do not get a paint ridge. I did consider getting a new insert from Citroen but then it would still need painting so would just add to the cost.

By early I think you mean ones from about 2007 when the speedo area was changed to a digital one. Our 2003 1.4 petrol C3 had the temp and fuel gauges which were 6 yellow bars that lit up as the temp or fuel tank level went up. Handbooks from 2007 for the C3 can be seen on the service.citroen site and in the 2007 one it shows the newer digital display with only a high temp warning light. In the 2009 on new C3 there is a blue warning light that goes out when the temp gets to about 50°C plus another high temp warning light. Our 2011 C4 only has a high temp warning light.

mkj has not been on the forum since 2009 so I suspect we will not get a reply.

Was the garage a Citroen dealer or a reputable one since what they have done has now made the car illegal by effectively removing the dpf. It should now fail the MOT.

Welcome to the forum. I have deleted your similar post on the temperature topic so any replies are all in one place, plus your problem is probably better to be a separate topic. I have also removed the same post from your profile feed. First thoughts are the thermostat is opening at too low a temperature - petrol should be 89°C (diesel 83°C) or there is a coolant leak. The top radiator hose should not start to get warm until the temperature gauge is near normal but if you had a code reader that gives live data you could see what the coolant sensor is giving. The radiator bottom hose should be colder than the top one. If there is no pressure in the expansion tank when the coolant is hot, have you checked for any leaks and if the coolant level has fallen. Also check the tank cap is on tight but it seals by an O-ring on the cap inside the tank neck. Possible leak points include a split in the tank, a hose connection, the water pump, the radiator, the heater matrix (in this case you may get a coolant smell in the cabin), the air bleed points/caps, a leaking head gasket (check the oil is not contaminated or there is not an excess of steam from the exhaust), a leaking engine block core plug, a crack in the engine block if the anti freeze strength is not high enough to prevent freezing. Did you have the same problems before replacing the thermostat, just in case the new one is faulty which would easily explain the cabin heater not giving hot air ? When you replaced the thermostat did you drain the coolant out ? The Haynes manual shows air bleed points on top of the radiator, an elbow on a heater hose next to the brake servo, on the top heater hose, on top of the box (Haynes call it coolant junction) at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. For the cabin heater not giving hot air, are the hoses to the matrix getting hot - if not then there may be an air lock in the hoses/matrix which could be removed by opening the bleed cap(s) on the hose(s) or it could be the thermostat is opening at too low a temperature (Haynes gives 89°C for the petrol engines and 83°C for diesel). If they are getting hot, then the warm air flap may not be moving - if you have manual air con this may be a cable problem or if climate control could be a flap motor or the flap spindle problem. Also make sure the air con is not running but this should be automatically prevented when below about 6°C anyway.

Always nice when a problem is sorted at no cost. To put photos on the forum they need to be on another site such as photobucket and then a link to them can be put on the post.

Welcome to the forum. Did you have cruise control on at the time ? It could be something such as a brake pedal switch or possibly a communication problem with the gearbox or a problem with the gearbox controls. You may be better at a Citroen dealer with their own diagnostic equipment than Halfords, so it may be worth asking about getting your car to one. If you have Relay with the AA or if you tell them the garage they took you to can not fix the problem, they may transport your car for you.

The C3 and C4 have handbrakes on the back.

The parts diagrams show the petrol filter is located on top of the fuel tank and from the eurocarparts site they are about £4.

The Citroen procedure and the parts diagrams do not show a bleed screw on the engine block/cylinder head but when you mentioned finding one I thought maybe there is one. I think it shows a small bore pipe from the top of the thermostat housing which should let air out of the cylinder head back to the expansion tank, so you could check this rises from the housing so air can go through it. From what you have said though and that the cylinder head gasket has not failed then I think everything is ok. You may find that in the morning things may have settled a bit and the level may need topping up, squeeze the hoses a bit more, see if any more air comes out of the bleed screw and the small bore pipe and then try the engine again. Over the next few days check the level again in case a bit more air comes out. When I replaced the coolant on the C3 that was incredibly slow to fill. I did not use a funnel to extend the height of the expansion tank filling neck but in the end applied vacuum to the bleed screws to suck the air out and this helped (with a Mityvac hand pump, I did not try sucking it out due to a/f being toxic). The thermostat will not open until it is up to temperature so unless it has a small bleed hole in it, the top hose will not get warm until it opens. The weather is a bit cold so this may not be helping it to warm up quickly and you could try with the bonnet closed. The cabin heater hoses though will get warm and if you have the cabin fan on you should get warm air blowing since the water pump will be sending the coolant round the engine block/cylinder head and heater matrix. If after running the engine for half an hour and if there was not any/enough coolant in the cylinder head then likely it would have already overheated and maybe caused the head gasket to fail - so probably ok here. If you got 9 litres in of ready mixed 50/50 and if there was already 2 litres left in the system of water from the flushing, then you have added 4½ litres of 100% a/f giving the final strength of about 41% which should be good enough. If you need to top up later it would be better to use 100% a/f, or the 50/50 but definately do not use more water.

Welcome to the forum. With the car stationary and then gradually increasing the revs, does the problem still happen - if so it could be the accelerator pedal electrics are worn. According to the Haynes manual it is held by 3 nuts and has a wiring connector to undo. If you have a code reader that does live data, you could check the pedal output to see if it increases gradually or if not, you could probably use a meter on the pedal electrical pins to see if the resistance gradually changes as the pedal is moved. A new pedal for a C3 1.4 petrol was about £50 2 years ago from a dealer.